• 제목/요약/키워드: Ritual clothes

검색결과 20건 처리시간 0.026초

민속조사를 통해 본 인천지 역의 의생활( I ) - 통과의례복식 중심 - (Ethnographies of Clothing in Incheon Province( I )- Focus on passage ritual clothes -)

  • 장인우
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제7권2호
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    • pp.51-60
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    • 2005
  • This ethnography is on the passage ritual clothes in Incheon province. This ethnography invatigates in two villages of people who has same family name -Family 'Cheung' (from Young-il) in Yeonsoo-dong and Family 'Lee'(from Cheun-joo) in dongyang-dong- in August to December 2003. The object of examination is 80's and 70's old women who have lived and had lived up to recent in two villages. (grand mother Sung, Cho, Cheung and yoon) The clothes of passage ritual are Baenaeoht is the first clothes of the newborn baby(swaddling), A wedding ceremony clothe is the clothing for the coming-of-age ceremony, Honryebouk is the clothing for wedding, Sangbouk in the clothing for mourning, shroud is the clothing for the dead, sacrificial robes. The result of ethnogrphy is the passage ritual clothes in Incheon Province similar with other Provinces in aspect of the name and the form and wearing of the clothes. there are remarkable differences in making method from making by oneself to purchase(swaddling$\cdot$shroud), westernize(clothes for wedding and mourning), simplification (sacrificial) between ritual for their parents and their husband and children.

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한국무속의예 복식의 연구(I) (A Study on the Clothes of Shamanistic Ritual(I))

  • 양미경;김진구
    • 복식
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    • 제20권
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    • pp.83-91
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    • 1993
  • Signifying clothes can be defined as a process in which a clothes obtains a symbolic meaning by confining its use and purpose. In this paper we catagorize the process of signifying clothes that appears in the Byongkut as follows : first removing the clothes, secondly putting on the clothes, and thirdly burning off the clothes. Removing the clothes is a process of dramatic realization and clearly shows proven facts about the things that will occur in the process. Putting on the clothes is a process of falsified expression in which the interest is transferred from the person who wears the clothes to the clothes itself by the shaman's insinuation who leads an interpretation about the clothes. Buring off the clothes is a pro-cess of mystification in which the end of Byongkut is sublimated mistiriously by making the partici-pants believe with the burning that the clothes and the diseases have been curred, and therefore, the ritual is kept from spoiling. The clothes used in Byongkut that religious belief and belief system are expressed through behavior style, and that supernatural power is designed to reveal is related with the various aspects of symbolic life indicated by the clothes.

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외나로도지역의 의생활 (Dressing Practices of Residents at the Woinarodo Region)

  • 권영숙;이주영
    • 복식
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    • 제52권6호
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    • pp.25-39
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

현재 우리나라 가톨릭 사제복에 나타난 상징성 연구 (A Study on the Symbols of Ritual Dress in Koran catholic Church)

  • 김희선
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.69-80
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    • 1993
  • This research studied the classification and meanings of symbols on the clothes of he Koran catholic priest. The results are as follows. 1) Symbol of religios spirits and values. - There are many spirits of crist which require to keep and meanings of innocence. 2) Symbol of status - served to symbolize the conscious change from earthy to ordaned man. 3) Symbol of role - differentiate between the role of priest and aid-priest. 4) Symbol of position(or rank) - indicate the position of priests in catholic church. 5) Symbol of situation. 6) Symbol of ritual ceremony - characterized the ritual ceremony.

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지리산 남악제(南岳祭) 제례복식(祭禮服飾)에 관한 제언 (A Study about Historical Research on Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje)

  • 이영주;이상은
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제16권4호
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 2014
  • This study is intended to historical research the Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje. Joseon Dynasty established Five Manners as a country-ruling policy on the basis of Confucianism, the religious clothes-wearing method has been established through Sejong Silok Five Manners and the ritual robes system of all the government officials has been handed down to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The ritual robes of all the government officials was worn at the timed of the religious ceremony included ritual manners, and ritual robes are composed of Yanggwan, Ui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Hwan, Wu(a cord, a leather belt, a belt, jade, a mace, Bangsimgokryeong, Mal, Ri, etc., and the rank was classified by the number of the veritical line of Ynaggwan, a leather belt, Hwan, Wu and jade and typeof a mace. "Jongmyouigwe" during the reign of king Sukjong described exactly the Uicha and textile of the ritual robes at that time, the textile Ui used Heukju as same as "Jegiakgidogamuigwe", and jade was used only in case of the first rank ritual official and other government officials did not wear jase. Also, it was revealed that all officials used a wooden mace, and in case of Husu, the first rank ritual official used Jikseong and other official used a picture.

