• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.153-178
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• 2022

This study analyzes the traces of East-West cultural exchange focusing on the palmette pattern expressed on Sassanid Persian and Silla Korean carpets. The results of the study are as follows. The palmette, which originated in ancient Egypt, is an imaginary flower made up of the transformation of a lotus, which combined with the Mesopotamian quadrant (四分法) and expanded to a four-leaf palmette and further to an eight-leaf palmette by applying the octant (八分法). The palmette, which was brought to Assyria, Achaemenid Persia, Parthia, Greece, and Rome, can be seen lavishly decorated with plant motifs characteristic of the region. Sassanid Persia inherited the tradition of the palmette pattern, which applied the quadrant and octant seen in several previous dynasties. On the one hand, it has evolved more splendidly by combining the twenty or twenty-one-leaf palmette and the traditional pearl-rounded pattern decoration of Sassanid Persia. These Sassanid Persian palmette patterns can be found through the palmette patterns depicted on the ceilings of the Dunhuang Grottoes located on the Silk Road. The palmette pattern of the Dunhuang Grottoes was expressed in the form of a fusion of Persian Zoroastrianism, Indian Buddhism, and indigenous religions. In the Tang Dynasty, it shows the typical palmette pattern of four and eight leaves in the medallion composition, which were mainly seen in Persian palmettes. The palmette pattern handed down to Silla can be found on a Silla carpet, estimated to be from around the 8th century, in the collection of Shoso-in (正倉院), Japan. The Silla carpet shows a unique Silla style using motifs such as peonies and young monks, which were popular in Silla while following the overall design of the Persian medallion.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2017

This study selected commonly known species of fruit trees, and re-selected the species that endure the stress of extreme cold weather and physiologically restore themselves to the previous state until the following year. Then we could go ahead to propose the species that were appropriate as urban greening plants in weather condition of any part of the country. To do this, we conducted an experiments for six species of fruit trees based on the preference of the general public and recommendation of the experts; Morus alba (English name: mulberries), Diospyros kaki (English name: Persimmon), Prunus persia (English name: Peach), Elaeagnus umbellata var. coreana (English name: Korean Autumn Olive), Malus domestica 'Alps Otome' (English name: Alps Otome), and Prunus mume (English name: Blue Plum). The experiment verifies whether the trees survive without any stress from the cold weather under the national climate conditions (one in the suburbs of Seoul: Yongin city, one in the central Chungcheong region: Daejeon city, and in the southern Gyeongsang region: Jinju city in Korea). The experiment lasted for a year from August 2016 to August 2017. The levels of electrolytic efflux, chlorophyll content, plant height, fresh weight, and dry weight were measured four times (on August of 2016, January, February, and August of 2017) for each tree planted bare ground outdoors. Results showed that Diospyros kaki, Prunus persia, and Malus domestica 'Alps Otome' were proven durable and resistant to winters of all three areas (one in the suburbs of Seoul: Yongin city, one in the central Chungcheong region: Daejeon city, and in the southern Gyeongsang region: Jinju city in Korea). Especially, the increase of chlorophyll content and the reduction of electrolytic efflux were noticeable in Prunus persia than in the other two species, proving itself as the most cold-tolerant among the six species used in the experiment. In addition, interpreting from the physiological restoration data of one-year span before and after getting through winterer, Prunus persia was proven to be the most cold-tolerant species.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.119-135
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• 2016

The initial phase of the Mongol invasion resulted in the establishment of relative political stability in the vast expanses of Eurasia, which came under the control of a single political entity - the Mongol realm. This contributed to a fairly rapid restoration of the commercial links and trade routes between the East and the West. During this period, Chinese silk again became available in large quantities in the Western markets. At the same time, the beginning of silk production and manufacturing of silk fabrics in Italy and the fashion flash for these goods in Western countries affected trade between Europe and the Muslim world. The centers of silk production in the Ilkhanid Empire were some provinces of Azerbaijan and Persia, where from it was exported in large numbers along the trade routes of Anatolia and Syria to the Mediterranean ports and further to the west. There are numerous testimonies of European travelers, and Muslim authors related the international silk trade in 13th-15th centuries, ie in the era from the Mongol Ilkhanid Empire till the reign of the Turkman Aqqoyunlu dynasty. One of the most informative documentary sources on this issue are the legislative codes (kanuname) of sultan Uzun Hasan from the Aqqoyunlu dynasty regarding the eastern provinces of the Asia Minor. This article presents and analyzes the information from these documents concerning the whole range of goods related to silk and silk fabrics trade in the period under the consideration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.121-134
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to research of cultural symbol on Safavid lampas in Persia. The results are as follows. A significant feature of continuous pat-terns in lampas is the use of the human figure and a signature of designer's name in the Islamic world. Motifs can be identi-fied as Safavid lampas by the style of motifs such as birds leaves trees flowers on a gold or silver namely metal back-groud. the result shows that cultural symbol on Safavid lampas is connected with islamic culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

