• Title/Summary/Keyword: Sewing

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Characteristics of eco-friendly design in contemporary children's fashion collection (현대 아동복 컬렉션에 나타난 친환경 디자인 특성)

  • Lee, Soyeon;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.27 no.4
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    • pp.384-397
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the eco-friendly design characteristics of contemporary children's collections. Photos from FirstviewKorea were utilized for analysis; 29 brands were selected that included children's clothing collections featuring eco-friendly characteristics from 2007 to 2018. The results are as follows. First, naturalness was the most frequent characteristic of environmentally friendly children's collections. It was not conveyed in an eccentric way in any season, showed a relatively uniform distribution, and was seen in various ways, including printed on the fabric and expressed in $appliqu\acute{e}s$ and embroidery. Second, handcrafted features frequently changed according to seasonal trends. Various methods such as beading, embroidery, applique, sewing techniques, and handbags were used, which enhanced manual workability, discrimination from other designs. Third, traditionality is divided into the characteristics of ethnicity and revivalism. National traditions were expressed in the clothing and reflected the current generation while connecting to the past. Fourth, simplicity appeared in classic designs such as simple silhouettes, sparse decoration, natural colors, and comfortable dress length that is not tight on the body. Simplicity was not a frequent feature due to the characteristics of the children's clothing collections. Fifth, playfulness functioned to enhance the children's clothing's wear frequency. Although it was the least frequent of all the characteristics, it seemed to increase the design fun and the clothing's value by fusing with other characteristics such as handcraftedness and naturalness.

An analysis of the construction elements of the "oversized" look in fashion collection since 2015 (2015년도 이후 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 오버사이즈 룩의 의복구성 특성 분석)

  • Kim, Kyung-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.433-448
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    • 2019
  • Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates "big" looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the "Big" look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

Development of the Splint Manufacturing Process Using Indirect Coating and Roll Bonding (간접 코팅과 롤 접합을 이용한 의료용 스플린트 제작 및 공정기술 개발)

  • Ha, Kyoung-Ho;Kang, Dae-Min;Lee, Jung-Hee;Kwak, Jae-Seob
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2019
  • With the increase in number of the athletic population and elderly demographic, the demand for orthopedic splints, which are used to support a damaged body, has rapidly increased. Current splints mainly consist of inner and outer parts, which are multiple fabrics covered with polyurethane and nonwoven fabrics, respectively. However, the laminated materials with directly applied pre-polymer coating lead to a high defect rate because of the uneven thickness on the surface. Thus, this study proposes an indirect coating method using a precise clearance controller, which enables the even application of the coating material on multiple inner parts while maintaining a constant thickness. In addition, a roll-to-roll (R2R) technique is applied instead of the sewing mechanism to bond the inner and outer materials together and enhance the productivity in the final stage. In the advanced methods, there is a storage tank that contains polyurethane, a clearance controller, and pairs of rollers in the upper and lower rows. To improve the quality of the products and optimize the equipment, three controllable factors are determined: the viscosity of polyurethane, angle of the gap controller and number of pairs of rollers in the R2R system.

A study on the visual image of men's suit (남성 정장 수트의 시각적 이미지에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.113-127
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    • 2021
  • This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

A study on traditional Korean pillow manufacturing methods - On the restoration of Jatbagae and Yukgolbegae - (한국 전통베개의 제작법에 관한 연구 - 잣베개와 육골베개 재현을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Young Ae;Park, Sun Mi
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.105-116
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    • 2021
  • Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.

Cloud-based Artificial Intelligence Fulfillment Service Platform in the Urban Manufacturing Cluster in Seoul (서울시 도심제조업 집적지에서의 Cloud 기반 인공지능 Fulfillment 서비스 Platform 연구)

  • Kim, Hyo-Young;Park, Dea-Woo
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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    • v.26 no.10
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    • pp.1447-1452
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    • 2022
  • Seoul Special City, one of the world's top 10 cities and Metro City, has traditional urban manufacturing industries such as printing, sewing, and mechanical metals. Small business owners in these manufacturing clusters have developed in the form of mutual assistance. Due to the nature of the agglomeration site, each process is handled by an individual company. It is difficult for relatively small business owners to prepare order processing services that provide real-time logistics movement information between processes. This paper collects and analyzes existing logistics data for smooth order and delivery of small business owners in package manufacturing and special printing fields We design an artificial intelligence Fulfillment Service Platform system with CRNN, k-NN, and ID3 Decision Tree Algorithm. Through this study, it is expected that it will greatly contribute to increasing sales and improving capabilities by allowing small business owners in integrated areas to use individual orders and delivery customized services through the Cloud network.

Artificial Intelligence Fulfillment Service Platform in Small Business Areas (소상공인 집적지에서의 인공지능 Fulfillment 서비스 Platform 연구)

  • Kim, Hyo-young;Park, Dea-woo
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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    • 2022.05a
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    • pp.219-221
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    • 2022
  • Seoul Metropolitan City, the world's top 10 cities and Metro City, has traditional urban manufacturing industries such as printing, sewing, and mechanical metals. These manufacturing industries have developed in the form of mutual assistance by forming small business clusters according to detailed industries and processes. Due to the nature of the cluster, logistics between companies for each process in the cluster are being carried out quickly, but it is difficult for relatively small small business owners to prepare order processing services for consumers of finished products. Therefore, it is urgent to introduce an integrated order fulfillment service platform for collective business owners for smooth order and delivery processing. In this paper, we collect and analyze the existing Fulfillment Service data of small business owners in the printing industry among traditional urban industries, and design an artificial intelligence Fulfillment Service Platform system applying CRNN, k-NN, and ID3 Decision Tree algorithm. Through this study, it is expected to greatly contribute to the increase in sales and capacity of small business owners by enabling the use of individual orders and customized delivery services that can be used by any small business owner in the cluster.

