• Title/Summary/Keyword: Russian Costume

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A Study on the Larionov & Goncharova's Costumes for Arts Performance - Focused on Rayonism & Ballets Russes - (라리오노프와 곤챠로바의 공연 예술의상 연구 - 광선주의와 러시아 발레를 중심으로 -)

  • Park Yoon-Jeong;Yang Sook-Hi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.7 s.98
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    • pp.1-21
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.

A Comparative Study of Hedgear among the Eastern Slavs (동슬라브민족의 여성 두식에 관한 연구)

  • 조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.33-50
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    • 2000
  • A comparative and an analysis of the resemblance and the particularity of the women's headgear which has been developed in accordance with each of climate and historical beck ground of the Eastern Slavs: the Russians the Belarusians and the Ukrainians those are deeply influenced by the culture of costume of the Scythians which is considered as the origin of the Koreans culture of costume is presented in this study. A well-known Russian ethnographer D. K. Jelenin classifies the women's head gear of the Eastern Slavs as a platok a chepetch a shapka and a unmarried women's venetch by its structural figure. Those 4 kinds of head gears are the basic head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman. However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of each nations show us that they have been developed differently not only by the climatic and the geological influences but also by the influence of their historical background. Furthermore we could realize that the Eastern Slavs had classified a person's social position and a standing in family members by the head gear. The incantational and the religious meanings of the hair styles and the head gears are shown in this paper. For instance they has been considered that a married woman without a hat is a disgrace and it even affects to the harvest. Even they believed that a corn styled Russian woman's hat named "Roga" protects a mother and her baby from the evil spirit. It seems that such a ethnographical culture is caused by their own faith of Russian orthodox and a non-Christian ancient religious culture of those regions.

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A Study of the Costumes and Make-up in the Movie "Anna Karenina"

  • Jung, Jeewon;Kim, Eunsil
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.14-30
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s (1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.36
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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The fashion Design of the Avantgarde Artists during the Early Twentieth Century - Focus on the Constructivism - (20세기 초반 러시아 아방가르드 미술가의 의상디자인 활동 - 구성주의를 중심으로 -)

  • 오선희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.3
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    • pp.59-73
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    • 2001
  • This paper is to examine the meaning of activities of a number of artists who belong to Constructivism in the fashion design area during early twentieth century. After Russian Revolution, the artists like Nadeshda Lamanowa, Ljubow Popowa and Warwara Stepanova decided to devote to practical art area for many People. It's very meaningful for them to jump into real work places like a textile mill and a clothing workshop instead of staying in fine art area. Constructivism is more related to social interest rather than individual thing. The artists tried to apply their modeling principles in fine art to dress making. We can see the geometrical lines and shapes and big differences In colors and material in their dress. The artists had also shown personal tastes to dress works. This idea of togetherness with their time and even to create the style of it. was very renovative at that time and gave an influence on the later styles.

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A Study on Leon Bakst's Stage Costumes for Ballets Russes (발레 뤼스에 나타난 박스트의 무대의상 연구)

  • Lee, Young-Suk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.407-423
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

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