• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.143-153
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is provide fundamental data on a suitable sizes of ready-to-wear for women. The subjects of the survey were 300 female of 18 to 24 years old. They were measured direct anthropometry. Height, bust girth, waist girth and hip girth were grouped by KS interval. Data were analyzed by use of Cross Tab method. The results of this study were as follows. Body group of the anthropometric measurements were summed up as follows. Height was divided into 4 section(155-170), bust girth was divided into 7 section(76-94), waist girth was divided into 6 section(61-76) and hip girth was divided into 9 section(84-100). The characteristics of cross tab can be summarized as follows. Section with application ratio are 155-160cm of height, 82-85cm for bust girth, 64-70cm for waist girth and 86-94cm for hip girth. The sizes of high cover ratio of well-fitting jacket, dress, coat and one-piece was 17 sizes, well-fitting an upper garment and the whole body garment item except that was 16 sizes, and a lower garment was 21 sizes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.254-260
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the actual condition toward the clothing of senior males' and perception of male's formal wear companies for silver market through a survey targeting senior males and clothing companies. The survey was conducted targeting 196 senior males and chief-patterners of 7 companies' 10 brands. The questionnaire distributed to senior males was consisted of 22 items regarding the perception and satisfaction on clothes. And 12 items concerning the perception of senior male clothing brands and the size system was developed for clothing companies. The results of the study are as follows. The study revealed that most senior males perceived that brand clothing for them was necessary. More than half of the respondents were not satisfied with ready-made clothes. And many senior males prefer ready-made clothing when they purchase their clothes. For these reasons, senior males apparel market might be promising. Currently, the perception of male's formal wear companies on the need of brand was high. However, considering that brand launching might be difficult to be realized soon I presume that size spectrum based on body size of senior males is necessary which reflect their physical characteristics and activities.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.455-463
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the actual conditions of clothing of disabled adult men using wheelchair, to understand dissatisfactions and problems in wearing garment, and to construct basic data to development of the formal wear for wheelchair user. This study conducted survey of 162 men using wheelchair who regularly enjoy the sports for disabled people or who work in society. The results of this study are follows. The majority of wheelchair user tend to wear garment lying or seating. Therefore, they prefer garments that can be easily put on and off. They were dissatisfied mostly with the size of ready-made garment. More than 75% of the subjects tend to repair the purchased formal wear. Shoulder width and bust circumference are too small, jacket length, sleeve length, and slacks length are too big for disabled men using wheelchair. More than 93% subjects tend to prefer T-shirts, because of comfort and easiness to move. The men using wheelchair consider the function and the hygiene of fabric material for T-shirts as the important end.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.304-311
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• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.128-136
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• 2002

This study was initiated to study suitability of the apparel sizing systems that utilized in women's ready-to-wear market. To achieve this, the researchers surveyed 383 women from the ages of 18 through 59. The result of this study are followed. 1) The targeted age of the apparel brand does not always correspond with the purchaser's age. The subjects tend to prefer the brands targeting younger women than their age. The women who prefer the brand targeting younger women than their age were less satisfied with the jacket size available in Korean apparel market. They also took into consideration their body size. 2) The subjects who prefer the brands aimed for younger women were dissatisfied with fit at waist and hips. 3) The result of this study also shows that the more sizes are needed for short and tall women. The subjects pointed out that hips of the pants gave worst fit. 4) KS standard size designation system which listed body measurements bust-hips stature was not well known to the consumers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.