• 생약학회지
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.70-78
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• 2022

The objective of this study was to assess the effect of preventing pigmentation caused by external stimuli, promoting skin regeneration and whitening of the skin composition containing complex extract of Dendrobii Caulis and Centella asiatica (CE). We evaluated cell viability, tyrosinase and melanin inhibition activity, skin irritation test, and skin moisturizing and regenerative effects using CE. As a result of the tyrosinase inhibitory activity, 100 ㎍/mL CE (35.31%) showed higher value than kojic acid (21.32%). The results of melanin synthesis inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells after treatment with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone showed a similar level of activity to that of arbutin, indicating an excellent whitening effect. In clinical test of the skin composition containing CE, we confirmed that CE is non-irritated in human skin primary irritation test as well as have a high skin moisturizing and regenerative effect. From these results, we suggested the CE not only prevents skin damage and pigmentation caused by external stimuli but has remarkable skin brightening activity and skin regeneration effect.

• 동의생리병리학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.384-395
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• 2018

The aim of this study was to investigate whether a novel formulation of an herbal extracts has an inhibitory effect on obesity. To determine its anti-obesity effects, we performed anti-obesity-related experiments in vitro and in vivo. Thus, our present study was carried out to evaluate the anti-obesity effect of herbal extracts using a high fat diet (HFD)-induced obese mouse model and 3T3-L1 adipose cells. The effects of each herbal extracts on lipid accumulation in 3T3-L1 cells were examined using Oil Red O staining. Results showed that treatment with each herbal extracts at $10{\sim}100{\mu}g/ml$ had no effect on cell morphology and viability. Without evidence of toxicity, herbal extracts treatment decreased lipid accumulation compared with the untreated adipocytes controls as shown by the lower absorbance of Oil Red O stain. Futhermore, compared with control-differentiated mature adipocytes, each herbal extracts significantly inhibited lipid accumulation in mature 3T3-L1 adipocytes. In the HFD-fed obese mice, body weight, liver weight and white adipose tissue weights were significantly reduced by mixture of herbal extracts administration in mouse skin. Futhermore, we found that mixture of herbal extracts administration suppressed serum triglyceride (TG), and total cholesterol (TCHO) in HFD-induced obese mouse model. The mixture of herbal extracts of permeability was estimated by measuring the transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value in pig skin. The optimized formulations of herbal extracts (Test 3 formulation) showed skin permeation. However, test 1 formulation containing essential oil as enhancer showed maximum skin permeation. After confirming the enhanced skin permeability, in vivo studies were performed to assess whether skin irritation potential on the basis of a primary irritation index (PII) in rabbit skin. Reactions were scored for erythema/edema reactions at 24 h, 48 h and 72 h post-application. It was concluded that the test 1 formulation was not irritation (PII = 0). The present study suggests that the test 1 formulation might be of therapeutic interest with respect to the treatment of obesity.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.64-80
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• 1991

