• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.613-628
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• 2013

This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.771-783
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• 2008

In this paper, I studied the trends of naturalism reflected on the fashion trends in 2000s, and the design characteristics of naturalism showed in modern fashions, based on the information about women's wear trend serviced by www.samsungdesign.net. The analysis was focused on the Comme des Garcons collections, and the results are as follows. First, in modern society, the scientific and realistic concept of naturalism was being shifted to nature-friendly and actual concept which harmonized with nature conceived to be important in environments. Second, the interests on well-being and LOHAS introduced the actual naturalism, and the naturalism became a prominent trend at turning times to 21th century. Third, the concepts of naturalism showed in modern fashions could be categorized into ecology, primitive, retro and exotic trends. Finally, the Comme des Garcons collections did not follow a passing fashion trend only, instead they formed unformalized natural silhouette and details in the view of new analysis and philosophy of themselves. The silhouette represented a natural sense in harmony with colors of simple materials.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to formulate a concept of naturalism in fashion and verify the design characteristics found in such designs via reviewing the concept of naturalism and its influence on dress making in different periods in history. The references from various academic fields including philosophy, literature and fine arts were used to examine how the naturalism was formulated over the years. This study was then to identify the naturalistic influences by closely examining various Western dress codes found in literature, publications and actual samples. The results of this study shows that the close examination of naturalism in fashion with the changes of times displayed the complex evolution process over the years, and they were classified by four distinctive categories; Retro, Ecology, Primitive and Ethnic. Naturalism in the contemporary fashion design showed higher frequency of adopting ecological and retro styles, especially retro style adoption being on the rise, combining wide range of partial components of each style. The color usage showed the skewed concentration on YellowRed, Red and Yellow colors with pale, light grayish and grayish tones.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제18호
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• pp.51-58
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• 1999

The aim of this study is to discover the organic expression principles of the 20C. Architecture. As a result, first, the organic expression principles was organised in six categories, a. naturalism b. neo-naturalism, c. realism, d. abstractionism, e. regionalism, f. functionalism. Second, among the organic expression principles, the naturalism, the neo-naturalism and the abstractionism were the most dominant organic expression principles of the 20C. Architecture. Third, from 1960, the functionalism have become one of the most dominant organic expression of the 20C. Architecture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1259-1271
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• 2011

This study investigates and compares the changes of naturalism in fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of naturalism in fashion. Data were collected from 59 volumes of the "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 440 words and these were condensed into three periods according to decade(1980~1989, 1990~1999, and 2000~2009). The selected words were classified into four sub-themes according to the previous research definitions such as primitive look, natural look, eco look and handcrafted look. The results are as follows. First, naturalism of fashion was highly presented in the 1980s but the percentages of naturalism in three decades were all more or less similar. Especially, natural look appeared more in the 1980s and eco look was in the 1990s, while natural look, eco look and handcrafted look were found all together in the 2000s. Second, naturalism of fashion showed higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1990s, while S/S seasons in the 1990s and 2000s. In particular, natural look was presented more at S/S seasons. The sub-themes coexistence were presented in the 24 seasons out of 59 seasons and showed more variously in the 2000s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of naturalism in fashion demonstrated the differences by decade.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제27호
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• pp.145-151
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• 2001

There is so much difference in the way we perceive nature whether from eastern or western, present or past standpoint. however, awareness of coexistence between human beings and nature along with the concept that the most natural is th e most beautiful remain unchanged. The desire to describe the beauty of nature have existed all through the ages, but the (new) naturalism movement was spawned in our time when so much devastation and side effects took place for the expediency of nature, and field of display has been trying new interpretation of nature with direct or applied method. Naturalism trend is studied using the categories such as relationship between human and nature, space concept in western and eastern society, and the definition of view of nature in modern time. Elements of naturalism display are classified into the element of physical properties and element beyond the physical properties, and then methodology on naturalism display is investigated, using the illustration of display examples, in order to know the most essential elements of display, which are the physical properties such as space, light, object, glass, are expressed based on the elemental concept like nature, an accident, dynamic state, variability. As mentioned above, Naturalism display consists of physical properties and phenomenon. How to ive strong impression to a spectator depends on the ability to create effective space applying these elements. The significance of this study comes to surface in a time when the tremendous emphasis is put on the importance of nature and concerns about the role of display has become even greater.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.63-70
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• 2006

This study investigates and analyzes natural traits in Gaudi's architectural designs on the assumption that the naturalism in his architectural designs has been built heavily on regional cultural background. In particular, focusing on four buildings Gaudi designed in his late years, this study distinguishes between natural traits found in ornaments and details, and natural traits as organic expression of form. This study shows, first, with regard to natural traits in ornaments and details, organic motives were applied to patterns, plastic objects, and parts of the building. Second, natural traits in organic expression of form were reflected by typifying $Catalu\tilde{n}a$ regional nature, using curved lines of organic shapes and realizing lively natural creatures. It is remarkable that Gaudi developed his architectural designs as unique magic naturalism based on his imagination. And In this century 'Regional Culture' gets more important in architectural designs. Gaudi's architectural works can be appreciated to represent very well $Catalu\tilde{n}a$ regional cultural identity by using properly its natural motives and objects.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.78-87
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• 2003

Based on the qualitative analysis regarding five dominant characteristics of fashion in the transitional period of the 21s1 century, subsequent quantitative analysis was conducted and the following results were obtained. First, it was found that 85% of the clothes analyzed showed these five characteristics. Secondly, among the five characteristics, the new-naturalism shows the most significant trend and neo-retro was also found as one of the leading features along with the new-naturalism in the transitional period of the 21 st century. However, the frequency of technicism is less than was expected. Thirdly, analysis of the distribution of fashion characteristics according to fashion designers and seasonal changes show that new-naturalism, neo-retro and hybrid spread relatively evenly among each designer. The quantitative study confined the results obtained through the qualitative study.