The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.3
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pp.151-166
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2007
The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.
This study developed smart fashion prototypes that provide utilitarian functionality by combining Fashion and Electronics regarding the IT focused convergence tendency in modern industries. A convergence R&D workshop was performed by Fashion design majors and Engineering majors for the study. As a result, 5 functional smart fashion prototypes were developed and the outline of each prototype are as follows. The $1^{st}$ prototype, 'Hidden Camera Detecting Coat' focused on gender-related crimes. The coat uses infrared lighting and LED technologies to provide a function to detect hidden cameras in suspicious public spaces such as toilets. The $2^{nd}$ prototype, 'Heating-massage Suit' targeted patients with musculoskeletal system difficulties. The suit uses heating and vibration technologies to provide a heating massage treatment for patients with ongoing difficulties in their daily lives. The $3^{rd}$ prototype is an air-bag jacket to prevent sexual molestation on public transportation. The jacket extends its volume through pressure sensing, air compressing, motors and 3D-printing technology to secure the wearer's personal preventive space between the user's body and others. The $4^{th}$ prototype is a town wear for people suffering from synesthesia. People with synesthesia inadvertently see colors when exposed to certain sounds. This town wear uses sound sensing, air compressing, motors and 3D-printing technology to provide sound prevention and a comfortable sound playing function. The $5^{th}$ prototype is a set of a vest and a gloves for visually impaired people. The vest and gloves uses DMS, voice playing, vibration technology to provide distance measuring and warning functions.
It is a reality that office workers in modern society cannot overlook their appearance management for promotion in the workplace that does not fall behind in competition with others and smooth human relationships. According to this social trend, it is time to conduct an in-depth cosmetology study on the appearance management and perception of office workers, including hair styles. Therefore, this study analyzed the hair style type and preference closely by cross-analyzing the differences between groups by classifying the occupational persons of female airline crew, female soldiers, female sportsmen, female lawyers, and female nurses into age, marriage, academic background, and occupation. As result of study, it was found that different women in each occupational group had different results, such as their current hair style type and hair texture, the use of current hair styling products, and their personal preference for women's hairstyles and hair colors. This study will be used as basic data for developing new mode items that meet customer needs in the beauty marketing market and researching customer demand.
The article is devoted to the actual problem of studying the possibilities of implementing personalization of the user interface in accordance with the personality psychotypes. The psychological aspect of user interface design tools is studied and the correspondence of their application to the manifestations of personality psychotypes is established. The results of the distribu-tion of attention of users of these categories on the course page of the educational platform are presented and the distribution of attention in accordance with the focus on educational material is analyzed. Individual features and personal preferences regarding the used design tools are described, namely the use of accent colors in interface design, the application of the prin-ciples of typographic hierarchy, and so on. In accordance with this, the prospects for implementing personalization of the user interface of the educational platform are described. The results of the study allow us to state the relevance of developing and applying personalization of the user interface of an educational platform to improve learning outcomes in accordance with the psychological impact of individual design tools, and taking into account certain features of user categories. The research is devoted to the study of user attention concentration using heatmaps, in particular based on eyetreking technology, we will investigate the distribution of user attention on the course page of an educational platform Ta redistribution of atten-tion in accordance with certain categories of personality psychotypes. The results of the study can be used to rearrange the LMS Moodle interface according to the user's psychotype to achieve the best concentration on the training material. The obtained data are the basis for developing effective user interfaces for personalizing educational platforms to improve the quality of the education.
