• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.42-49
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• 2006

This study aims to revive modernized upstyle technique by analyzing the formative characteristics of hairstyle in Rococo ages. As a methodology, book-form literatures, periodicals, theses, and photographic materials including portraits related to Rococo ages, which had been studied from the time when Louis XIV died, to the advent of French Revolution in 1789, reaching a period of seventy-four years, were reviewed. Those materials for hairstyle revealed in modern fashion included related literatures and theses and photographs involving designers' works in fashion magazines, photographs of hairstylists' works, and movies with background of Rococo ages. Based on such materials, the formative characteristics of hairstyle in Rococo ages were studied for modernized upstyle. First, the formative characteristics of hairstyle in Rococo ages were divided and analyzed in Fontnage style, in Pompadour style Marie Antoinette style. Second, this study researched those examples wherein the characteristics of Rococo's hairstyle were expressed in modernized style, and manufactured modern upstyle works based on the research. Rococo ages featured various fashion trends and created sensitive and magnificent style with romantic theme in art field. Also, since the hairstyle in Rococo ages featured various styles that were magniloquent and magnificent, it is revived in today's hair shows and fashion shows in the same way or altered way. It is expected that this study will help understand the formative characteristics of hairstyle in Rococo ages and shed light on study on modern hairstyle in more various perspectives.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.94-94
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• 2002

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2003

Rococo, which is represented as immoderate pleasure and luxurious aristocratism, had required to be liberal and unconventional in art and life, and the hairstyles were also much more fantastic, huge, and splendid than ever. Women's hairstyles in the early 18th century were the relatively simple style of Pompadour style that didn't inflate hairs and combed them backward. Then, as changes in haristyles began to appear in around 1760, the styles became gradually higher and huger, and very queer styles also appeared. In the 1780s, they ornamented these hairdos by using various things. This can be considered as women's behaviors that showed off their status and wealth instead of their husbands. Although men's hairstyles were not as huge and decorative as women's, wigs were worn frequently. Wigs became smaller and simpler than those in 17C, and while wearing them, they made wigs whitened by spraying hair-powders enough not to recognize their ages. Several names such as Pig tail, Ramilleis, Bag wig, Brigadiere, and so on existed, according to the way to tie the wigs. Somewhat exaggerated men's hairstyles were shown by Macaronis in 1780s. However, this can be regarded to reflect the situation of the age.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined the changes of the man's underclothes from the ancient ages to the early modern ages. The method of study researched literatures and possessions of the museum. In ancient ages, a suit of clothes had the functions of both underclothes and outer garments. In middle ages, underclothes were not exposed and the importance was not recognized while they were worn to show the sense of sin and humility or to punish criminals. In early modern ages, the importance of underclothes recognized as they were exposed. In Renaissance period, the fashion of the day influenced much on the underclothes. In Baroque ages, the functions of underclothes were different according to sexes and men wore underclothes to show their social status. As the outer garments were shortned, shirt wwere also conspicuously exposed. In Rococo ages, drawers were tightened due to the influence of outer garments, men exposed their shirts to show the social status and underclohtes were usually worn to express sexual attraction. Men's underclothes had the functions of class distinction from the ancient ages to the modern ages, except the middle ages and underclothes had the additional functions such as supporting body-shape and sex attraction. The fashion of the day influenced on the changes of the shapes of the shapes of men's underclothes and the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.73-84
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• 2011

Upholstery style is the form which bulges a shape by putting fillings in the support and covering them with patterned textile or pile fabric. Modern upholstery style was combined with the various socio-cultural products and artistic styles and expressed in interior furniture and costumes of historical time periods. The style first originated when people built houses for settlement and made furniture to decorate its interior. The characteristics of upholstery style came to be prominent in the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo times with the development of science and textile industry. The interior furniture represented the ages of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo and were made with similar images of the architectural style from those different time periods. Textiles, tapestry, velvet, corduroy, damask, brocade, and the most frequently used velvet are elements that make up the structural and figurative features of the architectural style. The upholstery style of furniture also shows the forms of clothing that represents each of the different periods. This style still continues to be used today. In modern day fashion, the figurative characteristics of the upholstery style that derives from interior furniture and clothing from the different time periods are bulkiness, asymmetry and exoticism. Such figurative characteristics have evolved through the combination of diverse genres but it still maintains similar designs and forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.