• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-156
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• 2012

This study examined the food culture of Koreans aged over 80-years-old living in the areas of Goorye and Gokseong. The research method was based on examination of individual cases through in-depth interviews. The total number of survey subjects was 38; males constituted 34 percent of the subjects while females constituted 66 percent of the subjects. Average age of male subjects was 85.3 years while average age of females was 84.8 years. The results were summarized in the following properties of the typical and traditional Korean table, which was the most common food life's property in the longevity area of was centered around rice, watery soup, vegetables, and fish. The first, as the supply step's property of food ingredients, various spices and ingredients such as piperitum, tumeric, ginger, garlic, chili pepper, and salted fish were used. Senior persons also supplied fresh vegetables at the kitchen garden, and they led a nature-friendly food life. The second, as the production of food and cooking of food step's property, there were multigrain rice and fermented foods such as soybean paste, kimchi, red pepper paste, salted fish, vegetables picked in soy sauce, etc. The recipe was cookery intermediated with water, soup, steamed vegetables, seasonings, etc., and it was characterized by a deep and rich taste due to the various spices and rich ingredients. The third, as the consumption of food step's property, senior persons regularly ate a balanced diet three times a day. They also had active personal relationships with their neighbors by sharing food, which increased their sense of belonging and improved their life satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.197-211
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• 2017

Modernization drastically changed the cosmetic culture of Korea and Japan. A classic case that shows this is the appearance of the term 'Hyangjang (香粧)'. This paper investigated the background to the formation of the term Hyangjang (香粧), and reviewed the aspects of cosmetic culture that changed with the emergence of Hyangjangpum (香粧品), or cosmetics containing perfume. The investigation revealed that the term Hyangjang (香粧) appeared for the first time in Hirano (1899), a literature published in the Meiji period in Japan, and that the new term Hyangjang (香粧) had been formed against the background of advanced Western synthetic perfume and played an important role in contemporary techniques for the manufacture of cosmetics. The term Hyangjang (香粧) and cosmetics containing perfume, or Hyangjangpum (香粧品) were then introduced from Japan to Korea. In Korea, the term 'Hyangjang (香粧)' appeared for the first time in an advertising copy written by Hyeon Hui-un, a pioneer of the Korean modern theater movement during the period of Japanese colonial rule. At that time, cosmetic companies in Korea and Japan were releasing cosmetic products that contained perfume that stimulated a women's desire to purchase them by emphasizing 'fragrance' in their advertising. Existing public tendencies to regard a fragrant smell from a made-up face as vulgar were changing and the public perception of fragrance were also changing. The appearance of Hyangjangpum (香粧品) indicates that the existing cosmetic culture revolving around visual sense changed into a complex cosmetic culture involving olfaction. This change in culture is significant in that it heralded the direction of future development towards cosmetic culture that uses increase combinations of different senses including touch, taste, and hearing.

• Journal of People, Plants, and Environment
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-217
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• 2019

Generally human sensibility is expressed in a certain language. To discover the sensibility of visitors in relation to the forest environment, it is first necessary to determine their exact meanings. Furthermore, it is necessary to sort these terms according to their meanings based on an appropriate classification system. This study attempted to develop a classification system for forest sensibility vocabulary by extracting Korean words used by forest visitors to express their sensibilities in relation to the forest environment, and established the structure of the system to classify the accumulated vocabulary. For this purpose, we extracted forest sensibility words based on literature review of experiences reported in the past as well as interviews of forest visitors, and categorized the words by meanings using the Standard Korean Language Dictionary maintained by the National Institute of the Korean Language. Next, the classification system for these words was established with reference to the classification system for vocabulary in the Korean language examined in previous studies of Korean language and literature. As a result, 137 forest sensibility words were collected using a documentary survey, and we categorized these words into four types: emotion, sense, evaluation, and existence. Categorizing the collected forest sensibility words based on this Korean language classification system resulted in the extraction of 40 representative sensibility words. This experiment enabled us to determine from where our sensibilities that find expressions in the forest are derived, that is, from sight, hearing, smell, taste, or touch, along with various other aspects of how our human sensibilities are expressed such as whether the subject of a word is person-centered or object-centered. We believe that the results of this study can serve as foundational data about forest sensibility.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.466-471
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• 2002