The following paper deals with Persian costume of Achaemanid period in Persia. The study about Persian costume is very important for the research of European and Asian costume. However, its theme is insufficiently examined until now, so we were not able to recognize the Persian costume culture properly. For the reason mentioned above, this study is necessary for understanding the Persian costume culture at that time correctly. The research was undertaken with the information on historical archaeological art sites, analyzing the dressing carved in the reliefs of king's Audiencescene in Apadanastairs in Persepolis. The results driven from the study are as the following: There are two styles in the reliefs of Audiencescene in Apadanastairs. One is long robe with pleats, which is called Persiandress. The other is tunic and trousers. Persiandress, long robe with pleats which was the typical dress in Persia at that time was originally the dress of Elamites, who occupied a very advanced civilization in this region. This robe was a borrowing by the Persians from their Elamite neighbours as formal dress. There is the Persian dress worn by king, prince, guardsmen, servants in the reliefs of Audiencescene in Apadanastairs. It is inferred from this that the dress was popularly worn in Persian court. Tunic and trousers, the typical clothing of ridding race, is worn by Median who is one of the relatives of Persian. The tunic has narrow sleeves and is reaching the knees. The trousers are ending at the ankle. Beyond the clothing, various headgear are also examined according to the social status and nationality. These are being precious materials for study on the persian costume among the relations with other surrounding countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.117-138
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• 2010

This study tries to analyse the type of sasanian crowns by looking into the icons and meanings of various motifs that changed the archetype and shape of the crowns, and the social and political factors that affected those motifs. Based on such analysis, the study is aimed at completing the periodic typology of the sasanian crown. For this study the literature research is combined with the empirical analysis of information. Korymbos which symbolizes globe represented the authority and power of the sasanian kings, but the motif with such meaning was replaced by star motif in the late-sasanian crowns. The basic motifs embellishing the sasanian crown represent Gods, which is interpreted as an attempt to symbolize the relations between Gods and kings. These motifs are found on each king's crown in a different and individual way, which seems because the kings at the time chose the motif that can symbolize their own political intention or spirit. At the early days of the sasanian dynasty, Korymbos motif was highly emphasized on the crowns, and was used throughout the end of the dynasty and then was replaced by star motif. From the mid-4th century, Crescent motif started to be used, which was always shown as the shape supporting Korymbos and star motif on it. Bird wing motif was intermittently used in the early and middle days of the dynasty, and was highly emphasized in the crowns of all the kings in the end of the dynasty. Star motif started to be used in the end of sasanian dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.81-99
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• 2012

This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.21-36
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• 2021

This paper discusses textile motifs depicted in the hunting panels inside the late Sasanian larger grotto at Taq-i Bustan. Scholars of Iranian art have referred to these rock reliefs in order to trace the origin of Sasanian textile decorations and their exportation in the whole medieval Eurasian continent. This however does not seem to be the case. In fact, the textile motifs reproduced at Taq-i Bustan could be a good term of comparison only for late Sasanian textile production. Moreover, nothing like this has appeared in previous Sasanian rock reliefs. For this reason, the present paper argues that some of those motifs could actually be importations from Central Asia where reproductions of textiles embellished with those motifs were very popular. Islamic written sources on Taq-i Bustan rock reliefs could be very useful to support some ideas expressed in this paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 1987

Dan-Ryong is the traditional clothing that was worn the entire of oriental nations, and it was spreaded from Sun-Bi tribe to China about A.D. 4C. The first, the name of Dan-Ryong was translated with 25-Sa and Ancient-History Book. Among the name of Dan-Ryong, the follows were different between the name and shape. Jang-Bok was the colored Dan-Ryong, So-Bok was the unfigured black Dan-Ryong and removed Hyung-Bae, Ea-Mun-Pho was the Dan-Ryong of embroidered figure poetry, and Ja-Sam was the real short and tight Dan-Ryong. The second, some problems were given by translated Dan-Ryong's name. The results of the problems were as follows; 1. Dan-Ryong was oriented from Won-Wi. 2. At Su-Dynasty, there was going to the persuit of Han-Dynasty Courtesy, but they liked useful custom. Therefore Dan-Ryong was worn in daily life among the population. 3. At Dang-Dynasty, Ho-Bok was devided with three meanings. The first was Go-Sub, the second was Dan-Ryong of Buk-Jo about A.D. 3$\~$5 C and the last meaning was the clothing of Uighur, Turkey, Persia and etc. about A.D. 7 C. 4. The name of neck-line shape was started at Song and the majority arised about A.D. 12 C. and Dan-Ryong was only arised at Myong-Dynasty. 5. Gok-Ryong, except Song-Sa and Sam-Je-He-Bo, was different from Dan-Ryong and it was shape of neck-line inside of Jik-Ryong.