• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.670-683
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• 2006

Such trend offers new fashion designs as a formative art with creative spontaneity. The purpose of this study is to seek to work out fashion design methods whereby fashions can be developed into an art form embracing handicraft premium textures, geometric formativeness and traditional beauty so as to satisfy the individualist expression desires of modern people who pursue practicality, originality, and beauty of simplicity. This art form also allows new images to be expressed. The corresponding methods studied include the space and technique of patchwork that can create artistry and aesthetic functionality into differentiated levels of images, and geometric ion from Mondrian' works. Fashion designs based on patchwork technique and the characteristics of Mondrian's works reveal that the patchwork technique using diverse materials is an artistic technique with high handicraft value. This technique provides new value to traditional aesthetic materials of clothing, and that Mondrian's unique designs are very effective in developing new fashion designs because they provide artistry and unique effects to modern fashion expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.194-205
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• 2012

Historically, garments have been spontaneously made with human instinct in order to warm and decorate the body using textiles that have been made and used by various peoples in different cultures. Contemporary garments have been used as a means of warming as well as express individual personality and a desire to pursue beauty. They have a unique formativeness and a symbolic nature according to cultural phenomena that reflect a cultural outcome that expresses contemporary thinking and ideology as well as their aesthetic consciousness. This study globally promotes Chinese opera mask culture and proposes the possibility of creative thinking through the introduction of Chinese opera mask elements into contemporary fashion, expressing them as patchworks. In order to endow artistic value (required in contemporary fashion) this study creates works by analyzing and applying a formative sense seen in patchwork techniques and the characteristics of Chinese opera masks; in addition, it sought the possibility of new expressions in garment designs. The results obtained from the research involve the following. First, the introduction of the traditional patchwork technique to contemporary garments may be a dynamic theme of garment expression and exceed stereotypical ideas that enable the creation of designs attuned to the globalization era. Second, it was possible to pursue independent formativeness which is in harmony with a modern sense through the restructuring of the harmony of colors and practical characteristics found in patchworks. Third, it was possible to demonstrate their artistry and unique effect in the expression of contemporary garments by the expression of the analyzed results of characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks with a patchwork technique in creating works. Results show that it is necessary to conduct research into a patchwork technique that applies diverse materials as a new method to develop contemporary garment design also as a creative design. In addition, if the analyzed results of the characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks can be expressed with a patchwork technique, they may be able to exhibit a genuine effect along with the artistry of expression in contemporary garments; thereby, relevant follow-up research should be further continued.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.30-37
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• 2003

The most distinctive feature of the costumes of the Arctic regions from Alaska to Siberia centering around the Bering Sea connecting Asia to North America, is that each tribe makes clothes adequate to the climate and their lifestyles with animal hides obtained from hunting in their habitation. Furs or fish skins, the main materials for clothing, are characteristically cut into many pieces, and thus piece-joining patchwork is used to make or decorate garments. Patchwork is the technique that can create new designs with 3-dimensional and various combinations by modifying the simple materials, and also has the advantage of fitting the body without a certain cut line. Therefore, the patchwork found in the Arctic costumes may be developed from folk costume designs with limited materials like fur into new ones for modern or future costumes.

• Proceedings of the IEEK Conference
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• 2002.07a
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• pp.160-163
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• 2002

This paper presents a statistical technique for audio watermarking. We describe the application of the promising public key watermarking method to the patchwork algorithm. Its detection process does not need the original content nor the secret key used in the embedding process. Special attention is given to statistical method working in the frequency domain. We will present a solution of robust watermarking of audio data. In this scheme, an extension of patchwork audio watermarking is presented which enables public detection of the watermark. Experimental results show good robustness of the approach against MP3 compression and other common signal processing manipulations.

• 한국정보통신설비학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2006.08a
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• pp.219-222
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• 2006

In this paper we present a cryptanalysis of the generalized patchwork algorithm under the assumption that the attacker possesses only a single copy of the watermarked audio. In the scheme, watermark is inserted by modifying randomly chosen DCT values in each block of the original audio. Towards the attack we first fit low degree polynomials (which minimize the mean square error) on the data available from each block of the watermarked content. Then we replace the corresponding DCT data of the at-tacked audio by the available data from the polynomials to construct an attacked audio. The technique nullifies the modification achieved during watermark embedding. Experimental results show that recovery of the watermark becomes difficult after the attack.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2016

In modern society, designers started feeling moral and social responsibility in the aspect of environment as a position of suggesting something new. Rather than creating another waste to make something innovative, the concept of Upcycling which is about adding design or utilization to the existing recyclable materials to raise their value to products or art works has started settling down. Among them, there have been various researches on the use of offcut waste to be dumped. Such use of waste can be found in Jogakbo (patchwork), one of our traditional boudoir crafts. This could be connected to the concept of the modern Upcycling in the aspect of giving new values to the wasted pieces of fabric through needlework. Therefore, this study suggested Stitch work as new Upcycling furniture by seeking for the common connections between Upcycling and traditional Jogakbo, and then reinterpreting them in the same viewpoint. It was an opportunity not only to rediscover 'the esthetics of waste' by changing the awareness of 'behavior of dumping', but also to reinterpret or reconsider the tradition. Based on this, it is expected to continuously have new attempts to use offcut waste for eco-friendly design in the future, and also to have opportunities to seek for new directions of Upcycling to rediscover new values through the revaluation of valuelessness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.