• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.695-704
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• 2011

This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.766-775
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• 2014

This study is aimed to research the actual wearing condition of ballet dancewear of girls aged between 2 and 6 years on its design, size and fit. Survey data were collected from 171 mothers who have a girl learning ballet dance. The questionnaire was composed with ballet education, ballet dancewear purchasing, preference on design, size selection, and fitting. The collected data were analyzed with frequencies statistics, ${\chi}^2$-test, ANOVA using the SPSS WIN 20.0. The results are as follows; High rate of respondents said that the purpose of ballet education was for good body balance, leisure activity, and height growth. The main method of purchase was online shopping. The design, price, size and fit were identified as important ballet dancewear attributes for girls. The most preferred style of ballet dancewear were 'short sleeve skirted leotard' and 'camisole skirted leotard' which look like dress. The respondents reported slight satisfaction with size and fit, price, convenience in action, sewing and durability. The most preferred sizing system was code by height but any ballet dancewear makers don't use code by height. Therefore it is difficult for consumers to select size. Retailers and manufacturers could potentially use the results of this study to improve the sizing system and fit for children's ballet dancewear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.52-60
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the cases of the head family's costume culture and to apply them to field experience education of adolescent's home economics subject. To examine costume culture, women in the two head families in the Hampyeong area, Jeollanam-do were interviewed. The findings had unique shroud making and custom in the Mo's head family of Hampyeong. Also it was found that the eldest daughters-in-law of the Lee's of Hampyeong have horizontally exchanged the information of the head family's costume with village women of the same family. They have initiated their costume culture directly through their daughters and it had the great influence on after-ages. The Spot experience program for adolescent to experience the head family's costume culture and life culture consisted of four subjects:(l)Educating the head family's traditional living culture including etiquette training, (2)head family village walk, (3)experiencing the head family's clothes life including natural dyeing and sewing, and (4)a field trip of Hampyeong Local Life Culture Museum. For a model experience of the head family's costume and life culture, three families with middle and high schoolers participated in 8- hour experience learning program.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.491-503
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the purchase behavior, response, and complaining behavior for discounting claims in clothing products. The subjects are composed of 360 female consumers. Data were collected through questionnaire. Descriptive analysis was used for analysis of this study. The findings of this study were as follows: First, female consumer used department store for buying discount apparel products the most. The percentage of buying casual or sports wear for discounting was the most. Most consumers purchased clothing products when discounting at 20-40 percentages. Second, even if, consumers tended to distrust discounting claims, they were satisfied with discount apparel products. Especially, they were satisfied with price, design, color, and size, while they were dissatisfied with sewing and fabric in discount products. Third, most consumer knew the knowledge of consumer rights, but most dissatisfied consumers did not assert positive consumer's right. Therefore, marketer should increase the accessibility of their complaint receiving mechanism for dissatisfied consumers in retail environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.63-74
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• 2003

The first objective of this study is to investigate and analyze the construction of TUTU and secondly, to propose a systematic research background on a sewing method of TUTU. The final objective is to provide the exquisiteness and the comfort for customer when wearing a stage costume. The research method to investigate the TUTU construction in detail is by renting or buying three major TUTU brands, which are selling in Korea. The results of this study can be summarized into four categories. Firstly, the Bustier composes into 8 to10 patches, and the external material or accessory differs by the work of art and its characteristics. Moreover, the cotton is used for the inner material. which depends on dancer's vital activities. Secondly, a skirt layer ranges from 6 to 12 layers with laces. In addition, the gather or the pleats is used to form a crease. Thirdly, lace or cotton is the material used for culottes because it is stretchy and lightweight. For the waist part. a rubber band is used since its wearability plus functionality. Lastly, an adjusting part for a stage costume varied for each dressers physical feature and can be corrected with inner hems together a hook, a thread loop or a zip. In conclusion, the results of this study can provide the quality improvement for TUTU and furthermore can propose a framework for an understanding and a practical use of TUTU construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.160-168
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• 2018

Among the components of rotary hooks, a core component of an embroidery sewing system, a study was conducted to apply metal injection molding to the manufacture of a hook body and a housing that was very difficult to mechanical working. The correlation of feedstock, a mixture of binder and SCM 415 metal powder, and properties of the pressure-volume-temperature interrelationship, viscosity, specific heat, and thermal conductivity were measured. Injection molds for the hook body and the housing were developed through injection molding analysis using these properties and conducted injection tests. Optimal injection gate position and number, injection pressure, and injection time were obtained through a comparison of analysis results with the experiment results.