• Title/Summary/Keyword: Pihwa

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A Study on Man's Boots of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 남자용 화에 관한 연구)

  • Kwak Kyung-Hee;Hong Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.44-55
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of man's boots in the Joseon Dynasty and compared them with those of the Ming and Qing Dynasty to find the influential relationships between them. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty are divided into several kinds such as Heukgwejapihwa, Hheuksapihwa(黑斜皮靴), Heukpihwa(黑皮靴), Mokhwa(木靴), Hyeopgeumhwa(挾金靴), Suhwaja (水靴子), Jeonpihwa, Gijahwa(起子靴), and Baekhwa(白靴). In addition, Jeong(精: footwear) was put inside boots. They tend to be named according to their materials or ornaments on them. First, Jeong put inside the boots is regarded as footwear for the comfort of the feet or protection against cold. Mokhwa appears in literature around the 19th century. As shown by remains and paintings of those days, it is considered to have become the common name of boots as it underwent many changes. On the other hand, a book in the era of King Gojong includes pictures of Suhwaja. Compared to Hukpihwa in the same book. The topside seems to have been raised in order to make the wearer who put on a military uniform feel comfortable when walking, since the bottom piece is hard. Baekhwa is worn not only with funeral garments but also with Sibok(時服), one of official uniforms. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty had been made following the design of the Ming Dynasty since official uniforms were conferred upon King Gongmin in the late Koryo Dynasty. But turning the late Joseon Dynasty its detailed design changed little by little. The topside of the boots became more round, the entrance part became wider, height of the shoes became taller, and the bottom piece became parallel to the ground.