• 보존과학연구
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• 통권19호
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• pp.23-34
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• 1998

Bokam-ri site was excavated from July 1996 to September 1998 and archaeologically assumed to be grouped with tombs of Mahan period. Among these groups, Tomb No. 3 had built up with stone chamber and found one pair of gilted footware near the jar coffin. This footware was severely corroded and cracked so transfered it gently with soil. Radiography film of this footware showed spike decorations on the bottom and fish-shapped ornament. Gilted footware was consolidated with soil using Paraloid B72 10%~15%solution and cleaned using small tools and microscope. SV427 and HV427 as epoxy resin and Araldite(rapid type) used for joining and restoring. The fore part of gilted footware was connected with nails and folded “L” shape to introduce the bottom material. Tortoise-shell design and flower ornaments appeared on the surface and fish-shaped ornaments, spikes and spangles on the bottom. It was found that 7 spikes and 5 fish-shaped ornaments remained well. Especially, Fish-shaped ornaments were firstly found in the gilted footware and appraised archaeologically important materials.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2003

This study is for analyzing relationship between clothing and shoes design in the 20th century fashion through studying changes of fashion style. At the beginning of the 20th century, the length of skirts became shorten, so that shoes can be shown. For the result of that. shoes has been developed rapidly in its shape, color, material and ornament with having relations with clothes. The 1st World War made fashion to change into economical style. According to that, shoes also changed with regarding its activities and economical efficiency. In the middle of the 20th century. according to the development of mass media. the stars fashion influenced on the trends of clothes and shoes. As young generation. who leads fashion trends, prefer easy and active clothes, shoes also changed into easy style, sneakers were worn widely and platform sole was applied into various shoes. As a result of this study, shoes design was dynamically changed according to fashion style. The study on its functional efficiency is actively studied now however. the study of shoes design is not. When regarding shoes were always worn with clothes, it is impossible to think shoes and clothes are two things. and also I hope the study on relations between clothes and shoes can be more active and consistently implemented.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.549-556
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• 2018

In November 2011, various artifacts were excavated from the No. 8 stone-lined tomb in Suchon-ri, Gongju by the Chungnam Institute of History and Culture. These included artifacts with lacquered mainframe and silvery metal ornament. These were recovered together with soil and underwent conservation treatment. In this paper, we discuss the scientific analysis and conservation treatment of the lacquered artifacts excavated from the Suchon-ri site. Among our findings is that the artifacts have three layers of lacquer coating and the metal parts are primarily composed of Ag. As the artifacts were recovered with soil from the site, the soil was removed from underneath and inside the artifacts. The inside of the lacquerware was reinforced with rayon paper using 3% funori, and the metal was treated with acrylic resin after removing the acrylic resin previously used to recover the artifact, followed by cleaning. The metal was also internally reinforced with gauze. Finally, the interior reinforcement was made using PVA and resin in pulp and attached with funori to preserve the shape of the lacquerware, and the exposed rayon was finished with acrylic paint. The main advantages of this study are its review of conservation treatment strategies for lacquer artifacts whose numbers have recently increased, and the application of new conservation treatment methods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2021

The Taq-i Bustan reliefs are representative works from the Sassanian dynasty of the 4th to 7th centuries. This study analyzes the costumes depicted in the Taq-i Bustan reliefs to gain understanding of the phenomena of cultural exchange between the East and West by observing the foreign cultural elements appearing in the Sassanian costumes of that time. Literature study and artifacts analysis were conducted in parallel. External elements appearing in Taq-i Bustan's costume were Greek-Roman and Central Asian. The tunics and trousers of the gods and the trousers of kings (Ardashir II, Shapur II and Shapur III) were made of thin fabric and showed many wrinkles, a characteristic of Greek and Roman clothing. On the spandrel above the arch of the great grotto of Khusrau II are depicted the goddesses of Victory, in a Greco-Bactrian style. Among the costume elements of Taq-i Bustan, there were also Central Asian elements observed. One Central Asian costume element was the round clasp ornament for tying the trousers. The side slits and hem of the tunic were presented in the style of the Sogd clothing of Central Asia in the 6th and 7th centuries, while the pearl rounded pattern was activated in Sogd, Kucha and Kizyl in the 7th and 8th centuries. These reliefs are considered important evidence of eastern influences in Sassanian culture.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.65-88
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• 2022

