• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.291-302
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• 2010

This study details the actual wearing conditions and favored design of ready-made pants for obese women, particularly for those in their twenties and thirties. The actual problems that customers feel and the preferred design of pants were suggested based on the survey and from the standpoint of consumers. The findings of the survey are as follows. The actual wearing conditions in the survey, 80.5% like wearing pants. The main reason to prefer pants is that pants are more convenient for social or professional work activities. The main reason to avoid wearing pants is that the pants (in general) do not mask an obese body shape. The most favored was Denim/Elastic and the second most favored was Cotton/Elastic from the survey. On average, elastic materials are preferred over non-elastic materials. The reason was the comfort in wearing and convenience in social or professional activities that could mask obesity. In terms of the style, the most favored was blue jeans and the second favored was semi-formal. A straight-silhouette is the most favored as it was able to help mask obesity. The most favored position for the waistline is 4 cm lower than the natural waistline. The most favored pant length is where the pants slightly touch the floor when they stand with shoes on. For obese women the pants development that covers the weak points of the body shape giving, which is comfortable and active are desired.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.101-112
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• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2002

This study aims to present basic data on current uniforms for the practical improvement and quality betterment of their design by investigating and analysing the uniform designs worn by employees working in department stores, shopping malls and financial firms. For the research, after taking pictures of employees wearing uniforms from various occupations in Daejeon area from April 15 to May 24, 2001, the uniform styles, and the shape, color and pattern of each item were analysed by a group of four costume experts. The result is as follows: First, the uniform forms are classified by the style, and silhouette. It was found that the overall silhouette mostly consisted of hourglass silhouette, and two-piece suits. Second, for the color of each item, black was the most common color for the jacket, skirt, pants and white for the one-piece dress. Third, plain, abstract, and striped patterns, and polka dots were used for the uniforms. Among them the plain pattern accounts for the highest rate.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

A study using compare and analyze about differences among three basic pants patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of comparison about total pants pattern shape, the ESMOD have two tucks of front and one dart of back and the Secoli and On&on have each dart of front and back. The results of estimation about total appearance, the On&on is the best of all pattern about total silhouette of front and back side and the ESMOD is the worst of all. In a case of the ESMOD, the thigh part has so many spaces between body and pants so it is rated low. When we examine about space between body and pants, amount of air gap of ESMOD is 0.6 at waist circumference and next is On&on(0.07). In case of hip circumference, the Secoli is 0.08 and the ESMOD is 0.14. The ESMOD's amount of air gap is 0.32 at thigh circumference and 0.62 at knee circumference. The Secoli's amount air gap is 0.26 at thigh circumference and 0.59 at knee circumference.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2013

A study using 3D virtual garment simulation is carried out for the evaluation and application on the pants fit for obese women in their age of 20s and 30s. The results are as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0cm, hip circumstance was 102.4cm, BMI was $27.1kg/m^2$, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of 20~30s obese women preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics. When comparing the appearances between real garment and virtual garment, the average of the real garment with 100% cotton was 3.70 and the virtual garment was 4.05. The average of real garment with cotton spandex mixed fabrics was 3.75 and the virtual garment was 4.06. Therefore, the average of virtual garment was highly evaluated. When comparing the results of evaluating the appearance, there was no significant difference caused by materials between real garment and virtual garment. The expression for the ease of virtual garment and real garment was also similar for good evaluation. Thus, 3D virtual garment simulation did positively prove its reliability and effect.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.5-13
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• 2004

This study was performed to investigate the characteristics of denim pants preferred by Korean women in their 20's through the analysis of the sensory test(appearance) and garment space length. Four kinds of ready-made denim pants of national and licensed brand on sale in Korea were used as the experimental garment. The results were as follows: 1. The significant difference among brands were found in the appropriateness of ease in the part of waist belt(front), knee (front), ankle(back) and the total silhouette. 2. In the analysis of garment space length. the significant difference among brands was shown in waist belt part $(FL60^{\circ})$, hip $(FL0^{\circ},\;FL30^{\circ})$, crotch(SRR) and knee(BR60^{\circ}). However, total average was not significant difference. 3. According to analysis of pattern size, the brand N was out of balance in crotch depth and girth. by which it can be said that N got the lowest score in sensory test (appearance). On the other hand, Brand GU was large in circumference with short crotch length. 4. Therefore, the most preferred denim pants pattern of Korean women in their 20's was fit in waist belt. hip. crotch circumference and a little bit tight in crotch depth and length. As the design was limited as straight style. more design and brands must be included for future study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.37-50
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to present basic data that can express beautiful silhouette by studying visual effect that depend on waist position of basic pants and the change of round belt width and analyzing the study of visual effect of the pattern design as well as the effect of design component. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the location of the waistline and 3 variations of the width of the belt. The data has been obtained from 35 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test and the MCA method. The visual effects by the location of waistline and the width of belt are composed of 3 factors : horizontal direction factor, vertical direction factor and flexuosity factor. In these factors, horizontal factor is estimated by most important factor. Visual effect is positive when belt width widens as the location of waist line goes down to position of low belt. And in case the location of waist line is in the position of natural waist belt and low rise belt, belt of 3.2cm width is effective visually. The interaction effects between the location of the waistline and the width of the belt have significant differences in all factors. Factor that appears in visual effect of basic pants can be evaluated differently according to pattern of pants and characteristic of body shape. So we may receive better visual assessment if we consider the location of waist belt and width of belt in side of visual effect and image, when we produce pants giving variety to crotch depth.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.