• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

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Measurement and Numerical Model for Wave Interation on Impermeable Steep Slopes (불투수성 급경사면 위의 파랑상호작용에 관한 수치모델 및 실험)

  • Kim, In-Chul;Ahn, Ik-Seong
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.22 no.5
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    • pp.44-51
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    • 2008
  • The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

Sea State Hindcast for the Korean Seas With a Spectral Wave Model and Validation with Buoy Observation During January 1997

  • Kumar, B. Prasad;Rao, A.D.;Kim, Tae-Hee;Nam, Jae-Cheol;Hong, Chang-Su;Pang, Ig-Chan
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.7-21
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    • 2003
  • The state-of-art third generation wave prediction model WAM was applied to the Korean seas for a winter monsoon period of January 1997. The wind field used in the present study is the global NSCAT-ERS/NCEP blended winds, which was further interpolated using a bi-cubic spline interpolator to fine grid limited area shallow water regime surrounding the Korean seas. To evaluate and investigate the accuracy of WAM, the hindcasted wave heights are compared with observed data from two shallow water buoys off Chil-Bal and Duk-Juk. A detailed study has been carried with the various meteorological parameters in observed buoy data and its inter-dependency on model computed wave fields was also investigated. The RMS error between the observation and model computed wave heights results to 0.489 for Chil-Bal and 0.417 for Duk-Juk. A similar comparison between the observation and interpolated winds off Duk-Juk show RMS error of 2.28 which suggest a good estimate for wave modelling studies.

The effect of small forward speed on prediction of wave loads in restricted water depth

  • Guha, Amitava;Falzarano, Jeffrey
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.305-324
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    • 2016
  • Wave load prediction at zero forward speed using finite depth Green function is a well-established method regularly used in the offshore and marine industry. The forward speed approximation in deep water condition, although with limitations, is also found to be quite useful for engineering applications. However, analysis of vessels with forward speed in finite water depth still requires efficient computing methods. In this paper, a method for analysis of wave induced forces and corresponding motion on freely floating three-dimensional bodies with low to moderate forward speed is presented. A finite depth Green function is developed and incorporated in a 3D frequency domain potential flow based tool to allow consideration of finite (or shallow) water depth conditions. First order forces and moments and mean second order forces and moments in six degree of freedom are obtained. The effect of hull flare angle in predicting added resistance is incorporated. This implementation provides the unique capability of predicting added resistance in finite water depth with flare angle effect using a Green function approach. The results are validated using a half immersed sphere and S-175 ship. Finally, the effect of finite depth on a tanker with forward speed is presented.

Wave Field Near a Vessel in Restricted Waterway

  • Kim, Chang-Je
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.35 no.7
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    • pp.557-562
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    • 2011
  • Shipwaves can have harmful effects on people who are using riverside and cause bank erosion, bank structures destruction in restricted waterways. The wave field near a vessel is consisted of a combination of a primary and secondary wave system in a shallow or restricted waterway. The water level depression(squat) and return current beside the hull are called the primary wave system. The secondary wave system, that is the wave height originates from a local disturbance point such as the bow of the ship. This study aims at investigating the characteristics of the wave field around a vessel in a restricted water in relation to navigation experimentally and theoretically. The return current and squat with a correction factor can be newly evaluated and the almost same high-sized wave heights take place on the whole waterway in a restricted water without regard to the distance from the sailing line.

An Experimental Study on the Wave-Cancelling Effects of Large Bulbous Bow on the Passenger Coaster (연안객선(沿岸客船)에 있어서 대형구상선수(大型球狀船首)가 조파저항감소(造波抵抗減少)에 미치는 영향(影響)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Zae-Geun,Kim
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.1-34
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    • 1967
  • The wave-cancelling effects of a large bulbous bow on the coastal passenger boat have been investigated in deep and shallow water. The following characteristics have been cleared through resistance tests with the model of the Korea standard type coastal passenger vessel(LWL=25.8m, B=5.5m, T=1.65m) equipped with large bulbous bows of various sizes. (1) Over the range of Froude Number 0.30, the wavemaking resistance coefficients decrease 30% or more. (2) The optimum location of bulb center is around 8% L from F.P. (3) On the 120 G.T. passenger coaster which has a speed corresponding to Froude Number 0.34, the most advantageous bulb is the one whose $a_0/L$ is about 0.28. When the speed is up, the bulb radius should be increased accordingly. (4) The large bulbous bows are effective in shallow water to a water depth of H/T=2.0. (5) Tendency to the increase in the resistance of the hull with large bulbous bow in the shallow water is generally smaller than that of the hull without bulb.

