• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 1996

The aim of this study is to get the basic data to design the clothing for the female teachers. In this study, we survey the practice of the wear in the spring and the fall of the 422 female teachers in primary, middle and high school, and their wearing sensation according to clothing construction factors. The results are as follows: first, the female teachers frequently wear blouse and skirt, jacket and blouse, jacket and T-shirts, cardigan and T-shirts in upper wear. Second, most female teachers had troubles in their clothing at work. They had serious troubles in writing on the blackboard, due to the improper form and. length of the sleeves, and the inconvenience of their skirt is due to the improper length, while they go up the strains. Third, the comfortable factors of the female teachers' blouse are as follows; round neck line, soutien and peter pan collar, sleeve attatched bodice with a little loose armhole, $10{\sim}20cm$ under from waist in length, front slit, and fastening bottons. In case of skirt, they perceive A-lined, flared, pleats skirt more convieniently than tight one, which are 10cm under from kneeline in length, side fastening system, back slit.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.15-21
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• 2005

Use of a glove made of materials with a low elasticity decreases the performance of the hand such as agility, dexterity, range of motion, and grip strength. The present study examined if the adverse effects of a low-elastic glove can be reduced by a design which accommodates the changes of hand surface lengths by hand motion. Two glove designs which provide patches of elastic cloth and pleats at the finger joints and knuckle were developed by considering the hand surface length changes, and then compared with two conditions(bare hand and conventional glove design that does not consider the dynamic characteristics of the hand dimensions) in terms of completion time in peg board insertion task, maximum grip strength, discomfort in hand motion, discomfort in force exertion, and overall discomfort by 24 right-handed participants. The test results confirmed that wearing of a glove significantly reduced the agility and grip strength capability of the hand and indicated that the novel designs were effective to lessen the performance decreases compared to the conventional design. Also, of the glove designs, the pleat glove design was found most preferred for both better hand performance and less subjective discomfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.159-178
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• 1998

Genres of the modern arts are expanding the overlapping area between the arts ; ceramics and weaving considered as crafts are devel-oped to the ceramic art and the fiber art, re-spectively. This trend has been also applied to the clothing part, which produced several new terms such as‘art to wear’,‘unwearable art’,‘clothing sculpture’and so on. As following this tendency, the unwearable art is dwelling on the boundary of painting, fiber art and scul-pture, and the clothing sculpture comes from the combination of fiber art and sculpture. While Issey Miyake's dress made of bamboo and Foltuny's pleats dress associated with Greek stone-column introduce the sculpture to the functional fashion design, the works of clothing sculpture become the arts by applying the sculpture to the non-functional unwearable art. Although the clothing sculpture is an interesting subject to be studied continuously for its effect on the contemporary clothing part, it is valuable enough as an unwearable art and sculpture respresenting the artist's concept under the circumstance that the boundary between arts and design is no longer clear, i.e., the clothing and the sculpture come across their regions each other. Furthermore, the clothing sculpture has its own value as a metapor exposing idea, feeling and spirit of the artist in the genre of the unwearable art. With a view point of the abstract clothing concept, the clothing sculpture has been taking the role expanding the clothing to the world of fine art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.97-113
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• 2011

To develop the work clothes for the employees in the mechatronics industry in South Korea, a questionnaire survey on many aspects of the work clothes such as type, color, detailed design and function preference of the subject employees has been carried out in the study. The results throughout the survey highlighted certain functions such as extensibility, thermal and air permeability of importance for the work clothing performance. To improve the discomfort caused by some work motions (i.e. squatting down, ascending/descending the stairs, raising arms), more allowances were given to the measurements (i.e. body rise + 2cm and crotch depth + 1cm for squatting down pose; thigh circumference + 1cm and knee circumference + 1cm for ascending/ descending the stairs pose; chest circumference + 5~6cm and jumper length to the level of hip circumference line for raising arms pose) for work clothes patternmaking. The evaluation of the two types of spring/summer and winter work clothes' clothing comfort and wearer mobility suggested certain points to improve the clothing performance (e.g. ventilation slits on the back pleats, arm pits and collar band of the spring/summer suit using net material and lining for the winter suit using quilted thermal materials) and wearer mobility (e.g. pants hem buckles for the easy work motion), which also enabled to fulfill the workers' work clothes design preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.433-439
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• 2004