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A Study of Fashion Design Applying a 3D Print Polymer-Fabric Structure (3DP 폴리머-패브릭(3D Print Polymer-Fabric Structure)을 적용한 패션디자인 연구)

  • Soyung Im;Jaehoon Chun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.139-152
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    • 2023
  • Despite efforts to apply 3D print (3DP) technology in the field of fashion and endless discussions about the possibility of future development, in reality, it is difficult to utilize 3DP technology in fashion for reasons related to material, technology, and cost constraints. The purpose of this study was to supplement the limitations of 3DP technology in order to promote its utilization in fashion and simultaneously find a solution to achieve aesthetic satisfaction in the design method. Specifically, through the development of fashion products with a 3DP polymer-fabric structure to which the parametric design methodology has been applied, this study explored the possibility of practical application and proposes a new 3DP fashion design method. The 3DP polymer-fabric developed as a result of the research was stably adhered to the fabric. Additionally, the study confirmed the possibility of making 3DP clothes that are amenable to the wearer's activities, as it was verified that cutting and sewing tailored to the human body's curvature and structure can be performed. The design process using the 3DP polymer-fabric presented in this study is meaningful in that it suggests a solution to complement the limitations of modern technology in connection with designers' creativity. Moreover, the design process presented in this study is expected to contribute to the commercialization and generalization of 3DP by providing practical help to allow fashion experts to utilize 3DP technology.

Design of the System Framework for Intangible Cultural Property 4D Recording Methods based on Gyro Sensor (Focusing on Sewing Hand Movement) (자이로센서 기반 무형문화유산 4D 기록 방법 시스템 프레임워크 설계(바느질 손동작 중심으로))

  • Kim, Ki-Hong;Yu, Jeong-Min
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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    • 2020.07a
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    • pp.415-417
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    • 2020
  • 무형문화유산의 전수 방식은 장인과 이수자의 직접적인 교육으로만 이루어져 왔으며 또한 전수는 긴 시간 동안 이루어지고 전수 방식을 따로 기록하는 경우가 드물며 동작이나 구전으로만 전해지기 때문에 표준화된 전수는 이루어질 수 없었다. 현재 국제 유네스코와 국내문화재청에서는 유무형문화재에 대한 전수와 기록의 중요성을 알고 다양한 디지털 기록을 진행하고 있다. 하지만 4차 산업혁명 시대에 무형유산 기록화 기술은 보유자의 기 예능 장인 공법을 기록하는 부분으로 영상기록 및 사진기록 도서 음원 등 아직까지 기존 아날로그 기술 방법으로 기록이 이루어지고 있으며 최근 5G 상용화와 함께 디지털 4차 산업 혁명시대와 발맞춰 무형유산 정보관리 기관에서도 무형유산 ICT 기반 기술 지원을 활성화되고 있는 시점에서 본 연구는 오랜 시간 동안 숙련도 높은 기술공법으로 한국 전통문화의 맥을 이어가고 있는 무형문화재 장인들의 기술 중에서 손을 사용하는 바느질 중심으로 자이로센서 기반으로 정확한 손동작 정보를 획득하고 기록할 수 있는 시스템 설계 및 연구개발을 통하여 ICT 기반 장인 공법 4D 기록화 기술을 제시하고자 한다. 이와 같은 기술로 무형문화유산의 새로운 4D 기록 방법으로 정확하게 기록하고 보존하여 무형문화유산 전승과 교육을 할 수 있고 문화유산의 유형에 맞는 교육·산업·홍보 등 다양한 사용 목적에 맞는 형태로 폭넓게 사용될 수 있다.

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Reproduction of 3D Virtual Wear of Sleeve-expanded Power Shoulder Jacket (소매확장 파워숄더 재킷의 3D 가상착의 재현)

  • Jeongah Park;Jeongran Lee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.593-602
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    • 2023
  • This study aimed to facilitate the use of virtual technologies such as sewing, appearance, and material expression in 3D virtual wear programs. For product production and education, we expounded how to express the shoulder shape and silhouette of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets. Two designs of sleeve-expanded power shoulder jackets were selected, and virtual jackets were produced using a virtual avatar based on the body dimensions of female subjects in their 20s. The essential purpose of a 3D virtual power shoulder jacket is to express the shoulder angle rise and shoulder width, which are much wider than the avatar's shoulder. Therefore, the virtual pad values were adjusted for the collision and rendering of each thickness. In addition, the position and angle of the virtual pads were controlled through simulation. Appearance similarity was evaluated using photographic data and the virtual jackets. For the set-in sleeve virtual power shoulder jacket, the wrinkle expressions of the torso and sleeve were rated as moderate, and material expression was slightly insufficient. The similarity of some ease and width items of the torso was tightly expressed, and the overall appearance, positions of lines, and details of jackets were rated high, especially at the neck and sleeve shapes. In the case of the kimono virtual power shoulder jacket, the expressions of the torso wrinkles and buttons were slightly lower; however, the overall similarity, basic lines, ease, shoulder and neck details, and material expression of the virtual jackets were highly evaluated.