• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2020

The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.83-100
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to figure out how stage costume of Peking Opera communicates what the character wants to inform to spectator. The stage costume means the clothing, shoes, headdress, accessory that the cast is worn for communicating personality of character. Stage costume not only reveals the character of new spirit who the director and the work is like to create, but also makes the style of play harmonizing with the atmosphere of the work. So, the stage costume in the play is a sort of symbol system that forms the depth of play. The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera don't have the same rank system with real history costume and don't have demarcation according to period and history. Only it is that transformed and created the real history costume with Chinese fine view and made how they wear Chinese fine view and made how they wear the costume according to position, age, personality of character in the play. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that director can communicate to spectators and can inform spectator of sex, age, personality, position of the character. The color of the stage costume of Peking Opera reflects the principles of Yin and Yang and the five elements of the Chinese cosmogony. The pattern of decoration also makes the personality and characteristic of the character. The dragon pattern symbols the authority and majesty, so only the character of high position can use it. The pattern of tiger and leopard symbols bravery, so the military officer can use it. Civil officer decorates with the pattern of Japanese apricot, orchid, chrysanthmum, bamboo that symbols integrity and honor. The stage costume of Peking Opera communicates the identity of character with the special form of costume. Kanjien is a costume of the young priestess, Houyi is the Sunwukong'costume. Chayi is a costume of boatman. Lingzi, Sweixiu, Kaoqi is the props for the foramtive effect of stage costume, also they play an important part in expressing the emotion situation. In the result of study, we could know that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume and props of Peking Opera play important parts in communicating informations that let spectator can understand the play. So, the stage costume of Peking Opera is an‘picturizing costume’that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume is a sort of symbol system. It makes spectator feels actually the viewing Peking Opera.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.599-613
• /
• 2004

The purpose for this paper is to find the common characteristics of Korean traditional clothing, which is largely affected by Chinese arts and culture. There are many different theories about Faking Opera＇s orgine but an established character is an ensemble song and dance. It virtually represent overall Chinese arts. There are four characters in the Peking Opera ; Sheng, Dan, Jing, and Chuck. Sheng is divided into Nosheng, Sosheng, Musheng and Hongsheng based on their dramatic skills. Also, Sheng requires various acting skills : song, dance, dialogue, act and fighting skill. Peking Opera＇s stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though it＇s style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty＇s clothing style. The rankings and personalties of the role are strictly applied to decide what to wear. Artistic exaggeration, symbol and transfiguration, use of colors are equally important in planning the stage costume.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.38-51
• /
• 2003

Peking Opera, one of a representative Chinese dramas, is a synthesis of drama and stage art. Peking Opera's stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though its style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty's clothing style. The special patterns in the clothing were very important because they classified social rankings. There are two kinds of roles in Peking Opera. Sheng stands for male roles and Dan stands for female roles though Dan had traditionally been acted by male actors with female attire until the ruling of the People's Republic of China. There are five different kinds Peking Opera's stage costume. First, Mang is a formal dress for kings and generals. It is a very delicate long Po with special patterns. It has several names depending on the color and shape of a dragon. Second, Pee is a casual attire for kings, government officials, and their families. It is also a long Po with front opening and symmetrical neckline. Third, Kao is an armor of warrior which is made not for protection in a real war but for ornament of a formal dress. Kao reflects the wearer's authority when the wearer stays still, but it is a comfortable clothing for big dancing moves once the wearer starts dancing. The wearer puts a banner into the shoulder to alarm tension of a war. Fourth, Cheup is an outfit that one wears the left part adjust to the top. There are different lengths of Cheup and it has a straight neckline. There are twenty-one different kinds of Cheup according to its shape and color. Last, Yi is name for the rest of Peking Opera's stage costume other than Mang, Pee, Kao, and Cheup.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.43-52
• /
• 2006

This study has been conducted to find out the characteristics of the form and the color of make-up in Oriental traditional plays by comparing the characteristics of Hahoe masque, which is one of Koran traditional plays with those of Chinese Peking Opera and Japanese Noh plays. The object of the study was confined to the make-up of women players. The distinguished characteristics of women make-up of oriental traditional plays are as followings. First, the make-up of woman players in Korean Hahoe masque adopts mask make-up and expresses the mental state of players very realistically. Second, the women players in Chinese Peking Opera wear face make-up and it is beautifully expressed but not exaggerated. Third, most of Japanese Noh players wear face make-up. However, only women players wear mask make-up so that they might express non-realistic mood. Overall, the women players in Korean Ha-hoe masque adopt mask make-up, Chinese Peking Opera face make-up, and Japanese Noh both mask and face make-up.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
• /
• no.5
• /
• pp.175-196
• /
• 2007

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.8
• /
• pp.132-150
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this research was to study the forms and styles of the costumes in the Peking Opera of China and to figure out the symbolism and aesthetic value of the costumes. The research was done using documentary Peking Opera, the costumes can be seen as a special kind of language which audience members can clearly understand it. Therefore, the spectators can understand instantly the sex, age, personality, and position of the character by seeing the style, color, and patterns of the costumes. As a result, one can call the costumes of Peking Opera, "picturizing costumes". The typical costumes are mangpao, pi, kao, xiezi, yi. Mangpao is the ceremonial robe often used by emperors and officials. It can be worn by lao sheng, xiao sheng and wu sheng. Bright yellow and apricot yellow colors are used exclusively by those who play the parts of emperors, foreign rulers, princes and the Monkey King. The next costume style to be discussed is Pi. Pi is the informal dress for the emperor, and young officials that are involved in civilian or military duties. The third costume style to be explored is Kao: the garment that a stage warrior wears when going into battle. This warrior can have three kinds of armor: the hard armor, the soft armor and the newly revised armor. Fourthly, the costume that is the most commonly worn, xiezi, is examined; it is the informal coat for every one regardless of one's age, sex, role, or level of nobility. Finally, the last of the typical costumes is Yi; this costume category includes numerous kinds of costumes, such as kaichang, baguaiyi, fayi, guanyi, yulinjia, kanjian, toupeng, jianyi, etc

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.121-136
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.223-277
• /
• 2011

Tan Yuanjie(譚元杰) of CHINA COSTUME ART OF PEKING OPERA("中國京劇服裝圖譜") is 'Foreword' attention from the bar 'Formalism'. A note is makeup system from ever performances here, 'what kind of adaptation must be a corresponding type of costume should be worn.' This stance to 'type of person's identity and faced the scene correlated' with the actual performance tradition plays out is going and, while here the rules to capture the opera's on the character of 'identity and the circumstances under clothing' is defined. This position discussed previously 'Formalism' in line with the will he perform, and looks to meet the elements of production. This basic stance is clean up, while 'Old Beijing Opera costumes costumes taxonomy largely' literary costume' and 'militant outfit' into two groups divided over throughout steamroll surgery, because surely need to have a more systematic classification. The classification system was established as 'Part 1. Mang, Part 2. Pi, Part 3. Xi, Part 4. Kao, Part 5. YI'. In addition to these classification systems, as well as the aforementioned 'object theory' Given the symbolic significance of the capacity to keep in mind is necessary. Costumes conduct, character, situation, atmosphere and so the transport of charged symbols here, a target symbol of the system is the projection of water. This costume is detrimental to the mall for the positionsay, but I kept in mind damwongeolyi internationalization of Chinese culture. when you see the view from the perspective of semiotic systems for the sign, that the theater is necessary to complement. In this paper, 'Yi(衣)' costume on the corresponding point of the target compared to the China Culture Department of Theatre and Folklore methodology ran off and sprinting was to lay the groundwork for research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.42-57
• /
• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.