• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.29
• /
• pp.171-182
• /
• 1996

This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.15-23
• /
• 1977

This article is to study Dopo, man's traditional robe, which was worn by courtiers and scholars in Yi dynasty (AD 1392-1910). This article deals with its history and transition according to relative documents available, and presents its construction method with reference to relics. It is recorded that Dopo was first worn about the middle of the time of Yi dynasty. Dopo, however, seems to have its origin in the robe of Koguryo dynasty (BC 37-AD 668). Dopo was an ordinary robe to court officials, whereas Confucian scholars wore it as an official uniform or a ritual robe. ft was a long over-coat with V-neck line, and, round and wide sleeves. Dopo was so long that its edge reached wearer's ankels. One of the widest sleeves of relics was 58cm in size. Another unique characteristics Dopo had, were that its back cloth splited in two on center line, which was fully covered and added with-another cloth called 'Jeonsam'. Accordingly, a cloth-30cm in width and 30 yards in length-was needed to make Dopo. Since the reform of 1894 it was prohibited to wear, and then was replaced with Durumagi, a strait collar and narrow-sleeved robe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.177-183
• /
• 1978

Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.31 no.3
• /
• pp.299-308
• /
• 2015

Aim of this study is to identify dyestuff of the Dallryeong(official's robe in Joseon Dynasty, 16th century) excavated from Yuryang-dong, Cheonan, in 1996. For this purpose, extracted dyestuffs from Dallryeong fabric and from natural dyestuffs for red color(safflower, Sapanwood, Madder) which are presumed to have been used in the Dallryeong, are analyzed and compared by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). As a result, HPLC chromatogram of extracts of the Dallryeong's dyestuff and safflower are showed a peak at 17.5 minutes. The UV/Vis spectra of the samples are showed the maximum absorption wavelength at 519nm. This result is identical with the analysis of the previous studies on red dyestuff of safflower. In addition, the analysis of Mass Spectrometry(MS) showed the identical result of the peak with m/z 910. Following these results, excavated pink Dallryeong were considered to have been dyed with safflower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.5
• /
• pp.59-70
• /
• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.939-951
• /
• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.463-479
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.85-106
• /
• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.9
• /
• pp.16-31
• /
• 2007

This study is about the costume depicted upon the fraction of fresco which was excavated from Kumseong-li, Hwadae-Gun, Hamkyungbuk-Do, North Korea in 2004. According to the characteristics of its relics, this tomb was reported to belong to Parhae Dynasty(698-926). The fraction of fresco only shows below part of the knees of a man. A light red colored robe reaches down to his ankles on the back, whereas front part of it looks tucked up, which is likely to have slits on both side seams. Although tightly wrapped shins were reported as a pair of gaiters, there is no decisive evidence on the fresco. I suggest another possibility that this man wore slim pants. Also in order to figure out if these shins are considered as gaiters, I proceed comparative research on the historical sources about gaiters of countries and eras adjacent to Parhae. Consequently the idea that people of Parhae might have used gaiters turned out to be acceptable. The black boots show rather basic style: the toe tips are not pointed up, boot leg doesn't look either wide or long. These boots can not be identified with Ammohwa(暗摸靴) which the envoy Yang(楊) gave the protocol Miyakoyoshika(都良香) at his official visit to Japan, because Ammohwa has not yet been properly defined.