Effect of anti-microbial agents, such as alcohol, garlic, chitosan, K-sorbate, mustard, or pasteurization on the quality of traditional kochujang was investigated during storage at $30^{\circ}C$ for 24 weeks. The pH of kochujang decreased during storage and titratable acidity changed little in the group of mustard and garlic addition. Reducing sugar increased during storage, with higher values for K-sorbate of alcohol added groups than the other groups. Alcohol contents increased during storage with higher values in control or chitosan added group. Amino nitrogen contents of kochujang decreased gradually during storage and were lower in control or chitosan added group. Ammonia nitrogen contents were lower in alcohol, garlic, K-sorbate or mustard added kochujang. The content of total free amino acid increased slightly during storage and were higher in pasteurized, garlic or alcohol added kochujang. After 24 weeks of storage, the results of sensory evaluation showed K-sorbate, garlic or alcohol added kochujang were more acceptable than control in the sense of taste.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.229-239
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• 2015

The 21st century is a multiplication age and social and cultural phenomena have become diverse and peoples' desires and individuality have become important. Accordingly, the sensibility that reflects human taste is also required in the exhibition space. The exhibitions in this age induce the direct cognition of senses or take interactive forms that contact diverse media and react. The purpose of this research is to define the concept of haptic presentation method in which the audience perceive in the exhibition space by themselves and the visual elements spread into other senses and perceive complexly, and to present the directional nature. To conduct this research, first, this researcher recognized that haptic sensory experiential research by analyzing the roles and transition history of exhibition space is needed for the present age Second, based on philosophical theories, four haptic sensory expression characteristics (medium nature, experiential nature, attractiveness, sensitiveness) were derived by substituting Giles Deleuze's four haptic spatial characteristics (grasping short distance, dispersed gaze, cognition of bodily movement, formation of synesthesia through complex senses) and six formative factors of exhibition space (space, form, size, light, quality of materials, and color). And the effective exhibition presentation methods were analyzed through six cases of experiential exhibition spaces. Accordingly, what matters in the experiential exhibition space is to produce the four characteristics: medium nature, experientiality, attractiveness, and sensitiveness in equilibrium. It is necessary for the designers to reflect it appropriately in producing so that the audience can think and experience by themselves. Accordingly, in this thesis, it could be seen that to produce the haptic production characteristics in the experiential exhibition space in equilibrium is the important factor in the experiential exhibition space. In conclusion, experiences in the exhibition space should be approached with the transcendental haptic presentation method by which even the space of actually unexperienced cognition can be expanded and experienced through the metastasis and tension of various senses. Also, researches on such senses should be developed continuously, and this researcher expects that this will become a stimulant to present a new directivity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.149-161
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• 2008

Since the use of textile has become more extensive and applied for various products, today, the importance of utility, ornament and civilization of textile is emphasized. Textile design should be able to satisfy the designer's creativity and his/her world of art. Moreover, it should be appropriate for the industrial technology circumstances, and taste of consumers. In Korea, traditional culture has been extremely valued, allowing people to be more interested in textile designs derived from traditional cultural. Therefore, designs inspired by the spirit and sense of traditional patterns has been used to develop modern textile designs. Prior research on products, however, show that cultural motive was insufficient, therefore, in this research the purpose is to design textiles and to develop Korean neckties, an essential component of men's attire, by adapting Korean traditional patterns. In order to conduct the research, first, numerous parers on Korean traditional patterns have been studied to select fundamental data about the development of necktie textile designs. Second, Korean traditional patterns were applied while following the target and concept, and two pieces of necktie textile designs have been suggested. Patterns had been designed by hand drawing and CAD system, they have been suggested as a portfolio. As a result, this article suggests new necktie designs utilizing Korean traditional patterns and, attempts to develop particular pattern designs, which have power to accommodate globalization and to express the special qualities of Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

It is already known that olfactory susceptibility differ with races and sex. Moreover, with aging both detection and identification about olfactory information were impaired. For researches about evaluation of the odor with aging, although the subject used, from infants to elderly, was various, the kinds of odor used were restricted to simple alcohol and acetic acid. Also, the evaluation methods were mainly used olfactory test. From over respects , this research was done as follows. Subjects were 19 to 72 years (n=50) whose sense-of-smell functions are normal. They were taken as stability and closed eye state. The odor stimuli were used 100% natural odor of six kinds of Basil, Lavender, Lemon, Jasmine, Ylangylang oil and Skatole , during 60 seconds using olfactometer. ECG, GSR and subjective evaluation were measured, and examined their relevance. Twenty and 40 ages group evaluated Lemon and 60 ages group did Lavender affirmatively. Correlation was seen among RRI, HR, GSR and subjective evaluation for 40 ages group, and it turns out that it is the group which a mature olfactory function most. These results are fully applied not only to development of the classified cosmetics for the age group but to development of the artificial smell and taste.