• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1271-1284
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• 2011

This study improves the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms through the development of a shirt pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. A calculation formula is formed through a correlation analysis and regression analysis using Size Korea 2004 3D measurement data after analyzing 4 kinds of existing shirt pattern drafting methods and 3 types of shirt patterns currently used for the Air Force service uniform. The results of this study are as follows: The developed pattern drafting method has 4 parts that use calculated dimensions: neck base width, front interscye, back interscye and scye depth. Other body measuring parts that have a high correlation with calculation parts are inserted into regression analysis as independent variables to create dimension calculation formulas. The result of the final study patterns were better than existing winter service uniforms in nearly all items for the appearance evaluation and motion adaptability evaluations. The method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ after the completion of pattern drafting method development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.45-57
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• 2023

This research compared and analyzed a representative jacket pattern making method to suggest implications for the mass customization process of clothing. Four types of pattern making methods were selected according to the degree of reflection of human body measurements. Patterns were analyzed according to the size of middle-aged women. The results of this study are as follows. First, it identified and compared the difference in human body measurement and drafting processes required for pattern drafting. Next, as a result of analyzing the manuals and institutional figures presented in the pattern drafting manuals, problems such as B.P. location and compartment of the chest circumference, which are not appropriate, were found and the human body measurement method is different for each pattern making method. Through the above analysis, the advantages and disadvantages of the pattern making methods were identified and proposed improvements and implications for the application to the apaarel mass customization process were presented.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2012

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.599-614
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• 2019

The aim of this study to provide basic reference data for the development of video contents used in pattern drafting education and to explore the possibility of utilizing YouTube videos in such education. Subject videos were selected using the number of views. A total of 596 videos and 28 channels were analyzed for the period July to September 2019 and the results are as follows. With regard to content, there were 27 pattern drafting items, the majority being dress, pants, skirt, blouse and sleeve drafting, although high-level content such as cowl, bustier, corset patterns were also available. Therefore, there is a high likelihood that YouTube videos could be used as educational material, especially as supplementary references to provide specific examples and easy explanations for difficult concepts or method, for students majoring in this field. However, as most videos currently focus on a few items, expanding video content to features a wider variety of clothing items at different levels is necessary. With regard to video length, it mostly ranged from 10 to 15 minutes. It is not advisable to create lengthy lecture-style videos expounding on different principles or variations in pattern drafting when developing educational video material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.