Hanji costumes has four aspects that allow the creator or artist to create many variations. The pictorial effects of Hanji costumes are produced through variations in the dyes and brushes used for its application. The amount of water and texture of the Hanji mixture also influences the Hanji clothing. This effect was expressed using a dry brush technique, a dripping technique, India inks, and fragments from other Hanji works. A second aspect of Hanji clothing is the coloring effect in the Hanji costumes. The coloring is due to the fibers in the preparation mixture and the uniqueness of the dyes. The Hanji clothing was dyed various colors and patterns by dip dyeing, block dyeing, silk screens, digital printing. The third aspect of Hanji imagination in clothing is the decorative details. The details in Hanji clothing can be seen using frills, pleats, tucks and ribbons. The last variation of Hanji clothing can be expressed through crafting techniques. These techniques are the quality of paper string, cuts in the paper and paste ingredients. With Hanji cloth, it is possible to plait, roll, and crample into other flexible & useful materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.16-25
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop pattern of a Upper Garment Prototype for late elementary school aged girls. The body of late elementary school aged girls changes steadily up to the adult and is characterized by its periodic noticeable physical distinctions. This study is selected a test pattern from 3 existing patterns through a preliminary wearing test, conducted wearing tests, and sensory evaluations three times to review and improve the pattern, and presented the pattern of late elementary school aged girls. The research pattern was developed considering aesthetic and functional aspect. The average score of sensory evaluation on appearance was 4.13 for the research pattern, which was higher than 2.74 for the test pattern. The according to the results of verifying significant differences in the test items between the two patterns through the t-test, in the items such as pleats in the line of a waist, the ease of the girth of a waist, the location of shoulder line was superior to the test pattern. The average score of the sensory evaluation on functionality was 4.91 for the research pattern, which was higher than 3.90 for the test pattern. The research pattern is superior to the test pattern in static posture, dynamic posture than the test pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.347-362
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• 2012

The analysis results of the characteristics of children's clothes for school girls from the 2006S/S-2010S/S collections reveal that the most frequent type of item composition was 2'PS & 3'PS. T-shirts were the popular kind of item for upper garments and pants for lower garments. The major silhouettes were H and A line. The predominant neckline was U, which was followed by camisole and V. The major collar styles were stand-up and flat. Chromatic colors were used more than achromatic ones and after white the most popular colors were blue, pink, red, black, navy, and green. The dominant color scheme was a two-color or three-color scheme. The percentage of solid and patterned material garments was the highest and the most popular pattern was flowers. The most popular style of garment had no decorative detail that was followed by one-item, two-item, and three-item decoration. The major kinds of decorative detail were frills, pleats, and prints.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.307-313
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to investigated characteristics of many pleated skirt of Miao women's Guizhou province in China. The method of this study is referd to sundry recordes and demonstrated traditional clothing of several region in Guizhou province. The most important characteristic of the costume of the Miao is the many pleated skirt, worn by most but not all groups. Pleats are pulled into place with a sharp pointed instrument and sprinkled constantly with starch. The length of the pleated skirt depends on the group. The long skirts reach to the ankle, the medium-sized to the shank and the short ones not below the knee. The design of the pleated skirt is simple but most pleated skirt ornamented with fine, cross-stiched or batic designs of geometrical figures. The figures decorated on the pleated skirt has been handed down with little change from generation to generation and has become an important mark of Miao women's each area. Seeing the many pleated skirt of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty, it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristics of almost perfect costume.