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Shallow Water Waves around Tokdo (독도 인근해역에서의 천해파)

  • 황연호;전인식;오병철;심재설
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2001.10a
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    • pp.117-121
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    • 2001
  • For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

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Development of the Combined Typhoon Surge-Tide-Wave Numerical Model Applicable to Shallow Water 1. Validation of the Hydrodynamic Part of the Model (천해에 적용가능한 태풍 해일-조석-파랑 수치모델 개발 1. 해수유동 모델의 정확성 검토)

  • Chun, Je-Ho;Ahn, Kyung-Mo;Yoon, Jong-Tae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.63-78
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    • 2009
  • This paper presents the development of dynamically combined Typhoon generated surge-tide-wave numerical model which is applicable to shallow water. The newly developed model is based on both POM (Princeton Ocean Model) for the surge and tide and WAM (WAve Model) for wind-generated waves, but is modified to be applicable to shallow water. In this paper which is the first paper of the two in a sequence, we verified the accuracy and numerical stability of the hydrodynamic part of the model which is responsible for the simulation of Typhoon generated surge and tide. In order to improve the accuracy and numerical stability of the combined model, we modified algorithms responsible for turbulent modeling as well as vertical velocity computation routine of POM. Verification of the model performance had been conducted by comparing numerical simulation results with analytic solutions as well as data obtained from field measurement. The modified POM is shown to be more accurate and numerically stable compare to the existing POM.

Levee Breach Flow by Experiment and Numerical Simulation (수리실험 및 수치모의를 이용한 제방붕괴 흐름해석)

  • Kim, Joo-Young;Lee, Jong-Kyu;Lee, Jin-Woo;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.44 no.6
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    • pp.461-470
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    • 2011
  • Abrupt and gradual levee breach analyses on the flat domain were implemented by laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. To avoid the reflective wave from the side wall the experiment was performed in a large domain surrounded by waterway. A numerical model was developed for solving the two-dimensional gradual levee breach flow. The results of the numerical simulation developed in this study showed good agreement with those of the experimental data. However, even if the numerical schemes effectively replicated the trends of the observed water depth for the first shock, there were little differences for the second shock. In addition, even though the model considered the Smagorinsky horizontal eddy viscosity, the location and height of the hydraulic jump in the numerical simulation were not fairly well agree with experimental measurements. This shows the shallow water equation solver has a limitation which does not exactly reproduce the energy dissipation from the hydraulic jump. Further study might be required, considering the energy dissipation due to the hydraulic jump or transition flow from reflective wave.

Experimental Study for Evaluation of Non-Linear Dispersive Wave Model in Shallow Water (천해역 비선형분산파랑 모델의 평가를 위한 수리 실험 연구)

  • 이중우;신승호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.189-196
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    • 1999
  • In order to verify a numerical model for the calculation of wave motion around an offshore barrier in shallow water, laboratory physical experiments are necessary. In this study, sample experiments are carried out on the wave and wave induced current fields due to a sloping bottom topography and on that due to an isolated structure from the coastline. The water body is divided into 4 levels, in which the current tracking floaters are deployed to measure the wave induced currents. Data measurement was continued using the limited wave gauges and current tracking floaters including a video camera from the top. The wave heights for the preselected surface and time-averaged velocity distributions at each level were measured in detail. The distribution of wave and current fields was analyzed precisely combining the whole measured laboratory data. Moreover, comprehensive analyses were carried out on non-linearity of wave transformation in terms of skewness and atiltness.

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Field Measurements of Wave Directionality in Water of Finite Depth

  • Memos, Constantine;Ziros, Athanassios
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.437-446
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    • 2003
  • Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.