• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.186-195
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the time-dependent, one-dimensional numerical model on the interaction between irregular waves and two-layer permeable coastal structures, by extending and modifying the numerical model PBREAK(Wurjanto and Kobayashi, 1992) which is applicable only to one-layer permeable coastal structures. The two-layer permeable coastal structure consists of two permeable underlayers with different permeable media resting on an impermeable slope and an armor layer covering the permeable underlayer. The numerical model of this study simulates the wave over rough permeable underlayer of arbitrary geometry as well as the waves inside two-permeable underlayers of arbitrary thickness for specified normally-incident irregular waves. The utility of the numerical model is founded from comparing with PBREAK and the four hydraulic model tests under irregular waves. The sensitivities of computed results according to typical parameters(porosity, stone diameter, horizontal width of the permeable underlayer) and major factors(friction factor of primary armor layer etc.) discussed.