• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.228-242
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• 2019

This research investigated the effect of mordants on the degradation of madder dye in silk when silk was treated by the H2O2/UV condition as a laboratory simulation of burial induced degradation. Alum, iron, and alum/iron composite mordanting methods were applied to silk before dyeing with madder dye. Dye extracted from silk was examined using HPLC-DAD-MS analysis. The abundance of the chromatogram peak at 8.88 min retention time was used as the concentration of alizarin pigment in silk. K/S values, CIE $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values; in addition, Munsell HVC values were obtained using a spectrocolorimeter. The findings indicated that alizarin degraded most severely in silk mordanted by alum/iron composite mordanting than alum mordanting or iron mordanting. Mordanting with alum alone provided a relatively lower dye fixation at the point of dyeing; however, it provided a better survival of alizarin after 12 hours of degradation treatment.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.83-104
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• 2022

This article attempts to explain current social perceptions in Mexico about the Silk Road. Based on a critical geopolitics approach, the author analyzes how the idea of the Silk Road is socially constructed in Mexican popular geopolitics, focusing on studying digital mass media between 2013 and 2020. The main research questions are: how is the Silk Road notion constructed in Mexican popular geopolitics and what are the geopolitical implications for Mexico? The article discovers that in Mexico, the idea of the "Silk Road" is profoundly close to the idea of the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) given China's geostrategic discourse that constructs the BRI as a "New Silk Road". The article also argues that Mexico's social-political agency to deal with China may be hindered by divergent social perceptions in favor and against the "Silk Road".

• 한국잠사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국잠사학회 2002년도 Join Meetings of Korean Society of Sericultural Science and Japanse Society of Sericultural Science
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• pp.95-95
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• 2002

No Abstract, See Full Text

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1991

The textile fabric have the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various texitle fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural nor synthetic, has all the functions. In this sence, many blend yarns have been improved various functions of fabric. However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, especially in the case of blend fabric of silk. In this study, we dyed silk/PET blend fabric in one step useing one bath dyeing method by acid dyes/disperse dyes. The results of the experiments can be summarized as follows; 1) Yellow index of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ increased about 7.8 (color difference 4.5 NBS) and whiteness decrease about 5%. 2) Both elongation and tensile strength of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ of pH 5-6 decreased about 10% and tensile strength of silk spun yarn treated at $60^{\circ}C$ of pH 10 have little changed. 3) While silk/PET blend frbric dyeing, silk soiling of disperse dyes causes from difference of dyeing rate and degree of silk soiling with dyes. 4) Fastness and soiling of silk/PET blend fabric dyed by one bath dyeing method of acid dyes/disperse dyes was same as two bath dyeing method.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study investigates the crystallinity distribution of ancient silk. Owing to the inherent multi-hierarchical structure of silk protein and the complicated structural changes that occur due to various burial environments, it is challenging but worthwhile to study ancient silk ageing behavior, which is based on the fact that ageing begins with a single fiber and then spreads to a whole fabric. Crystallinity was one of the most effective indicators found to reveal the ageing status of silk. Therefore, a synchrotron radiation-based X-ray diffraction(SR-XRD) method was employed to study the crystallinity distribution of single fibers of ancient silk unearthed from seven archaeological sites in China from historical periods including the warring states, Han dynasty, Song dynasty, and Ming dynasty. In comparison, the conventional X-ray diffraction method, which uses large amounts of samples, was also performed to determine the integral crystallinity of ancient silk. Thermal stability experiments by thermogravimetry(TG) as well as morphology observations by scanning electron microscopy(SEM) and optical microscopy(OM) all confirmed the deterioration of ancient silk. Moreover, the ageing mechanism of ancient silk was proposed with the assistance of an artificial ageing study. The results confirmed the effectiveness of SR-XRD as an ageing indicator, revealing the crystallinity distribution. This research could provide motivation to determine the deterioration status of ancient silk, and would also aid in explaining the fragility of ancient silk due to ageing.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Tropical tasar silkworm, Antheraea mylitta is a commercial forest silkworm in India that produces tasar silk, but never experimented in Uttarakhand, a Himalayan state of India. A. mylitta express divergent phenotypic characters under different ecological conditions; so, we studied the effect of seven forest tree species in two rearing seasons on variability in silk gland weight of Daba (bivoltine) ecorace of A. mylitta at Forest Research Institute in Dehra Dun, Uttarakhand during 2012 and 2013. We used two-way completely randomized block factorial design and Post HOC Tukey's HSD test to analyse the collected data and there after carried out multiple regression analysis. Results indicated that silk gland weight differed significantly between rearing seasons (DF=1, F=2333.98, p <0.05), host plants (DF 6, F= 1516.25, p <0.05) and their interactions (DF=6, F=7.10, p <0.05). Higher silk gland weight was found in second rearing season than the first on all the host tree species. Terminalia alata fed A. mylitta larvae showed the highest silk gland weight of 8.03 and 9.47 g in first and second rearing seasons, followed by T. tomentosa (7.19 & 9.01g), T. arjuna (6.8 & 8.08 g) and L. speciosa (6.57 & 7.83 g) fed larvae, respectively. Post HOC Tukey's HSD test indicated that silk gland weight of L. speciosa and T. arjuna fed larvae in both the rearing seasons did not differ significantly. E.I. analysis also confirmed that T. alata, T. tomentosa, T. arjuna and L. speciosa are better in their order of merit than T. bellirica , T. chebula and L. tomentosa. Multiple regression analysis indicates that larval weight gain is a strong predictor (β=1.002, t=346.777, p = <0.05) for the silk gland weight of A. mylitta ; however, larval duration had significant negative regression weight (β=-0.270, t=-8.436, p = <0.05) on mean weight of silk gland.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.53-82
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• 2022

