• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.