• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.188-196
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• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.33-44
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• 2013

IIn this study, a wave-surge-tide coupling numerical model was developed to consider nonlinear interaction. Then, this model was applied and calculations were made for a storm surge on the southeast coast. The southeast coast was damaged by typhoon "Maemi" in 2003. In this study, we used a nearshore wind wave model called SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). In addition, the Meyer model was used for the typhoon model, along with an ocean circulation model called POM (Princeton Ocean Model). The wave-surge-tide coupling numerical model could calculate exact parameters when each model was changed to consider the nonlinear interaction.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.149-163
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• 2024

This paper employs the third-generation simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) ocean wave model to estimate and analyze storm waves induced by Typhoon Bolaven, focusing on its impact along the west coast and Jeju Island of Korea. Utilizing reanalyzed meteorological data from the Japan Meteorological Agency meso scale model (JMA-MSM), the study simulated storm waves from Typhoon Bolaven, which maintained its intensity up to high latitudes as it approached the Korean Peninsula in 2012. Validation of the SWAN model against observed wave data demonstrated a strong correlation, particularly in regions where wind speeds exceeded 20 m/s and wave heights surpassed 5 m. Results indicate significant storm wave heights across Jeju Island and Korea's west and southwest seas, with coastal grid points near islands recording storm wave heights exceeding 90% of the 50-year return period design wave heights. Notably, specific grid points near islands in the northern West Sea and southwest Jeju Island estimated storm wave heights at 90.22% and 91.48% of the design values, respectively. The paper highlights the increased uncertainty and vulnerability in coastal disaster predictions due to event-driven typhoons and emphasizes the need for enhanced accuracy and speed in typhoon wave predictions amid the escalating climate crisis.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

Long-term wave distribution at Jeju sea is investigated by a numerical simulation based on the thirdgeneration wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The Jeju sea which retains relatively high wave energy density among Korean coastal regions is considered to be a suitable site for wave power generation and the efficiency of wave power generation is closely related to local wave characteristics. The monthly mean of a large-scale long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002, which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute. is used as the boundary condition of SWAN model simulation with 1km grid. An analysis of wave distribution concentrates on the seasonal variation and spatial distribution of significant wave heights, mean wave directions and mean wave periods. Significant wave heights are higher in winter and summer and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively higher than east's. The highest significant wave height occurs at the northeast sea in winter and the second highest significant wave height appears at the southeast sea in summer, while the significant wave heights in spring and autumn are relatively low but homogeneous. The distribution of wave directions reveals that except the rear region influenced by wave refraction, the northwest wave direction is dominant in summer and the southeast in winter. Wave periods are longer in summer and winter and the west sea of Jeju appears relatively longer than east's. The longest wave period occurs at the west sea in winter, and in summer it appears relatively homogeneous with a little longer period at the south sea.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.6 s.61
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• pp.8-15
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• 2004

Wave power distribution is investigated to determine the optimal sites for wave power generation at Jeju sea which has the highest wave energy density in the Korean coastal waters. The spatial and seasonal variation of wave power per unit length is calculated in the Jeju sea area based on the monthly mean wave data from 1979 to 2002 which is produced by the SWAN wave model simulation in prior research. The selected favorable locations for wave power generation are compared in terms of magnitude of wave energy density and distribution characteristics of wave parameters. The results suggest that Chagui-Do is the most optimal site for wave power generation in the Jeju sea. The seasonal distribution of wave energy density reveals that the highest wave energy density occurs in the northwest sea in the winter and it is dominated by wind waves, while the second highest one happens at south sea in the summer and it is dominated by a swell sea. The annual average of wave energy density shows that it gradually increases from east to west of the Jeju sea. At Chagui-Do, the energy density of the sea swell sea is relatively uniform while the energy density of the wind waves is variable and strong in the winter.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