The Hebrew word for silk, meshi, is mentioned in the Bible only once and there is a possibility that the item to which it referred was made of local wild silk. Although Jewish historical sources from the Roman and Byzantine periods mention silk many times, only a few silk textiles have been discovered at a sited dated to the Byzantine period (4^th-7^th centuries CE). The word "silk" occurs in the New Testament, although only once. A turning point in the history of the Negev (Southern Israel) occurred around 400 CE when it underwent a period of prosperity related to the advent of Christianity and pilgrimage, which enabled the purchase of imported silk textiles. The Early Islamic period (7-8th centuries CE) yielded four (out of 310) silk textiles from Nahal 'Omer on the Spice Routes joining Petra, in the Edom Mountains of modern Jordan, and the mercantile outlets on the Mediterranean Sea, notably Gaza and El Arish. The most important silk textile assemblage in the Southern Levant was found near Jericho at Qarantal Cave 38 and dates to the medieval period (9th-13th centuries CE). Linen textiles decorated with silk tapestry originating in Egypt date back to the 10-11th centuries CE. Mulham textiles - silk warp with hidden cotton wefts - were discovered in the medieval fortress on Jazirat Fara'un (Coral Island) in the Red Sea, 14 kilometers south of Elat and today located in Egypt. Mulham is mentioned in literary sources of the ninth century in Iraq and Iran, whence it spread through the Islamic world. The article will present aspects of the origin, transmission, and exchange of these textiles.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

견본 회화 문화재의 보존처리의 보견작업에 적합한 자외선 인공 열화견을 얻기 위해 자외선의 종류, 자외선 조사시간에 따른 열화견의 물리적 특성과 견본 회화 보존처리에의 적용성을 평가하였다. 장파장 자외선(UV-A) 조사 열화견은 단파장 자외선(UV-C) 조사 열화견에 비해 자연상태에서 열화가 일어난 생견과 유사한 표면 손상 형태를 보였다. UV-C 열화견은 자외선 조사와 함께 강도가 급격하게 떨어져 54시간을 조사하였을 때 원래 강도의 12.7%까지 저하한 반면 UV-A 열화견은 168시간 조사하였을 때 원래 강도의 14.2% 수준으로 떨어져 강도 저하가 완만하였다. UV-A 열화견의 수분율은 자외선 조사시간의 증가와 함께 7.3%까지 떨어지다가 증가하지만 UV-C 열화견은 6.0%까지 떨어지다가 다시 증가하였으며 전체적으로 UV-A 열화견의 수분이 높았다. UV-A 열화견은 밝은 황색을 띠며 황변지수가 낮은 반면 UV-C 열화견은 어두운 황갈색이며 황변지수가 높았다. 견본 회화 보존처리에의 적용성을 평가한 결과, UV-A 열화견은 UV-C 열화견에 비해 황변에 의한 색상차가 크지 않아 보견 작업시 염색이나 보채에 크게 문제가 되지 않을 정도이며, 강도면에서 UV-C 열화견은 섬유가 부서지기 쉬운 상태인 것과는 달리, UV-A 열화견은 자연상태에서 열화가 일어난 생견과 유사한 속심이 살아있는 듯한 느낌을 띠었다. 그리고 UV-A 열화견과 UV-C 열화견 모두 친수성을 가져 보채에는 문제가 없었다. 전반적인 평가 결과 UV-C 열화견 보다 UV-A 열화견이 견본 회화의 보견에 사용하기 적합하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.