• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제50권6호
• /
• pp.55-64
• /
• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제25권2호
• /
• pp.159-174
• /
• 2017

The study uses lists of wedding gifts used from old Korean documents written in Hangeul in the western Gyungnam province during the 20th century. The study analyzed four lists of wedding gifts from the Muncheongak archive and two lists from the archive of ancient document. This analysis found that clothing accounts for the majority of the items in the lists, and items such as furniture, jewelry, household goods, and medical materials were also recorded. That the furnishings were commonly prepared by the groom's side, and the fact that the number of jeogori was higher than the number of skirt, speaks to the unique wedding custom of Gyeongsang province. While the groom's list of wedding gifts included a record of the bride's ornaments, jewelry, and furnishings in the bride's list, the groom's nickel top-knot pin was only included as an ornament. In the list of wedding gifts between brothers, the gifts for the eldest son differed from those for the third son in terms of number and price. The list of wedding gifts between father and son illustrates how economic development and changing times wedding custom. The lists of wedding gifts in the old Korean documents shed light on the oral research into 20th century wedding custom, which will be used as basic data in researching and reproducting the wedding culture and life conditions of the time.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제29권3호
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2020

In Korean traditional architecture, the Gong-po style is divided into the Jusimpo, Dapo and Ikgong. Jusimpo and Chulmok-Ikong, where only Gong-po is placed on the column, differ in form of Gong-po depending on the viewpoint. Since 'Chulmok-Ikgong' has been generally regarded as 'One Chulmok-Two Ikgong', the precedent researches have been conducted mainly on 'One Chulmok-Two Ikgong' in the Gong-po style classification. However, when it comes to 'One Chulmok', the style of Ikgong can be organized from the one to three steps and this study is particularly for examining the occurrence and transformation of 'One Chulmok-One Ikgong'. One of the case study sites, Bonghwa Cheongamjeong was originally built in the 16th century, and is believed to have been repaired from 'Non Chulmok-One Ikgong' to 'One Chulmok-One Ikgong'. Since the beam linked directly to the upper part of a capital, it does not connect the eave trave(architrave) in between. Also, Soro which supports Jangyeo(the architrave strip) has been placed and linked in comparatively lower position. It is confirmed by the signigicant difference in the hierarchy of Gong-po forms in one architecture. The Jeonju-Hyanggyo Daeseongjeon, which was built in the 17th century among the subjects, was similar with 'One Chulmok-One Ikgong', but it was found to be the type of Jusimpo form because the bottom of the beam and the top of the Ikong are apart. And Gongan is confirmed at Cheomcha. In the 17th century, it can be seen that Heot-Cheomcha disappeared and Ikgong was started to use as a constant figure. The end of the 18th century, it can be seen that it was changed into a ornament added on Haeng-gong, being seen in the case of Hwaseong Dongjangdae. In conclusion, it can be seen that 'One Chulmok-One Ikgong' were developed in both the Jusimpo and Ikong style. The transformation into 'One Chulmok-One Ikgong' was inevitable consequence related with an elevation difference between the eave trave and the column trave.

• 한국주거학회논문집
• /
• 제25권6호
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2014

The purpose of the study is to understand the unique characteristics of decoration style in traditional Javanese houses. Reviewing literature and visiting site were applied as the research method. Javanese House can be divided into three parts; roof, wall and floor. First, the roof of the traditional Javanese House is the most unique and important decorative element. The roofs are covered with roof-tiles and have clay carving ornaments on top. Usually there are no ceilings, just exposed to the oblique shape roof, which are made of wood to enable air ventilation. Joglo roof is the outstanding and representative roof type of Javanese houses. There is artistic and constructive roof structure named as tumpang sari in Joglo roof. The decoration on tumpang sari is the most colorful and symbolic ornaments. Secondly, the most unique element in the wall is the gebyok. Gebyok is made of wood and full of carved ornament, which has an artistic appearance, and also important function. The top part of doors are designed as perforated woodcarving, which give both aesthetic and ventilation purposes. Last, the stratified floor is begin with ground yard, then veranda that made from hardened clay, and main room constituted with a wood scaffold to provide air circulation and remove the humidity of the ground. The decorations of the column stand (umpak) are unique, where usually lotus flower is carved into black stone or lime stone. The outside of the buildings in Java Houses is not decorated by colors or symbols, whereas colors are only used in temples, pavilion or in royal housings. Instead they have carvings and decorations on important structural elements such as columns and beams inside. The ornaments and colors of decorations symbolize their god, ancestors and piece.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권6호
• /
• pp.112-132
• /
• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권4호
• /
• pp.204-220
• /
• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.87-120
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify the design characteristics of the multi-leveled chest(jang) which was the main furniture of the master bedrom(anbang) in the Chosun Dynasty. The major findings and conclusions were: 1. The front view of the multi-leveled chest were composed of a protruded top panel(kaepan), drawers, folded doors, sectional panels(chwibyok kan and morum kan) and base stand(madae) in general. Variety in the front view found more frequently in single level chests than bi- or tir-level chests. 2. The overall dimensions of each type of chest increased with increase in number of levels, but the height of the sectional parts decreased. That is, the overall proportion of the single level chests were 10 : 9, bi-level chests were 5 : 6, and tri-level chests were 2 : 3. The proportion of 1 : 1, 4 : 5, 1 : 3, 1 : 4, 1 : 5 were found often in the sectional parts such as drawers, doors, chwibyok kans and morum kans. 3. In general, the surface treatments were subtle. Carved or inlayed ornamentation were seldom seen, and most chess were finished with clear lacquer to show the natural wood grain. There were no distinctive characteristics of surface ornamentation characteristic of any one type of chest. 4. The general patterns of the metal ornaments were spade(yowidu), round, bow, rectangular(yakgua), bat and flower shapes. The multi-level chests were decorated with more metal ornament types compared with the single-level chests. 5. In conclusion, there was more variety in all the design elements in the single level chests compared with the other types of chests. The bi-and tri-level chests were quite stylized in composition, size, proportion, surface treatment, and metal ornamentation.

• 복식
• /
• 제39권
• /
• pp.181-196
• /
• 1998

This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권1호
• /
• pp.141-157
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권1호
• /
• pp.30-45
• /
• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.