The SKINTEX Method is based on a two-compartment physico-chemical model which includes a Biomembrane Barrier in compartment one and an organized macromolecular matrix in compartment two. Test samples absorb onto or permeate through the keratin/collagen Biomembrane Barrier and then can interact with the organized macromolecular matrix. Changes in the integrity of the barrier release a dye indicator: Changes in the matrix can alter its transparency. The sum of these two responses is read spectrophotometrically at 470nm. An early investigation of 950 chemicals and formulations in the SKINTEX System produced results which were 89% concordance to in vivo Draize dermal irritation results obtained with 24-hour occluded application of test samples with-out abrasion and standard scoring. Alkaline materials were analyzed in a specialized SKINTEX AMA Protocol. In this early study, the model did not distinguish nonirritant test materials and formulation with PDII(Primary Dermal Irritation Index)in the range from 0 to 1.2, A High Sensitivity Assay Protocol(HSA)was developed to amplify the changes in both compartments of this model and provide more accurate calibration of these changes. A study of 60 low irritation test samples including cosmetics, household products, chemicals and petro-chemicals distinguished nonirritants with PDII $\leq$ 0.7 for 26 of 30 nonirritants. A second protocol was developed to evaluate the SKINTEX model predictability with respect to human irritation. The Human Response Assay (HRA )has been optimized based on differences in penetration and irritation responses in humans and rabbits. An additional 32 test materials with different mechanisms and degrees of dermal toxicity were evaluated by the HRA. These in vitro results were 86% concordant to human patch test results. In order to further evaluate this model, a Standard Chemical Labelling (SCL) Protocol was developed to optimize this system to predict Draize dermal irritation results after a 4-hour application of the test material. In a study of 52 chemicals including acids, bases, solvents, salts, surfactants and preservatives, the SCL results demonstrated 85% concordance to Draize results for a 4-hour application of test samples on non-abraded rabbit skin. The SKINTEX System, including three specialized protocols, provided results which demonstrated good correlation to the endpoint of dermal irritation in man and rabbits at different application times.

• 생약학회지
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• 제37권1호통권144호
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• pp.16-20
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• 2006

The protective effects of the aqueous MeOH extracts of stem and root Acanthopanax koreanum Nakai against oxidative stress were investigated. Anti-oxidant activity of the stem extract of A. koreanum was observed in the DPPH free radical scavenging $(IC_{50}=58.7\;{\mu}g/ml)$ and the SOD test $(IC_{50}=17.52\;{\mu}g/ml)$. According to data analysis of cell survival ratio of normal fibroblasts, the skin irritation by both extracts from A. koreanum was concerned. However, in the skin primary parch test, both extracts obtained Grade I, which means that there was no skin irritation. After induction of oxidative irritation, cell survival ratio of normal fibroblasts was also monitored and it turned out that stress-inducing group with both extracts had more increased cell survival ratio. The cell extension of the stress-inducing group treated with the stem extract was most dominant in morphological study. Based on these results, the stem extract of A. koreanum showed the protective effect against oxidative stress on normal fibroblast.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.43-49
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• 2005

최근, 민감성 피부가 증가함에 따라 화장품의 안전성이 매우 중요시되고 있으며, 특히 방부제는 화장품 사용에 따른 부작용을 일으킬 수 있는 주요 자극원의 하나로 알려져 있다. 하지만, 방부제의 세포 독성 피부 투과, 유/수 분배, 항균력 비교 및 이를 통한 피부 자극과의 상관성 분석에 관한 연구는 전무한 실정이다. 본 연구의 목적은 상기의 여러 factor를 고려하여 화장품에서 빈번히 사용되고 있는 방부제의 하나인 phenoxyethanol을 이용한 저자극 방부시스템 개발에 관한 것이다. MTT assay를 통하여 human norm기 fibroblast cell에 대한 독성을 평가해 본 결과, 세포 독성은 propylparaben>butylparaben>ethylparaben>methylparaben>triciosan>phenoxyethanol 순으로 확인되어 phenoxyethanol이 다른 방부제에 비해 낮은 세포 독성을 나타낸 반면, 피부 일차자극을 알아보기 위하여 수행한 인체 첩포시험에서는 triclosan, methylparaben에 비해 높은 피부 자극을 나타내었다. 5 ${\~}$ 8 주령의 웅성 무모생쥐의 피부를 적출하여 in vitro Franz diffusion cell system을 이용한 방부제의 피부 투과도를 측정하여 본 결과, 피부 투과도는 phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylparaben > triclosan 순으로 확인되어 세포 독성이 낮은 phenoxyethanol의 높은 피부 자극이 높은 피부 투과도와 연관성이 큰 것을 확인하였다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 비교적 독성이 낮은 phenoxyethanol의 피부 투과도를 감소시킬 수 있는 방법을 찾고자 하였으며, 연구 결과, 제형내 polarity가 낮은 oil을 사용할 경우 phenoxyethanol의 피부 투과가 현격히 감소하며, 피부 자극도 감소함을 알 수 있었다. Oil polarity에 따른 Phenoxyethanol의 유/수 분배 측정 결과, Polarity가 낮은 oil에서는 $70\%$ 이상의 Phenoxyethanol이 수상에 존재한 반면, polarity가 높은 oil에서는 약 $70 {\~} 90\%$의 phenoxyethanol이 유상에 존재하였다. 또한, 미생물에 대한 항균력도 phenoxyethanol이 수상에 많이 존재할수록 증가하는 경향을 나타내었다. 따라서, 제형 내 oil tomposition을 변화시킴으로써 phenoxyethanol의 사용량을 줄일 수 있을 뿐만 아니라, 피부 투과를 감소시켜 보다 피부 자극이 적은 저자극 방부시스템 개발이 가능하리라 보여 진다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.257-261
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• 2006

