• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.103-109
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• 2016

Efficacy of cosmetics has been mainly evaluated by qualitative and quantitative methods based on visual sense, tactile sense and skin structure until now. In this study, we suggested a novel evaluation method for skin status based on sound; measuring and analyzing the rubbing noise generated by applying cosmetics. First, the rubbing noise was measured at a close range by a high-sensitivity microphone in anechoic environment, and the noises were analyzed by 1/3 octave band analysis in frequency-domain. Three conditions, 1) before washing, 2) after washing and 3) after application of cosmetics, were compared. As a result, sound pressure level (SPL) of rubbing noise after washing was larger than that of before washing, and the SPL of rubbing noise after cosmetic application was the smallest. Furthermore, the energy of rubbing noise after application was higher than that of the before and after washing conditions in a low frequency band (lower than 2 kHz region). Conversely, the energy of rubbing noise after application was much lower than the others in a high-frequency band (upper than 2 kHz region). This change of energy distribution was described as a balloon-skin model. High SPL in the low frequency region after the cosmetic applications was due to the increase of "flexibility index", while SPL in the high frequency region significantly decreased because of the attenuation which is related to "softness index". Therefore, we developed two indices based on the spectrum-energy difference for evaluating skin conditions. This proposed method and indices were verified via skin flexibility and roughness measurement using cutometer and primos respectively. These results suggest that acoustic measurement of skin friction noise may be a new skin status evaluation method.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2019

Carbonylated proteins (CPs) are synthesized by the chemical reaction of basic amino acid residues in proteins with aldehyde compounds yielded by lipid peroxidation. CPs are excited by a range of light from UVA to blue light, and resulted in the generation of superoxide anion radicals ($^{\cdot}O_2{^-}$) by photosensitizing reaction. Then, they CPs induce new protein carbonylation in stratum corneum through ROS generation. Furthermore, the superoxide anion radicals produce CPs in the stratum corneum (SC) through lipid peroxidation and finally affects skin conditions including color and moisture functions. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the production of stratum corneum carbonylated protein (SCCP) and the skin elasticity. 46 healthy female Koream at the ages of 30 ~ 50 years old were participated in this study for 8 weeks. The skin test was experiment conducted into two groups; placebo group (N = 23) used cream that did not contain active ingredients, and the other group (N = 23) used cream containing the elasticity improving ingredients. Test areas were the crow 's feet and the cheek. Various non-invasive methods were carried out to measure biophysical parameters on human skin indicating that dermis density and skin wrinkle were measured by using DUB scanner and Primos premium, respectively. Skin elasticity were measured using dermal torque meter (DTM310) and balistometer (BLS780). SCCP was assessed in a simple and non-invasive method using skin surface biopsy on the cheek of the subject. The amount of SCCP was determined using image analysis. All measurements were taken at 0, 4 and 8 8week. Results revealed that the amount of CP in SC was reduced when the skin wrinkle and skin elasticity related parameters were improved. This indicates that the correlation between the elasticity improvement and the amount of CP can be used as a anti-aging indicator and applicable to the skin clinical test for the measurement of skin aging in the future.