• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.887-898
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• 2000

Mourning & funeral ritual means a various kinds of ritual procedures which begins at the time of death, buried and created a graveyard, a manner of wearing funeral garment being mourning the death, finally go back to everyday life. Our mourning & funeral custom was burial at first time. After going through the era of the Three kingdoms, The unified Shilla and Korea dynasty, cremation method has been prevailed. However, based on Chu-tzu celebration in Chosun dynasty, the burial custom has been widely spread again. Nowadays, due to effective land utilization issue, excessive cost for burial and the change of thinking for cremation, the cremation is recognized as remedy of righteous funeral system. At this point, a shroud following existing burial custom burdens considerably for quality, price, size and design of it. Accordingly, it needs anew style of shroud corresponding to cremation system. As an alternative, the shroud is required simplification and standardization ; Firstly, in size, a shroud should be larger than plain clothes and differentiated in small, medium and large. Secondly, the material of a shroud would be white cotton, which can keep from pollution during burning time. Thirdly, it unifies the item. In case of man, 바지(把特, those are trousers), 저고리(赤古里, Korean-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat). In case of woman, 치마(赤　, those are skirt), 저고리(赤古里, Koran-style jacket) and Durumagi(周衣, Korean topcoat).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in color, pattern, and texture of functional materials of outdoor clothing according to new senior women's psychological comfort. The data were collected from 163 female respondents aged 55-64 living in Busan. The results of the study are as follows. First, both the high and low psychological comfort groups preferred soft material the most. The high psychological comfort group particularly preferred soft textures and highly evaluated textured material in general. Second, both groups mostly preferred plain patterns while the high psychological comfort group preferred the dot pattern more. Third, in terms of colors, the high psychological comfort group preferred navy and purple, while the low psychological comfort group preferred brown. As to achromatic colors, both groups preferred black the most with the high psychological comfort group preferred gray and white more than the other group. Fourth, the high psychological comfort group preferred colors and patterns of clothing that made one look the most slimming, while the low psychological comfort group strongly preferred colors and patterns of clothes. Therefore, our results suggest that new senior women have a strong interest in outdoor clothing, not only in terms of textile functions, but also having interest in textile designs. In particular, the new silver women value psychological comfort in colors more than patterns of textile design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.112-127
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• 2010

Primitivism is a concept that expresses and organizes natural feelings of human beings which is hard to be identified by a rigid definition. It means "staying in the beginning or the initial state, not evolving or developing, and not affected by human beings from the intact natural state". Based on this meaning, the artistic style features inherent natural beauties, as well as plain and inornate design. These features have been reflected in a variety of art pieces. The aesthetic features shown in the primitivism art pieces can be categorized into four different aspects: naturalness, folksiness, sentimentality, and humorousness. These features, influencing modern fashion, have been reinvented by a number of fashion designers. They also adopted ideas from the fancy clothes and ornaments created in carefree life style of the regions retaining their primitive cultures, such as Africa, Oceania, and Pacific coasts, and applied those ideas to various silhouette, colors, patterns, and textiles. Particularly as for textile expressions, they tried printing techniques using the patterns motivated from primitive folk symbols or the nature, applied objet of primitive materials and elaborated ornaments that represent folk and primitive feelings, and employed the primitive techniques such as knotting, crude cutting, or natural draping, to reinvent them as textile expressions in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.65-86
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• 1990

Living conditions of the rural elderly were assessed in terms of clothing behavior, health and nutritional status, housing and envioronmental condition, and psychological adjustment. The subjects were eighty individuals over sixty residing in the rural community of Iksan-kun, Chollabukdo. The interview method using questionnaires, direct measurement, and observation was used for this study. Data were compared with those obtained from a previous study of the elderly residing in an urban area. Clothing behavior showed that the elderly residing in the rural community were more concerned about plain and conservative design of clothes than their urban counterparts. Special protective clothes for cropdusting with agricultural chemicals had not been prepared. The following urgent needs were pointed out: development and supply of agricultural chemical protective clothing and development and education of appropriate washing and clothing care methods. The health status of the elderly was generally good, but poor eating habits were found more frequently in the rural elderly than among the urban dwellers. Several dietary nutrient intakes were insufficient. Contrasting the urban elderly with the rural group, it was found that the urban group lacked sufficient vitamin A and vitamin C and the urban women had insufficient calorie whereas the rural group was deficient in protein, vitamin A, calorie, and fat. A significant relationship was found between dietary nutrient intake and health index, food habit points, self recognized health status, meal satisfaction, and economic status. Urgent needs of the development of a nutrition education program for the elderly were pointed out. Most of elderly residing in the surveyed rural communities were living alone or with their spouse only, therefore only one room was used among the three or four available rooms. Most of the rural elderly were living either in a traditional Korean house built with differing floor levels or in a modified Korean style house. Minimal modernization had been made for kitchen facilities such as sink and gas range or for heating facilities with the briquette boiler. However, sanitary space such as lavatory and bathroom had not been remodeled. A housing welfare program for rural communities should be implemented at the national level. The comparison of psychological characteristics of the rural elderly with their city counterparts revealed that the rural elderly have a more stable psychological status and optimistic attitude than those living in a city. However, it was found that most of the elderly did not have any future plan. Community programs for the elderly including hobbies or leisure activities or education programs to generate close interpersonal relationships with their children should be developed and provided.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.204-220
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• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.59-71
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• 2006

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.13-24
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• 2001

With development of our society, the Hanbok, which is the traditional clothing of our country, is mainly used only on the festive days or marriage ceremony or so as a ceremonial dress and seems lack in wearing as plain clothes. But in the other hand. with general public became no more unfamiliar with the representation of Korean realities and accepted them as a part of life in 90', the modernized Hanbok that features seasoning the practicality into the aesthetic natures of the traditional Hanbok has been rooting in our country. The existing researches on the modernized Hanbok, however. are focused only in the design of the modernized Hanbok, the present conditions of the modernized Hanbok business and the actual condition of the modernized Hanbok, and the aspect in systematic research on the customers'purchasing behavior is weak in comparison with other areas. The goal of this research, by focusing in the value which is the most basic concept of psychological components indicating the customers' behavior, was : first. to make clear the value of the modernized Hanbok and divide the customers into various groups : second, to make clear the characteristics on the population statistics by the groups divided on the clothing value : third, to make clear the individual differences among the customers of the modernized Hanbok : and forth, to make clear the basis on which to estimate the modernized Hanbok by the customers'groups. This research adopted the surrey inquiry. The first investigation is carried out on the modernized Hanbok purchasers and salesmen in Insa-dong where the modernized Hanbok business is massed. As correction and complement for the first investigation. the final investigation is carried out in Oct. 2000 with the 480 persons from twenties to sixties consisting of the modernized Hanbok purchasers and experienced persons in wearing it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.80-97
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• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.