• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ocean waves

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Preliminary Study on the Development of a Platform for the Selection of Optimal Beach Stabilization Measures against the Beach Erosion - Centering on the Yearly Sediment Budget of Mang-Bang Beach (해역별 최적 해빈 안정화 공법 선정 Platform 개발을 위한 기초연구-맹방해변 이송모드별 년 표사수지를 중심으로)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Kim, In Ho
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.28-39
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    • 2019
  • In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

Use of Numerical Simulation for Water Area Observation by Microwave Radar (마이크로웨이브 레이더를 이용한 수역관측에 있어서의 수치 시뮬레이션 이용)

  • Yoshida, Takero;Rheem, Chang-Kyu
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.208-218
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    • 2012
  • Numerical simulation technique has been developed to calculate microwave backscattering from water surface. The simulation plays a role of a substitute for experiments. Validation of the simulation was shown by comparing with experimental results. Water area observations by microwave radar have been simulated to evaluate algorithms and systems. Furthermore, the simulation can be used to understand microwave scattering mechanism on the water surface. The simulation has applied to the various methods for water area observations, and the utilizations of the simulation are introduced in this paper. In the case of fixed radar, we show following examples, 1. Radar image with a pulse Doppler radar, 2. Effect of microwave irradiation width and 3. River observation (Water level observation). In addition, another application (4.Synthetic aperture radar image) is also described. The details of the applications are as follows. 1. Radar image with a pulse Doppler radar: A new system for the sea surface observation is suggested by the simulation. A pulse Doppler radar is assumed to obtain radar images that display amplitude and frequency modulation of backscattered microwaves. The simulation results show that the radar images of the frequency modulation is useful to measure sea surface waves. 2. Effect of microwave irradiation width: It is reported (Rheem[2008]) that microwave irradiation width on the sea surface affects Doppler spectra measured by a CW (Continuous wave) Doppler radar. Therefore the relation between the microwave irradiation width and the Doppler spectra is evaluated numerically. We have shown the suitable condition for wave height estimation by a Doppler radar. 3. River observation (Water level observation): We have also evaluated algorithms to estimate water current and water level of river. The same algorithms to estimate sea surface current and sea surface level are applied to the river observation. The simulation is conducted to confirm the accuracy of the river observation by using a pulse Doppler radar. 4. Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) image: SAR images are helpful to observe the global sea surface. However, imaging mechanisms are complicated and validation of analytical algorithms by SAR images is quite difficult. In order to deal with the problems, SAR images in oceanic scenes are simulated.

Classification System of Wetland Ecosystem and Its Application (습지생태계 분류체계의 검토 및 적용방안 연구)

  • Chun, Seung Hoon;Lee, Byung Hee;Lee, Sang Don;Lee, Yong Tae
    • Journal of Wetlands Research
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.55-70
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    • 2004
  • The wetland ecosystem is a complex products of various erosion force, accumulation as water flows, hydrogeomorphic units, seasonal changes, the amount of rainfalls, and other essential element. There is no single, correct, ecologically sound definition for wetlands because of the diversity of wetlands and the demarcation between dry and wet environments occurs along a continuum, but wetland plays various ecosystem functions. Despite comprehensive integration through classification and impact factors there is still lacking in systematic management of wetlands. Classification system developed by the USFWS(1979) is hierarchical progresses from systems and subsystems at general levels to classes, subclasses, dominance types, and habitat modifiers. Systems and subsystems are delineated according to major physical attributes such as tidal flushing, ocean-derived salts, and the energy of flowing water or waves. Classes and subclasses describe the type of substrate and habitat or the physiognomy of the vegetation or faunal assemblage. Wetland classes are divided into physical types and biotic types. For the wise management of wetlands in Korea, this study was carried out to examine methodology of USFWS classification system and discuss its application for Korean wetland hydrogeomorphic units already known. Seven wetland types were chosen as study sites in Korea divided into some different types based on USFWS system. Three wetland types belonging to palustrine system showed no difference between Wangdungjae wetland and Mujechi wetland, but Youngnup of Mt. Daeam was different from the former two types at the level of dominant types. This fact means that setting of classification system for management of wetland is needed. Although we may never know much about the wetland resources that have been lost, there are opportunities to conserve the riches that remain. Extensive inventory of all wetland types and documentation of their ecosystem functions are vital. Unique and vulnerable examples in particular need to be identified and protected. Furthermore, a framework with which to demonstrate wetland characteristics and relationships is needed that is sufficiently detailed to achieve the identification of the integrity and salient features of an enormous range of wetland types.

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Distribution Patterns of Surface Sediments of the Jangan Linear Sand Ridge off the Northern Taean Peninsula, in the Mid-west Coast of Korea (서해 중부 태안반도 북부 해역의 장안사퇴 표층퇴적물 분포 특성)

  • TAE SOO CHANG;EUNIL LEE;DO-SEONG BYUN;HWAYOUNG LEE;SEUNG-GYUN BAEK
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.29 no.1
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    • pp.14-27
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    • 2024
  • Unlike the shelf sand ridges moribund in motion, nearshore sand ridges are highly mobile, sensitive to changes in ocean environments, thereby becoming of particular interest with respect to morphological changes. About 5 km off the Daesan port, the Jangan Sand Ridge has been undergoing severe subsea morphological change over the past two decades. Understanding the nature of sand ridges is critical to elucidate the causes of morphological changes. In this context, this study aims at understanding the characteristics and distribution patterns of surface sediments of the ridge and its vicinity. For this purpose, 227 sediment samples were acquired using a grab-sampler, the grain sizes being analysed by the sieve-pipette method. In addition, comparison of grain sizes in sediments between 1997 and 2021 was made in order to investigate the 25-years change in sediment composition. Surface sediments along the ridge axis are fine to medium sands with 2-3 phi in mean grain size, whereas, in the trough of ridge, the sediments are composed of gravels and muddy sandy gravels with mean sizes of -2 to -6 phi. Sediments in the crest of the ridge are well-sorted with normal distribution, on the other hand, the basal sediments are poorly-sorted and positively skewed. Along the ridge crest, the sediments are negatively skewed. From 1997 to 2021, the ridge sediments became largely coarser about 0.5 phi. Such coarsening trend in mean grain size can be explained either by elimination of fine sediments during high waves in winter or elimination of fines suspended during sand mining activities in the past. Spatial distribution pattern of surface sediments shows that ca. 30 m thick of the sand ridge itself overlies the thin relict gravels. The strong asymmetry of sand ridge, the exposure of ridge base, and reworked gravel lags suggest that Jangan sand ridge is probably sediment-deficit and hence erosive in nature at present.