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패션문화상품을 위한 텍스타일 디자인 개발 - 한국전통문양을 중심으로 - (Development of Textile Design for Fashion Cultural Products - Focusing on Traditional Korean Patterns -)

  • 현선희;배수정
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제31권6호
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    • pp.985-996
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    • 2007
  • 본 연구의 목적은 한국전통문양의 문헌고찰 및 활용 사례의 분석을 통해 활용되는 문양의 종류와 문양의 상징적 의미를 살펴보고, 패션문화상품의 전통문양활용 실태를 토대로 문양의 상징성을 적용하여 텍스타일 디자인을 시도함으로써 패션문화상품 디자인 개발에 발전적 인 방향을 모색하고자 하였으며, 패션문화상품을 위한 텍스타일 디자인 개발 프로세스는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 패션문화상품을 광범위한 패션의 일부로 간주하여 2005년부터 2007년까지 최근 3년 동안 S/S 시즌의 패션트렌드를 살펴보고 이를 반영한 컨셉을 설정하였다 둘째, 패션문화상품에 많이 활용되고 있는 문양을 중심으로 텍스타일 디자인을 위한 문양을 선정하였다. 셋째, 패션문화상품 디자인 개발을 위한 아이템을 선정하고, 전통문양의 상징적 의미에 따라 아이템의 문양을 선정하였다. 넷째, 텍스타일 디자인에 활용할 모티브를 발췌하여 패턴의 배열방법에 따라 전개하였다. 끝으로, 전개된 텍스타일 디자인은 텍스타일 CAD(Tex pro)와 Illustrator 10을 활용하여 아이템별 도식화에 적용하고, 이미지로 제시하였다. 이상과 같은 디자인 프로세스를 통하여 본 연구에서는 다음과 같은 결론을 얻을 수 있었다. 첫째, 전통문양을 이용한 패션문화상품 디자인은 전통 문양 의미적 측면 외에 문양에 내재된 상징적 의미를 적용함으로써 한국의 전통미의식에 대한 이해와 철학적 접근이 이루어 질 수 있다. 둘째, 전통공예품이나 민예품에 사용되어 오면서 소비자에게 진부한 문양으로 인식된 전통문양은 형태를 변형하거나 간결한 형태로 단순화하여 이미지를 강조하고, 트렌드를 반영한 스타일 및 색채의 적용으로 현대적 감각의 디자인으로 재창조될 수 있다. 셋째, 전통 문양을 응용한 디자인은 표현기법과 제작방법에 따라 다양한 이미지와 시각적 효과로 표현될 수 있으며, 이에 활용범위가 확대되어 다양한 아이템에 적용될 수 있다. 넷째, 패션문화상품에서의 전통문양은 우리 고유의 독창적인 디자인 요소로 활용될 수 있어 고부가가치 상품개발을 위한 디자인 영감의 원천으로 활용될 수 있다. 향후 전통문양을 응용한 문화상품개발을 위해서는 전통문양에 대한 이해를 토대로 다양한 접근과 시도가 이루어져 다양한 상품이 개발되어져야 할 것으로 본다.

미술의 공공성과 키스 해링(Keith Haring)의 사회적 개입에 관한 연구 (A Study on Art's Public Features and Social Intervention by Keith Haring)

  • 김지영
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제8호
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    • pp.59-87
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    • 2009
  • This thesis started from the attempt to make it clear that 80's American artist Keith Haring(1958-1990) had conducted social intervention of criticism, resistance, and participation through his works, and so pursued public value. Haring of graffiti fame left popular and familiar cartoon style pictures on the street wall, the billboards, the posters and so on. Popular and playful works was explained as his unique characteristics, but Haring's creative way at the field has more value than just being grasped as artist's personal characteristics. Haring's work pieces became everyday art by joining with people's life, and are working as a social speaking place. So I think that these Haring's art works possess characteristics of 'the public sphere'. 'The Public Sphere' means that is independent and free from the government or partisan economic forces, so that is not connected with the interested relations, and that is the sphere of rational argumentation without 'disguise' or 'fabrication', and that is the sphere where general public can participate in and is inspected by them. The public sphere between the sphere of public authority such a nation and a market and the private sphere of free individual, it is mutually connected with them and works as the space forming public opinion. Private individuals communicate with this public sphere and perform a role of direct and indirect check, balance, and social criticism way off from power. Openness that should include the voice of not only leading power but also the socially weak such as citizens, women, homosexuals, minority races, and so on, and alienated class, is an index of the public characteristics. The public sphere is not working just with speech and mass media. Many artists as well as Haring open their mouth and act through an art at the center of society, and create another public sphere by an art. I understood that the real participatory and practical characteristics on the Haring's work is a phenomenon and current of a part of the art world including Haring. Such current started from 1960s is the in-depth effort to be connected with the life more closely, to communicate with people, and to improve problems of life. And it has pursued public value on the different way from the nation or public power. Artists have intervened in the society with strategic and positive ways in order to raise pushed-out value and sinked rights as the public agenda, and labored to accept the value of variety and difference at the society. The aspect of such social intervention is the notable features, findable on the Haring's works and process. Haring's works include art historical meanings and are expressed with familiar and plastic language, so they were able to communicate with various classes. And he secured various customers at the field and the street. This communicative and public approach factor raised the possibility much for his works to work as the public sphere. Haring presented critical and resistant speech toward society with his works based on this factor. He asserted his position and justice of gender identity as a sexual minority. And his such work continued to movement for alienated class and social week over his own rights. His speech and message on the wall painting, poster, T-shirts, billboard of the subway, and so on worked as a spectacle and pressed concern with social issues and consciousness shift. And he's been trying to protect and care people who is injured by HIV and drug and to realize social justice through social week protection. Haring's works planned to meet many people as much as possible performed its role of intervening in society through criticism, resistance, speech, and participation, and controlling and checking social issues. These things considered, Haring's works show his consciousness about public attributes of art, and obviously include public value seeking. And also we can find the meaning of such his work as that an art is working as the public sphere and shows the possibility to discuss and practice public issues.

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