• Title/Summary/Keyword: Punk Couture

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A Study on Fashion Design of Vivienne Westwood -Focusing on since 1980's - (비비안 웨스트우드 디자인 연구(硏究)-1980년대(年代) 이후(以後)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Kim, Gil-La;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.14-31
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    • 2007
  • The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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A Study on the Haute Goth Fashion (오뜨 고스(Haute Goth) 패션에 대한 연구)

  • Lee, Yu-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.127-138
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    • 2011
  • The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

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The Social Aspects and Costumes of the 1980's Expressed in the Movie 'American Psycho' (영화 '아메리칸 사이코'에 나타난 1980년대의 사회상과 복식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hye-Jeong;Park, Ji-Hoon
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.12
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    • pp.117-126
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    • 2006
  • A movie's fashion style delivers the overall atmosphere of the scene including the characters's class, personality, spiritual world and inner thinking and even their conflicts in the story. The movie 'American Psycho' directed by Mary Harron and based on from Bret Easton Ellis's original novel ridicules the American yuppie culture of the 1980's through the behavior of the hero Patrick Bateman. The life style of the yuppie sees itself as the high-class embodiment of a particular culture, but the various subcultures such as Glam and Punk show that it is merely a two-faced culture suffering from hypocrisy and mammonism. An analysis of the costumes found in the movie indicated an exhibition of the 1980's Haute Couture fashion, which was mainly occupied by the mainstream social class and of the social phenomenon of post-modernism. The anti-fashion presented in the movie as the resistance culture formed by the subculture was in extreme contrast with the expression of self-actualization.