In the early twentieth century, history of animation began by modern artists, they produced various experimental images with the newly invented film and cameras. Artists in the field of movie, photography, paintings and others manipulated images in motion. But as some animated movies won industrial success and popularity, they became the trend but experimental style of early animation preserved by so-called non-mainstreamers or experimental animators, counteracting commercialism. Disney animation also followed the trend by applying realistic Hollywood film style, the worse critics placed a low value on the animation and it tarnished the image, although it was profitable investment from a business standpoint. To make images realistic, they opened a drawing class that animators developed skills to imitate motions and forms from subjects in real life. Also some techniques and gizmos were used to mimic and simulate three dimensional objects and spaces, multiplane camera and compositing 3D CG images with 2D drawings. Moreover, they brought animation stories from fairly tales or folk tales, and Walt's personal interest in live-action movies, they applied Hollywood-film-like narratives and realistic visual, and harsh criticism ensued. On the surface early disney animations' potential seems to be weakened, but in reality it still exists by simplifying and exaggerating forms and color as modern arts. Disney animation employs concepts of the modernism paintings such as simplified shapes and colors to a character design, when their characters are placed together in a scene, that visual elements cause mental reaction. This modification gives a new internal experience to audiences. As conceptual colors in abstract paintings make images appeared to be flat, coloring characters with no shading make them look flat and comparing to them, background images are also appeared to be flat. On top of that, multi-perspective at background images recalls modernist paintings. This essay goes in details with the animation pioneers' works and how Disney animation developed its techniques to emulate real life and analyses color schemes, forms, and spaces in Disney animation compared with modern artists' works, in that the visual language of Disney animation reminds of impression from abstract paintings in the beginning of the twentieth centuries.
Direct, continuous, and accurate measurements of solar ultraviolet irradiance (290-400 nm: UVR) have been carried out since 1990, by using both band-spectral ultraviolet-B (290-320 nm: UV-B) and ultraviolet-A (320-400 nm: UV-A) radiometers at Tokai University in Hiratsuka, Japan (35$^{\circ}$N, 139$^{\circ}$E). From our observations, the following findings are provided: 1) an increasing trend in solar UV -B from Oct. 1990 to Sept. 2000; 2) a regional comparison of solar UVR in Japan; 3) the distinct characteristics of UV-B and UV-A irradiance, such as diffuse property, daily and seasonal variation; and 4) human body protection against solar UVR. An increasing 10-year trend in global solar UV - B in Hiratsuka corresponded to a decrease in the total ozone amount measured at Tsukuba (36$^{\circ}$N, 140$^{\circ}$E), giving supportive evidence for a direct link between these two parameters. Furthermore, a strong correlation was found between solar UV-B and total ozone amount from results of UVR measurements at four Tokai University monitoring stations dispersed throughout Japan. Additional results revealed different diffuse properties in global solar UV and in global solar total (300-3000 nm: Total) irradiances. For example, in the global UVR, the diffuse component was dominant: about 80 % independent of weather, with more than 60 % of global UV-B, and more than 50% of global UV-A with even a cloudless clear sky. On the other hand, the portion of the diffuse in the global total irradiance was very low, less than 10 % on a cloudless clear day. Daily and seasonal variations of UV -B and UV -A irradiances were found to be quite different, because of the marked dependence of UV -B irradiance on the atmospheric ozone amount. Moreover, UV -B irradiance showed large daily and seasonal variations: the ratio between maximum and minimum irradiances was more than 5. In contrast, the variation in UV-A was small: the ratio between maximum and minimum was less than 2. Three important facts are proposed concerning solar UVR protection of the human body: 1) the personal minimal erythema dose (MED); 2) gender based difference in MED values; and 3) proper colors for UVR protective clothing.
The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.
The purpose of this study is to clarify how modern formative art reflects surrealism and propose a Art Make-up expressed based on the trend. The study also aims at demonstrating the part that the Make-up based on surrealism is also an artistic being keeping pace with the trend of art. For the purpose, the study reviewed related theoretical backgrounds and works as manufactured. Based on these theoretical backgrounds, the author anufactured works of his own, realizing the combination between theoretical and practical aspects. Those works were motivated from existing surrealistic paintings or otherwise made surrealistically through creation by the author for himself. The works included , (Work 2-MAGRITTE's Expression>, , , and . Results of the study, which were obtained through manufacturing the works, can be described as follows. First, senses of modern formation and line were emerged by applying the materials and images frequently shown in surrealistic paintings to human bodies. Second, characteristics of the Art Make-up for artistic image were revealed, not limited to colors, expressions, subjects, techniques and materials. Third, an unlimited, interesting expression of the Make-up using a variety of materials became possible by applying extremely subjective, surrealistic paintings and images in various ways. This paper proposed that the Make-up should be a artistic image itself, not as a secondary means for an obvious expression of personal beauty which has been maintained since the ancient times. The researcher tried to put the Art Make-up into our daily life by making creative works which viewed and psychologically enjoyed by people and by proposing the works as sort of image theme to the spectators.
The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.
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