• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.16-27
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to identify the structure and characteristics for the reproduction of the armor in the Unified Silla period, and then reproduce and utilize it as a cultural content. In the armor reproduction project excavated from Jaemaejeong, Gyeongju. Jaemaejeong armor is consisting of Singap (身甲, body armor), Sanggap (裳甲, hip armor), and Sangbakgap (上膊甲, upper arm armor) at the time of excavation. Unlike the armor of the Three Kingdoms period, Singap and Sanggap are separated. Singap is Yangdangsik (裲襠式, side opening method) and Gyunggap (頸甲, gorget) was not unearthed, Sangbakgap was divided into a part that protects the left and right upper arms and a part that protects the chest, so that the unexcavated head and neck cover of the helmet can be protected to the shoulder. In addition, in the case of Chalgap (札甲, lamellar armor), the Oejungsik (外重式, folded from outside to inside) is mainly used, but it is peculiar that Naejungsik (內重式, folded from inside to outside) is used in Sangbakgap of Jaemaejeong armor. It is presumed that this was used as a method to ensure that the armor were closely attached to the human body. In order to design with the parade armor of Gochwidae in Gyeongju based on the reproduced Jaemaejeong armor, the designer's imagination and historical work of the times were involved due to the characteristics of performance costumes. Reproduced armor as a cultural content should be considered indispensable to simplify and lighten clothing suitable for performances based on the excavated historical armor.