• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.813-825
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• 2014

To maximize electric power production using wave energy extractions from resonance power buoys, the maximum motion displacement spectra of the buoys can primarily be obtained under a given wave condition. In this study, wave spectra observed in shoaling water were formulated. Target resonance frequencies were established from the arithmetic means of modal frequency bands and the peak frequencies. The motion characteristics of the circular cylindrical power buoys with corresponding drafts were then calculated using numerical models without considering PTO damping force. Results showed that the heave motions of the power buoys in shoaling waters with insufficient drafts produced greater amplification effects than those in deep seas with sufficient drafts.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

A numerical model for the transformation of irregular waves in a coastal area is developed, which takes account of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction and wave breaking. The governing equations are the usual energy conservation equation and kinematic conservation equations, but to consider the diffraction effects additional terms are included in the usual kinematic conservation or wave number equations. A linear superposition technique is used to represent the spectral formation. and an explicit formula is developed for the estimation of friction factor of irregular waves. A breaking criterion of component waves, which is the modified form of the Kitaigorodskii saturation relation, is employed to restrict the growth of shoaling waves in very shallow waters. The model was applied to a laboratory test and satisfactory agreement was obtained between the computation and measurement.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.619-627
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. We also considered the increase of water depth at the entrance channel by dredging work up to 15 meters depth in order to see the dredging effect. Among several model analyses, the nonlinear and breaking wave conditions are showed the most applicable results. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.217-225
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.161-167
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• 2022

Ocean waves passing through the underwater bar at a shallow depth experience a shoaling effect caused by decreasing water depth, a nonlinear interaction therein owing to steepening wave slope, and a wave dispersion effect as the water depth increases again. Because this problem includes many complicated phenomena, it is used as a good example of validating a theoretical development or a CFD method for ocean wave applications. Validation is performed mainly for regular waves by comparing the wave elevation patterns in the time domain with the experimental results. In this study, the spectral evolution of wave spectrum is investigated in the frequency domain when a CFD method such as OpenFOAM is applied for this problem. In particular, the effects of initial phase conditions as well as the nonlinear interaction among harmonic waves are studied.

• Ocean Science Journal
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.81-90
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• 2008

A study of estuarine flows during a neap tide was performed using 13-hour roving acoustic Doppler current profiles (ADCP) and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) profiles in the Altamaha River estuary, Georgia, U.S.A. The least-squared harmonic analysis method was used to fit the tidal ($M_2$) component and separate the flow into two components: the tidal and residual ($M_2$-removed) flows. We applied this method to depth-averaged data. Results show that the $M_2$ component demonstrates over 95% of the variability of observation data. As the flow was dominated by the $M_2$ tidal component in a narrow channel, the tidal ellipse distribution was essentially a back-and-forth motion. The amplitude of $M_2$ velocity component increased slightly from the river mouth (0.45 m/sec) to land (0.6 m/sec) and the phase showed fairly constant values in the center of the channel and rapidly decreasing values near the northern and southern shoaling areas. The residual flow and transport calculated from depth-averaged flow shows temporal variability over the tidal time scale. Strong landward flows appeared during slack waters which may be attributed to increased baroclinic forcing when turbulent mixing decreases.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.149-159
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• 1996

Multipurpose development of the coast and ocean can be considered as multifunction construction combining the functions of coastal protection, waterfront amenity and creation or rehabilitation of habitats. Multfunction development of coastal and ocean spaces can be accomplished by applying the ecosystem control structure of artificial habitats which will cultivate fishing ground with ecological harmony to the coastal protection system. To evaluate the applicability of ecosystem control structures as as fundamental coastal protection structure, wave control function of the structure is studied by numerical and physical analyses. Dimensional analysis and hydraulic experiment point out the importance of width and crest depth of ecosystem control structure, construction water depth and wave steepness. Wave control efficiency is estimated by the attenuation coefficient $(K_H)$ according to wave steepness $(H_0/L_0)$, relative constructed water depth $(h_i/H_0)$, relative berm width $(B/L_0)$ and relative crest depth $(h_B/H_0)$ of eosystem control structure. Empirical fomulas are suggested based on the results of model test by applying the multiple model based on this experimental results and numerical wave shoaling-dissipation-breaking model appears to be valid for the analysis of wave transformation around ecosystem control structure in the coastal waters.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.