• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.10-21
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• 2018

Kushan dynasty was located in the middle of Silkroad, from the 1st century BC to the second century AD, where it negotiated with various races. Therefore, the culture of the Kushan has multi cultural elements. The purpose of this study is to understand the life of the ancient Silkroad by accessing this characteristic culture of the Kushan through costume analysis. And the results of this study will be used as a basic data for studying the relationship between Korean ancient costumes and Silkroad costume type. As a research method, literature survey and artifacts analysis were performed in parallel. The results of this study are as follows: The basic type of the Kushan costume was a typical nomadic ethnic type with a long tunic and trousers. Tunic was fastened with a belt and straps at the waist, and the lower part of the belt was wider like a skirt. The tunic was divided into two types: open front and closed front. Because Kushan was originally a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the nomadic elements of Central Asia remained unchanged in the early costumes of the Kushan, but over time the details of the costumes changed according to the surrounding political situation. When Kushan negotiated with Parthia, the parthian coat was worn by the influence of them. After occupying Greco Bactria, accepting the Greek culture of Bactria, Kushan's costume was supplemented by the external costume element of drapery, which changed the style of the nomadic costume into a elegant style.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.153-178
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• 2022

This study analyzes the traces of East-West cultural exchange focusing on the palmette pattern expressed on Sassanid Persian and Silla Korean carpets. The results of the study are as follows. The palmette, which originated in ancient Egypt, is an imaginary flower made up of the transformation of a lotus, which combined with the Mesopotamian quadrant (四分法) and expanded to a four-leaf palmette and further to an eight-leaf palmette by applying the octant (八分法). The palmette, which was brought to Assyria, Achaemenid Persia, Parthia, Greece, and Rome, can be seen lavishly decorated with plant motifs characteristic of the region. Sassanid Persia inherited the tradition of the palmette pattern, which applied the quadrant and octant seen in several previous dynasties. On the one hand, it has evolved more splendidly by combining the twenty or twenty-one-leaf palmette and the traditional pearl-rounded pattern decoration of Sassanid Persia. These Sassanid Persian palmette patterns can be found through the palmette patterns depicted on the ceilings of the Dunhuang Grottoes located on the Silk Road. The palmette pattern of the Dunhuang Grottoes was expressed in the form of a fusion of Persian Zoroastrianism, Indian Buddhism, and indigenous religions. In the Tang Dynasty, it shows the typical palmette pattern of four and eight leaves in the medallion composition, which were mainly seen in Persian palmettes. The palmette pattern handed down to Silla can be found on a Silla carpet, estimated to be from around the 8th century, in the collection of Shoso-in (正倉院), Japan. The Silla carpet shows a unique Silla style using motifs such as peonies and young monks, which were popular in Silla while following the overall design of the Persian medallion.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.54-73
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• 2012

최근 북방유목민족인 사르마티아에 관한 고고학적 자료들이 증가하면서 사르마티아인들의 활동 양상과 그 실체들이 조금씩 규명되고 있다. 이 글에서는 사르마티아인들의 동서 교역의 활동 양상을 사르마티아식 검집의 확산 지역 중심으로 살펴보았다. 사르마티아인들의 검은 스키타이나 페르시아인들이 사용한 아키나케스(Akinakes)의 계보를 잇는 것이지만 손잡이나 패용 방식에서 손쉽게 칼을 뺄 수 있도록 변화되었다. 즉 양 측면에 달린 4개 돌기에 끈으로 연결한 검집을 허벅지에 부착시키는 패용 구조로 변한 것이다. 사르마티아식 검은 기원전 5세기 파지리크시기 알타이 지역에서 처음 등장한 이래 사르마티아인들의 활동 중심지인 남시베리아, 박트리아, 파르티아, 로마로 확산되었다. 이 글에서는 동서 교섭의 요충지인 박트리아지역에 속하는 아프가니스탄 틸랴 테페 4호묘에서 출토된 검집에 관심을 두었다. 사르마티아식 검을 패용한 채 매장되었던 틸랴 테페 4호묘의 묘주는 당시 쿠샨왕조의 지배하에 있었던 박트리아에서 상당한 위치의 인물로 파악된다. 묘주가 2자루의 사르마티아식 검을 패용하고 있었던 것은 박트리아에 사르마티아의 영향이 상당이 수용된 사실을 의미한다. 사르마티아인들이 동서교섭에서 중요한 역할을 담당할 수 있었던 배경에는 중국산 물자를 실크로드에 공급하였던 이들의 역할과도 관련이 있다. 이에 사르마티아인들이 활동한 북방 초원 루트에 중국 한대 동경, 메론형 구슬, 수정구슬 등의 장식구슬, 금환연접구슬 등 중국 특히 비단이 생산되었던 남중국의 공예품들이 출토되는 경위에 관심을 가졌다. 모자이크 구슬은 당시 남중국 그리고 사르마티아와의 관계에 의한 것으로 살펴보았다. 거리적으로 먼 사르마티아와 남중국이 교섭할 수 있었던 중간 매체로는 흉노가 주목된다. 이와 관련하여 흉노의 유적에서 남중국에 가장 많은 분포를 보이는 금환연접구슬이 발견되는 점을 참고하였다. 남인도와 동남아시아에서 유행한 금환연접구슬이나 모자이크구슬이 아프카니스탄의 틸랴 테페 유적에는 없는 반면 같은 초원길로 연결되는 사르마티아 유적이나 흉노의 몽골 유적에서 등장하는 점이 흥미로운 것이다. 이는 남중국과 사르마티아, 흉노와의 연결 루트를 상정하게 한다. 한편 사르마티아인들의 중심연대인 기원전 2세기에서 기원후 2세기 사이 초원루트와 남중국을 잇는 교통로로는 운남에서 미안마를 지나 파키스탄, 아프가니스탄을 지나 인도 동부로 들어가는 서남실크로드로 판단된다. 1세기 동서교섭의 루트에는 북방 초원 루트, 남해 루트, 오아시스 루트 등 다양한 루트가 존재한다. 이들 루트들은 운반, 집산되는 물자의 특성이나 당시 정치적 관계에 의해 다양하게 사용되고 형성되었다. 이 글에서는 인도와 중앙아시아, 그리고 남중국을 잇는 최단거리의 길인 서남루트가 북방 유목민들인 사르마티아인들에 의해 사용되고 개척된 상황을 살펴본 것이다.