• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2021

Safflower, a natural dye representing red, is the dye that materials and dyeing method are recorded in the literature, including materials and dyeing. Although the safflower is the same, the ash used as a mordant is recorded differently in each literature, which greatly affects the aesthetic perspective in realizing the traditional safflower red. Therefore, the optimal conditions for realizing the traditional safflower red were sought. The experiment was conducted by pH investigation, dyeing and color analysis by dyeing solution water, concentration, and temperature by ash, and the unique color of red was confirmed. As a result of the test, the pH point of time when the uniq ue color was expressed was 11.53 as goosefoot ash (natural bedrock water), which was 1:100 for concentration and 70℃ for temperature, which was easier to extract red pigment than other ash, indicating that it is suitable for safflower dyeing. The analysis of the ash showed that K and Si play an important role in dyeing, especially Si, which is an element that inhibits carthamon. The color of red was similar to that of KS Standard vivid purplish red in the ash of the goosefoot, and the other ash was deep purplish pink. In the light of findings, it was possible to quantify the dyeing method through traditional materials and find the standard color of red color, and it is judged to be a basic data for studying the unique color of natural materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.263-269
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• 2002

This research was conducted to establish the efficient use of the colored rice bran fur dyeing textiles. To investigate the fabric dyeability of the colored rice bran extract, the anthocyanin pigments were extracted with water of different temperature ranges of 40 ~ 8$0^{\circ}C$ and were dyed on silk fabrics with different dyeing temperature $25^{\circ}C$~6$0^{\circ}C$, at acidic pH and neutral pH, respectively. Aluminum chloride was preheated with mordant K/S value and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics were examined. The anthocyanins of the colored rice bran were stable and red color at acidic pH, red purple or purple blue at neutral pH, but unstable, blue color at alkaline pH. If extracting temperature and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution were higher, the dyeability was high, but the color of dyed fabric showed red tone. When extracting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution was 6$0^{\circ}C$, the dyeability was best. Without mordant, the dyeability of silk fabrics was higher in acidic pH than in neutral pH solution. With mordant, the dyeability was higher than without mordant, and also higher in acidic pH. Pretreatment of aluminum chloride resulted in the increase of color intensity and stability. The laundering fastness of dyed fabrics was good from grade 5 to grade 3-4. Because of the anthocyanins sensitivity on light radiation, the light fastness of dyed fabrics was poor from grade 3 to grade 1-2.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.93-105
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• 2002

Nylon fabrics and stocking were dyed with artemisia dyeing solution, dyed with the natural dyestuffs that were manufactured from chestnut hulls by boiling in 0.5% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer, and dyed with gromwell dyeing solution. Dyeabilities on nylon fabrics and stocking were good because of being amine group. All the dyed fabrics & stocking showed excellent in color fastness to laundering, and as poor as grade 1 to light fastness. But Light fastness of them could be improved to grade 3 or 4-5 by treatment with gallic acid and by repeated dyeing. Antimicrobial activities of the fabrics dyed with artemisia and gromwell against Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans were excellent in the aspect of bacteriostatic and fungistatic. There were not any distinct differences between mordant and non-mordant fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.141-149
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• 2018

This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of eco-friendly leather dyeing by utilizing food wastes. Natural dyeing of eel skin was attempted using onion peels which have been used commonly for natural dyeing of textile fabrics. Eel skin is a by-product from fishery processing and is used mainly for making leather products. The colorant was extracted from onion peels in boiling water, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Dyeing of eel skin was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, drape stiffness and colorfastness. The optimum dyeing conditions were $60^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 60min of dyeing time at 1:100($H_2O$ 90%: ethanol 10%) of bath ratio. The onion peels produced yellowish color on eel skin. The pre-mordanting was effective than the post-mordanting. As a result of the drape stiffness measurement, the Fe-mordanted sample was somewhat stiffer comparing to other mordanted samples. The light fastness of the non-mordant dye was excellent in 3-4 grade. Drycleaning fastness and rubbing fastness showed excellent results, but fastness was not significantly improved by mordanting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-148
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effect of dyeing conditions and mordanting effect on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FT-IR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins were contained in the extracted colorant. Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. Mordanting improved dye uptake regardless of mordant type, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabric with mordanting showed YR Munsell color except of the Fe($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) mordanted sample showing Y Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3/4 except that the dyed samples with Fe mordanting showed grade 2. It is necessary to apply Metasequoia cone colorant onto other fibers, especially protein fibers, for evaluating its efficacy as a new natural dye resource.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

To investigate natural dyeing properties of bast fiber, properties of pre mordanting dyeing of sappan wood, gardenia and gallnut such as K/S values, developed color, and fastness were evaluated. Silk showed the most increased K/S values by pre mordanting treatment when Fe was uses as a mordant. The optimized amount of Fe was 3%. The colors of sappan wood was a series of YR. After pre mordanting treatment with Fe, the colors of bast fiber of mulberry and silk showed a series of RP, and the color of cotton showed a series of Y. The color of gallnut was a series of Y regardless of pre mordant treatment. Sappon wood (YR), gardenia (Y), and gallnut (Y) showed various colors such as YR, R, and RP, respectively. Sunlight fastness was not improved by pre mordanting treatment. The effect of pre mordanting treatment was not good. Especially the treatment with Al showed poor sunlight fastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.