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『세종실록(世宗實錄)』, 「오례(五禮)」에 기록된 배표의 절차와 복식 연구 (A Study on the Bapyo Ritual Procedures and Costumes Recorded in the Five rituals of Sejong-Silok)

  • 김진홍;조우현
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제56권1호
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    • pp.142-160
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    • 2023
  • 배표의(拜表儀)는 황제에게 보내는 외교문서인 표문(表文)에 치르던 의례로, 세종 대에 행하여진 배표의에 참여하는 사람들의 직책과 그에 따른 복식을 살펴보았다. 의례 주체자인 왕은 최고 법복인 면복을 착용하였고, 면복은 구류평천관에 구장복으로 구성된다. 왕세자와 종친, 문무백관은 조복인 양관과 적라의를 착용하였다. 왕세자의 조복은 세종 10년에 오량관에서 육량관으로 바뀌었고, 문종 즉위년에 왕세자의 면복을 받아서 단종 이후에는 팔류평천관과 칠장곤복을 착용하였다. 사행원인 사자와 종사관은 상복을 착용하였다. 사자가 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 서대, 협금화이고, 종사관이 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 흑각대, 흑피화이다. 왕의 측근에서 시종하는 별감은 공복과 상복을 착용하였다. 공복은 자건에 청단령과 흑피화, 상복은 주황초립과 직령에 조아, 흑피화로 구성되었다. 의장군은 황의장과 왕의 의장이 진열되었고, 산과 개, 수정장, 금월부를 들고 있는 자는 자건에 청의를, 전도황기는 피모자에 청의를 착용하였다. 선과 금은횡과·금은입과·금은장도는 피모자에 홍의를 착용하였다. 시위군은 갑옷과 투구에 검 또는 궁시를 갖추어 착용하였다. 공인 중 악사의 복식은 복두에 비공복, 금동혁대, 비백대대, 오피리로 구성되었고, 악생은 개책에 비수란삼, 협고, 말대, 말, 오피리로 구성되었다. 이상의 결과로 세종 대에 의례복식이 의제화되는 과정을 확인할 수 있었다. 배표의에 참여하는 왕 이하 왕세자, 문무백관, 사자, 별감, 시위군, 공인 모두 각 품계에 맞는 최고 등급의 예복을 착용하였다. 세종은 유교를 바탕으로 한 국가를 건설하고자 거듭된 논의를 거쳐 각 의례와 그에 따른 복식을 정비하였고, 배표의 복식도 직책별로 체계적으로 갖추어졌다. 세종 대에 정리된 의례복식은 예전에 규정화되어 조선 후기까지 이어질 수 있는 기틀이 되었다.

조선시대 의궤 반차도를 통한 왕실의례복식 콘텐츠 제작 (Content Production for Royal Rituals Attire through Uigwe Banchado in the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 차서연
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제43권4호
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    • pp.521-531
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    • 2019
  • Uigwe Banchado are paintings of court events and royal ceremonies of the Joseon dynasty. The paintings record national events and ceremonial rituals performed by the Joseon royal family, such as marriages, celebrations, enthronements, processions to royal tombs, and archery ceremonies. This record provides a combination of information about the event's appearance, including preparation, procedure, people involved, reproductions worn by the participants, and the items used at that time. Through the realistic depictions painted in the Uigwe Banchado, in particular, one can grasp the scene of events at the time and reproduce the diverse attire worn by participants in the event. Based on 31 representative Uigwe Banchado, 550 knowledge nodes were written. These include 31 royal protocols, 41 attires, 136 clothes, 8 storage facilities, 120 objects, 55 people, 33 places and 83 concepts. The meaningful relationships between each node can be explored via a network graph. Digital illustrations of the 41 attires were created to aid in the understanding of Joseon dynasty royal ceremonial ritual attire.