With the expansion of the Russian Empire southward in the nineteenth century, connoisseurs, art historians, and scholars in Russia began to pay attention to carpet traditions in the new territories of the Russian Empire in Turkestan. In journals and other specialty publications, they underscored a need to establish claims to authority over the knowledge of the traditional craft. They were highly attuned to parallel accounts of carpet weaving from regions that had a longer history of research and collecting of carpets. In contrast to the situation in Western Europe or the United States, commentators bemoaned the fact that the public and even professed experts in Russia did not properly appreciate carpets from the Caucasus and Central Asia. These scholars articulated a need to establish authority over the carpet weaving traditions of Russia's colonial possessions, resulting in a push toward a serious study of carpet weaving as a legitimate field of inquiry. This paper uses published sources on early carpet scholarship from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to examine how carpet weaving traditions in Central Asia entered an imperial discourse of knowledge. It argues that attempts to understand and categorize carpet weaving as an art form occurred along two fronts. Intellectuals and scholars attempted to wrest control over the locus of knowledge from experts in the West as well as from local weavers. In the process, they established a distinctly imperial vision of carpet weaving in contrast to competing imperial discourses and over traditional forms of knowledge.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2023

Interaction between sedentary and nomadic cultural traditions has played an important role in the centuries-old history of applied arts in Uzbekistan. By the late 19th and early 20th century, driven by urbanization in the region and the gradual transition of nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples to sedentary lifestyles, many industries and traditional cultural forms of formerly nomadic ethnic groups disappeared. Nevertheless, their role in shaping the national cultural identity of the Uzbek people is great. This is true in relation to one of the largest ethnic groups in Uzbekistan, the Kungrats, whose applied art represents a unique, viable, and yet little-studied phenomenon in the national culture of Uzbekistan. The article reviews carpet weaving, one of their surviving crafts, exemplified by qiz-gilam, a unique type of rug made using a combined technique. This study helps to show the nature of historical and cultural interrelations in the carpet weaving of Central Asian peoples and their cultural contacts with the carpet art of neighboring regions more widely and objectively. An important theoretical result of this study is the creation of criteria and tools for identifying qiz-gilam carpets. This allows us to bring clarity to the yet undeveloped system of their identification in museum and gallery practice.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.153-164
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• 2023

As interest in the environment and sustainability increases, a tendency to pursue eco-design is emerging. Sustainable design coincides with the Korean aesthetic sense of applying the principle of the circulation of nature. This study examined Korean traditional furniture, Bandaji, from the perspective of historical and cultural sustainability and extracted and adopted a sustainability-related motif. The purpose of this study was to develop a creative bag design that reflects Korean tradition and strengthens artistry. First, a bag was produced based on the morphological characteristics of Gyeonggi-do Bandaji. Second, though the original overall design was maintained, the decorative patterns were modified by, for example, increasing the number of ear decorations on the surface of the bag and reducing the number of traps. Third, a new geometric pattern was created for the surface of the bag; this entailed moving the position of the handle-shaped ear ornament and the leather. Fourth, new decorative patterns were drawn on the surface. This study is meaningful in that it presents a sustainable bag production methodology that reflects Korean aesthetics. It also showcases a designer's unique, creative, and artistic bag design. It is expected that design work inspired by Korean formative beauty will be an opportunity to simultaneously utilize and support various Korean cultural assets and artworks.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.163-171
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• 2012

The objective of this study was to analyze the characteristics of traditionality expressions at modernized Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong. As a case study, the study examined 12 modernized Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong. The gathered data were categorized and examined according to the ways of traditionality expressions, which included reproduction, transformation, and reinterpretation of traditional components. Each of the components was measured for the amount of traditional or modernity expression on a five-point scale. The five-point scoring system put an emphasis on heritage; 1 point was given to principal modernity(modernity: 90-100% + tradition: 0-10%), 2 points were given to principal modernity + auxiliary tradition(modernity: 70-90% + tradition: 10-30%), 3 points were given to the same ratio between tradition and modernity(modernity: 40-60% + tradition: 40-60%), 4 points were given to principal tradition + auxiliary modernity(modernity: 10-30% + tradition: 70-90%), and 5 points were given to principal tradition(modernity: 0-10% + tradition: 90-100%). The analysis performed according to those criteria and methodologies led to the following findings and conclusions: Traditional components were most reproduced in the ornaments placed all over the restaurant and applied to the chirography of the restaurant logos, walls, and windows/doors in a big number. The methodology of transforming tradition was evenly applied to each of the spatial components. With the most transformations occurring to the lattices, there were many different ways to transform tradition including the partition, chirography, pattern, red lantern, furniture and ornament, and traditional materials that were turned into modern ones. Few examples of reinterpreting tradition were observed in the restaurant titles, inside floors, and ceilings, but plenty of examples were found in the walls, windows/doors, lighting, and furniture in a range of ways. Most of them reinterpreted the traditional forms and added altered patterns to them to remind customers of tradition. In short, all of the three ways of expressing tradition were actively applied to each component in an array of ways.