• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.452-459
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of reference fabric for the tactile sensation of worsted fabrics. As specimens, 32 worsted fabrics for spring/fall suits were selected. A series of subjective evaluation for roughness, harshness, coarseness, smoothness, warmth, bulkiness and softness were performed with 20 trained panels. The panels were selected by the test of consistency and trained for 3 weeks to enhance the reproducibility and consistency. Subjective evaluation was performed using 9 points Semantic Differential Scales with and without reference fabric. Results showed that the sensations were very similar between the results for the test of with or without reference. However the standard deviations of ratings for the with-reference were much less than that of without-reference which means the use of reference fabric can reduce the subjective error or can reduce the number of panels to test.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.168-175
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• 2003

Ultramicrofiber(UMF) PET knitted fabric and regular PET plain woven fabric as reference sample were impregnated with waterborne polyurethane(PU) in a two-step process with dyeing/PU treatment and PU treatment/dyeing to investigate the effect of the treatment sequence. The waterborne PU impregnated fabrics were dyed with two kinds of vat and disperse dyes to investigate the dyeing properties and the dyeing fastnesses. In vat dyeing the rank of color strength(K/S) was in order of dyeing/PU impregnation > dyeing only > PU impregnation/dyeing, whereas in case of disperse dyeing, the order was dyeing/PU impregnation > PU impregnation/dyeing >dyeing only. Wash fastness of vat dyeing showed a higher 2-3 grade than disperse dyeing, while rubbing and light fastnesses were not good for disperse dyes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 2001

Textile wet-processing industry usually five rise to environmental pollution problems caused by using chemical substance. The objective of this study is to apply enzymes for wool and reduce the environmental problems. Three commercial protein degradation enzymes and a cellulose degradation enzyme as a reference were treated to prevent the shrinkage of wool fabric on laundering. Shrink resistant effects used change with the kinds of enzyme, the amount of enzyme, assistant chemicals, and the pre-treatment condition of wool fabric. When pre-treated with corona before enzyme treatment under ultrasonic condition, the weight loss was increased and strength was decreased and elongation was increased. Both corona pre-treatment and the addition of $Na_2SO_4$ also decreased shrinkage of wool fabrics on laundering. The existence of assistant chemicals increased alkali solubility of wool fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2019

The effect of microstructure on the permeability of two saturated marine clays was studied through a series of falling head permeability tests and mercury intrusion porosimetry (MIP) tests. The key findings from this experimental study include the following results: (1) The permeability of undisturbed specimens is larger than that of reconstituted specimens at the same void ratio due to different soil fabrics, i.e., the pore size distributions (PSDs), even though they have the similar variation law in the permeability versus void ratio. (2) Different permeabilities of undisturbed and reconstituted specimens at the same void ratio are mainly caused by the difference in void ratio of macro-pores based on the MIP test results. (3) A high relevant relation between $C_k$ ($C_k$ is the permeability change index) and $e*_{10}$, can be found by normalizing the measured data both on undisturbed or reconstituted specimens. Hence, the reference void ratio $e*_{10}$, can be used as a reasonable parameter to identify the effect of soil fabric on the permeability of saturated soft clays.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.118-130
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to measure the touching stimulus level of EEG for fabrics to create a reference data for product planning of clothes with touching characteristics of high satisfaction. The subjects were composed of 6 female college students and their EEG level was measured while they touched 6 kinds of Korean traditional silk fabric. The results are as follows: 1. Shantung and Myoungju showed the highest and the lowest values of alpha for the touching stimulus respectively. The fabric of Shantung showed high values of alpha, beta, theta, delta, gamma, high-beta and SMR for the touching stimulus. 2. The values of beta were the highest with Shantung and the lowest with Nobangju for the touching stimulus. 3. The highest values of theta and delta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa. 4. The highest values of gamma for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gongdan. 5. The highest value of SMR for the touching stimulus was assigned to Santung, and the lowest belonged to Gongdan and Nobangju. 6. The highest values of high-beta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa and Gongdan.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.62-71
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• 2006

These days there are plenty of studies that predict a future with rapid technological development. The development of new technology also has greatly changed the fashion industry. Materials were developed with a variety of techniques, and recently as the exterior and property of materials have been brought into focus, regarding images as a trend of fashion. The purpose of this study is to consider the kinds and characteristics of diverse future materials developed by high technological advancement and to present a new course for future materials by analyzing the formative characteristics of future fashion with future materials. The methods of this work are an examination by reference to theoretical study about the conceptions of futurism in fashion and a visual analysis of the materials in picture data. Another topic of study was the positive source of future fashion that actually applies to these materials. The study makes an analysis of future characteristics expressed in modern fashion, looking at the background and developmental course of futurism. It considers the conception, types and characteristics of diverse new flexible materials such as metal, non-woven fabric, Styrofoam, rubber, glass fiber and polished fiber. With all of these works, we would like to express the course for the development of coming future fashion and the potential of an appropriate union between sensitivity and science.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.