While a typhoon is traveling, characteristics of its wind fields are continuously changing, producing severe changes in local water level and wave conditions, especially, when a typhoon comes into shallow water. However, there have not been many studies related to local typhoon effects, especially, considering real time changes of wind direction related to the coastal topography. In the study, the characteristics of the wind field by typhoon and topographical characteristics in shallow water are considered, as well as conditions of wave climate estimation. These are performed by the SWAN (Simulating waves nearshore) model, in order to estimate the growth of wave energy due to the wind field. It can be strongly suggested that the wave energy of theof an inner bay should be estimated when the direction of the bay entrance and the wind direction of the typhoon are identical. The result of the numerical calculations is in better agreement with the observed data than the result of the conventional estimation techniques.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.67-74
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• 2023

High waves and storm surges due to tropical cyclones cause great damage in coastal areas; therefore, accurately predicting storm surges and high waves before a typhoon strike is crucial. Meteorological forcing is an important factor for predicting these catastrophic events. This study presents an improved methodology for determining accurate meteorological forcing. Typhoon Chaba, which caused serious damage to the south coast of South Korea in 2016, was selected as a case study. In this study, symmetric and asymmetric parametric vortex models based on the typhoon track forecasted by the Model for Prediction Across Scales (MPAS) were used to create meteorological forcing and were compared with those models based on the best track. The meteorological fields were also created by blending the meteorological field from the symmetric / asymmetric parametric vortex models based on the MPAS-forecasted typhoon track and the meteorological field generated by the forecasting model (MPAS). This meteorological forcing data was then used given to two-way coupled tide-surge-wave models: Advanced CIRCulation (ADCIRC) and Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). The modeled storm surges and waves correlated well with the observations and were comparable to those predicted using the best track. Based on our analysis, we propose using the parametric model with the MPAS-forecasted track, the meteorological field from the same forecasting model, and blending them to improve storm surge and wave prediction.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.233-233
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• 2022

최근 기후변화로 인해 집중호우 및 돌발홍수의 증가로 침수피해가 빈번하게 발생하고 있다. 마찬가지로 해안지역의 피해 또한 증가하고 있으나, 해안지역의 특성을 고려한 연구가 미비한 실정이다. 따라서 본 연구에서 해안지역의 특성을 고려해 폭풍해일로 인한 월파뿐만 아니라 강우도 고려하여 해안지역의 범람 양상을 확인하고자 하였다. 본 연구에서는 국내 해안지역에 대한 빈도별 폭풍해일과 강우로인한 범람 모의를 진행하였다. 우선, 수치해석 모형의 경계조건을 산정하기 위해 EurOtop(2018)의 경험식을 이용하여 월파량을 산정하였다. EurOtop의 월파량 산정 시 암석 옹벽이 아닌 콘크리트 옹벽으로된 경사식 단면으로 고려하여 계산하였고 산책로와 벽까지 고려하여 계산하였다. 경험식 계산을 위해 매개변수(유의파고, 여유고, 구조물의 조도계수, 구조물의 기울기 및 경사 등)를 조정하여 계산하였다. 이 중, 계산에 사용된 유의파고는 시나리오별 강우에 대해 SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore)으로 계산된 값을 활용하였고, 해안선을 두 부분으로 나누어 해안지역 각 지점별 파고값의 평균을 사용해 월파량 계산을 진행했다. 이때, 파고의 종류로 5% 확률의 파고, 평균 파고, 중앙값 파고, 95% 확률의 파고로 분류해 월파량 계산을 진행했고, 그 중, 평균 파고를 이용해 계산한 월파량을 수치해석 모델의 입력자료로 활용하였다. 시나리오별로 계산된 월파량만을 이용해 2차원 침수모형인 FLO-2D의 경계조건 입력값으로 사용하여 침수 양상을 표출하기 위해 Mapper와 ArcGIS를 이용하여 침수와 범람 양상을 확인하였다. 또, 다른 조건으로 시나리오별 계산된 월파량, 연구유역 해안 반대편에 위치한 산으로부터 유입되는 물의 양 그리고 해안지역 전체에 내리는 강우를 입력자료로 사용해 모의를 진행한 후 Mapper와 ArcGIS로 표출하여 침수 및 범람 양상을 확인하였다.