본 연구에서는 화장품에 빈번히 사용되고 있는 다양한 자극원에 대한 종대황추출물의 자극 완화효과를 알아보기 위한 연구에 관한 것이다. 종대황추출물의 각질형성세포에서의 항염증 효과를 조사하기 위하여, 배양된 인간 각질형성세포에서 분비되는 사이토카인인 IL-8과 TNF${\alpha}$의 량을 측정하였다. 그 결과 종대황추출물은 농도 의존적으로 상기 사이토카인의 분비를 억제하였다. 사람 피부에서 3 mM methyl nicotinate에 의해 유발된 자극성 피부염의 항염증 효과를 평가한 결과, 종대황 추출물이 함유된 제품의 도포 부위에서 홍반이 유의하게 감소하였다. 인체첩포시험에서는 5.0% 락틱산이 함유된 제형에 종대황추출물을 첨가 할 경우 우수한 자극 억제 효과를 보여주었다. 또한 사용성 시험을 실시한 결과, 종대황추출물을 함유한 O/W 에멀젼에서 우수한 항자극 효과를 보임을 확인하였다.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.184-191
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• 2003

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.35-40
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• 2002

We prepared a novel dosage form, peel-off type soft hydrogel using poly(vinyl alcohol), and evaluated the effect of skin penetration enhancer on the indomethacin release from soft hydrogel by in vitro permeation and in vivo absorption test. In this study, we used four enhancers-urea, dimethyl urea, 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl urea, and pirotiodecane (1-[2(decylthio)ethyl]azacyclopentane-2-one, $HPE-101^{circledR}$). In addition, we evaluated the primary skin irritation test of soft hydrogel using rabbit. From these results, we could find the pirotiodecane was a prominent enhancer, and soft hydrogel seemed to be safe and have no irritancy.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.67-83
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• 1995

생체내 피부 자극은 일련의 복합적인 생리 화학적 변화를 수반한다. 이러한 생체내 현상을 보다 민감하게 반영하고, 동물 시험 경감 측면 및 정확성, 재현성을 보완하기 위하여 자극 물질 검색을 위한 대체 시험법이 필요하게 되었다. CAMVA는 이러한 필요성에 의해 고안된 방법의 하나로써 약 10일된 유정란의 복합적인 혈관이 융합된 장뇨막내에 자극 물질을 투여하고 일정 시간 후, 막 내 혈관의 충혈, 출혈, 응집현상 등의 변화를 통해 자극 정도를 평가하는 in vitro 시험계이다. 본 연구에서는 화장품 영역에서 중요한 위치를 차지하는 계면활성제의 자극 정도를 검색하여 in vitro 시험법인 CAMVA와 in vivo 시험법간의 상관성을 조사하였으며, 그 결과 매우 높은 상관성을 나타냄을 알 수 있었다. 그러므로 CAMVA는 안 자극 시험의 대체 시험법 뿐만 아니라 피부자극의 예측에도 적용 가능한 유용한 시험법이라 생각된다.