조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po -)

  • 이선재
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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근대 아동한복 연구 (Korean Traditional Children's Clothes in Modern Times)

  • 조효숙;최은수
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제45권1호
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    • pp.63-73
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    • 2007
  • Korean children's clothes have unique aesthetic characteristics distinguished from other countries'. Our folk beliefs handed down from ancient times always contained fortune - seeking thoughts and particularly mothers' earnest wishes for the happiness of their children were sublimated into the symbolic beauty of their children's clothes. The present study examined children's clothes in the royal family and among the people for 50 years of the transitional period from the late Joseon Dynasty to modern times, by classifying them into ritual dress for new-born babies, festival dress and everyday dress. Male children's clothes included caps such as Bokgeon(복건), Hogeon(호건) and Gulle(굴레) topcoats such as Durumagi(두루마기), Sagyusam(사규삼) Koija(쾌자) and Jeonbok(전복) and others such as Magoja(마고자), Baeja(배자), Joggi(조끼) and Bajijeogori(바지저고리), Female children's clothes included caps and head ornaments such as Gulle, Jobawi(조바위) and Daenggi(댕기) and others such as Durumagi, Jegori and Chima(치마). What is interesting is that old clothes handed down to the present are mostly boys' and few of them are girls'. This is probably because of the strong preference for boys rather than girls that continued until the end of the 20th century. Ordinary people dressed their new - born babies with simple white clothes until Samchilil (the 21st day) or Baekil (the 100thday) but, for these occasions, the royal family prepared clothes as formal as those for the $1^{st}$ birthday among the public. Rainbow-striped garments were more popular among the public than in the royal family. As rainbow colors were known to Korean people to dispel evil power and bring in fortunes, rainbow - striped garments were essential for the $1^{st}$ birthday and festive days. However, they were seldom used in ordinarytimes, and most boys and girls wore plain jackets and plain topcoats. When children's clothes in noble families were compared with royal family's ones, either handed down to the present or found in old literature, no significant difference was observed in the basic composition of everyday dress. In particular, it was found that Andong Kim's family had dressed their children with very formal dress such as Dopo and Sagyusam. Among children's clothes, the most gorgeous one was that worn on the $1^{st}$ birthday, and those for other occasions or festive days were similar or simpler. Colors, patterns and designs used in decorating children's clothes mostly had the meanings of seeking fortunes for children such as long life, wealth and prosperity.

상장례문화의 변화에 따른 수의연구 (A Study on the Shroud, according to Change of Mourning & Funeral Custom)

  • 이민주
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제8권6호
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    • pp.887-898
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    • 2000
  • Mourning & funeral ritual means a various kinds of ritual procedures which begins at the time of death, buried and created a graveyard, a manner of wearing funeral garment being mourning the death, finally go back to everyday life. Our mourning & funeral custom was burial at first time. After going through the era of the Three kingdoms, The unified Shilla and Korea dynasty, cremation method has been prevailed. However, based on Chu-tzu celebration in Chosun dynasty, the burial custom has been widely spread again. Nowadays, due to effective land utilization issue, excessive cost for burial and the change of thinking for cremation, the cremation is recognized as remedy of righteous funeral system. At this point, a shroud following existing burial custom burdens considerably for quality, price, size and design of it. Accordingly, it needs anew style of shroud corresponding to cremation system. As an alternative, the shroud is required simplification and standardization ; Firstly, in size, a shroud should be larger than plain clothes and differentiated in small, medium and large. Secondly, the material of a shroud would be white cotton, which can keep from pollution during burning time. Thirdly, it unifies the item. In case of man, 바지(把特, those are trousers), 저고리(赤古里, Korean-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat). In case of woman, 치마(赤 , those are skirt), 저고리(赤古里, Koran-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat).

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