• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.29-43
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• 2020

This study investigated the luxury supply chain management called 'See now, Buy now'. This has been a new way of controlling the supply and demand for luxury brands in the fashion industry since 2016. In this study, we explored the backgrounds and impacts of 'See now, Buy now' in the digital era. 'See now, Buy now' was launched by the fashion brand, Burberry in February 2016. It was the first luxury brand to showcase its entire collection using 'See now, Buy now' among the brands which showcase in Paris, Milan, New York, and London fashion weeks. That has not only caused many controversies in the fashion world but also generated followers. In this study, we analyzed 'See now, Buy now' in three aspects, economics, efficiency, and management strategy, and this was done through a literature survey on articles pertaining to 'See now, Buy now' and empirical surveys on Burberry's collections. Based on 'See now, Buy now', Burberry tried a new process of supply and sale. In the era of SNS, the spread of information is getting faster. The speed of SNS and changes in the fashion market combining IT and mobile technology are major changes faced by the fashion industry. 'See now, Buy now', a model of the new supply and demand in luxury fashion brands, should be noted as a new directional aspect for the future of the fashion industry. Since it was a relatively recent trend that started from the September show of Burberry in 2016, there was still a lack of academic discussion or prior research on this phenomenon. Therefore this study aimed to predict future directions by recognizing the importance of 'See now, Buy now' in the fashion industry. Also, based on this research, the significance of this study was to present a management strategy that applies 'See now, Buy now' to the future of the fashion industry in the digital era.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.519-529
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• 2022

This research analyzed the characteristics of Hanfu street snaps in the Chinese version of TikTok to determine the development and meaning of Hanfu. Based on grounded theory, this study selected 102 representative cases by sorting Hanfu street snaps on TikTok according to popularity. Subsequently, through open coding, the cases were organized and summarized into five main categories. The findings are as follows: 1) The national cultural pride has enabled a greater number of Hanfu fans and groups to upload short videos promoting the Hanfu movement on TikTok to expand the influence of the activities and popularize cultural knowledge. 2) The users attempted cross-cultural communication by participating in cultural festivals in Western countries wearing Hanfu. 3) The 'See now buy now' function of TikTok enables numerous Hanfu merchants to upload short videos about Hanfu products to promote their products and boost sales. 4) As 'gamification' affects everyday life, computer game enthusiasts among them wear Hanfu in the form of role-playing. 5)As a unique "meme" phenomenon on TikTok, wearing Hanfu to make interesting videos has also become a form of entertainment. Thus, although the characteristics of Hanfu street snaps on TikTok originated from the transmission of Hanfu culture, the culture has now been transformed through social media into symbolic consumption and play culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.36-50
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• 2021

In the COVID-19 era, globally, companies in the fashion industry are pursuing new convergence methods through digital technology. Conventional fashion shows have become difficult to run exclusively, instead, the shows are run through a combination of offline and digital arrangements. This paper examines the trends of seven digital fashion show weeks in London, Paris, Milan, New York, Seoul, Shanghai, and Tokyo, and presents strategies applicable in Korea's Seoul Digital Fashion Week. We focused on the digital technology used in the digital fashion weeks fashion brands, and the characteristics of the host cities. The study conducted a literature review and case study through corporate and research report data, and the Fashion Week website. Based on the study results, changes in fashion industry calendars like 'See now, Buy now', seasonless, and unified collections for men and women, expansion of D2C system, the rise of short-form contents, and the expansion to the virtual world space and physical limitations can be cited as changed trends. The study provides insight into the incorporation of the Korean Wave and K-Pop singers, industrial structure change, and the establishment of B2B system in the Seoul digital fashion week. The shift to the digital runway is not only an alternative method to cope with the COVID-19 era but also a new "new normal". Fashion shows are no longer fixed and planned in free spaces. As a venue displaying the creator's personality, digital fashion week is expected advance in the future.

• Journal of Science and Technology Studies
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.91-135
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• 2019

As we live a life increasingly mediated by computers, we often outsource our critical judgments to artificial intelligence(AI)-based algorithms. Most of us have become quite dependent upon algorithms: computers are now recommending what we see, what we buy, and who we befriend with. What happens to our lives and identities when we use statistical models, algorithms, AI, to make a decision for us? This paper is a preliminary attempt to chronicle a historical trajectory of judging people's economic and moral worth, namely the history of credit-rating within the context of the history of capitalism. More importantly this paper will critically review the history of credit-rating from its earlier conception to the age of big data and algorithmic evaluation, in order to ask questions about what the political implications of outsourcing our judgments to computer models and artificial intelligence would be. Some of the questions I would like to ask in this paper are: by whom and for what purposes is the computer and artificial intelligence encroached into the area of judging people's economic and moral worth? In what ways does the evolution of capitalism constitute a new mode of judging people's financial and personal identity, namely the rated self? What happens in our self-conception and identity when we are increasingly classified, evaluated, and judged by computer models and artificial intelligence? This paper ends with a brief discussion on the political implications of the outsourcing of human judgment to artificial intelligence, and some of the analytic frameworks for further political actions.