• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.212-223
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• 2017

This research investigated the screen printing method for natural indigo dye on cotton fabric. We examined four types of thickening agents (arabic gum, guar gum, indalca, and CMC) based on their ability to retard the oxidation of natural indigo print paste while the paste remained on the screen frame. The results indicated that the retardation of arabic gum towards oxidation was the greatest among the four types of thickening agents. The highest K/S value of the printed cotton was observed with a dye concentration of 50g/L fermented indigo powder. The best printing results were obtained when the duration of dye efficiency was tested for the 10 minutes of the dye paste remaining on the screen with a thickening agent concentration of 26.56% that represented 530 cps viscosity. The test of colorfastness to washing and rubbing of the printed cotton resulted in grade 5, and the colorfastness to sunlight resulted in grade 4. Chinese traditional Naminwhapo printing was reproduced on cotton fabric using the natural indigo printing method derived from this study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.20-28
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• 1998

Natural indigo colorants were prepared by extraction of polygonum tintorium which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). The components were analyzed by TLC and HPLC, and its structures were analyzed by FT-IR, EI-mass and NMR. The dyeing mechanism and fermentation conditions were investigated. Its colour fastness was studied as well. The results obtained are summarized as follows ; The natural indigo powder was dissolved in DMSO and developed in eluent, $CHCl_3/CH_3CN(8.5:1.5v/v)$ by means of TLC for its quality analysis. It was segregated into indirubin as il red colour and indigo as a blue colour. In case of HPLC analysis, the retention times of indirubin and indigo were 7.442 and 6.543, respectively. FT-IR spectrum of indirubin showed a peak for NH residue between 3200 and $3300cm^{-1}.^1H-NMR$ spectrum for indigo displayed AA'BB' spin system caused by indole structure between 6.5 and 7.7ppm of H4, 5, 6 and 7, and -NH proton for indirubin showed an singlet between 10.88 and. 11.0ppm. EI-mass spectrum of indigo an d indirubin both disclosed their molecular size as 262 and it implies that these two substances are isomer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.96-104
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The physiological effects of natural color extracts from colorant plants(gardenia, beet and indigo) were studied. The methanol extract of indigo showed an inhibitory effect on the growth of E. coli and Staph. aureus, and also showed a strong antimicrobial effect on Trich. mentagrophytes compared to others. The methanol extract of indigo showed antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B1(AFB1) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. The proliferation of Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells was inhibited by the methanol extract of indigo. So we decided to use natural indigo for dyeing the fabrics because of those effects. Dried indigo leaves were fermented at variouss temperature and the fermented indigo was reduced by using alkaline(NaOH, Ca(OH)2) and glucose to dye the fabrics. The values of K/S fermented indigo showed the highest value when it was fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$. The indigo fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$ had the greatest number of total bacterial counts and we identified one of the main microorganisms as Aspergillus niger. This microorganism was responsible for the indigo fermentation and accelerated indigo fermentation. So it can be supposed to reduce the fermentation period of indigo by inoculating Aspergillus niger into the indigo leaves at 3$0^{\circ}C$.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.295-302
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• 2013

Indigo is utilized in various industries including textile dyeing, cosmetics, printing and medicinal products and its reduced form, leuco-indigo, is mainly used in these process. Chemical reducing agent (sodium dithionite, sodium sulfide, etc.) is preferred to use for the formation of leucoindigo in industry. In traditional indigo fermentation process, microorganisms can participate in the reduction of indigo and thus it has been known to reduce environmental pollution and noxious byproducts. However, in fermentation method using microorganisms it is difficult to standardize large scale production process due to low yield and reproducibility. In this study, we attempted to develop the indigo reduction process using microbial flora which was isolated from naturally fermented indigo vat or deduced by metagenomic approach. From the results of library analyses of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA genes from the traditional indigo fermentation vat sample (metagenome), it was confirmed that Alkalibacteriums (71%) was distinctly dominant in population. Some strains were identified after confirming that they become pure culture in nutrient media modified slightly. Four strains were separated in this process and each strain showed obvious reducing ability toward indigo in dyeing test. It is expected that the analyzed results will provide important data for standardizing the natural fermentation of indigo and investigating the mechanism of indigo reduction.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.241-248
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• 2001

Natural indigo dyeing has been used mainly on cellulosic fibers and silk during the course of history in Korea. In order to extend the usage of this one of the most important natural dyes, its dyeability on wool fabrics has been studied to find out the optimum dyeing condition for wool fiber which is susceptible to alkaline medium. The dyeing method used was hydrosulphite vat of extracted dye. K/S values of dyed fabrics were investigated to analyze the dyeability of natural indigo on wool fibers and colors were measured through $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell Values. Highest K/S values were obtained at the temperature of 60(C and pH 7 to 8. The Munsell Values for hue of wool fabrics dyed with extracted indigo powder using hydrosulphite vat fell mostly in PB range. As the dyebath pH increased, blueness increased. Different dyeing conditions resulted in change of colors of dyed fabrics due to the difference in amounts of indigotin and indirubin contents within the dyed fiber as shown by HPLC.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.29-39
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• 2009

The color mixture, obtained from Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, was applied to cellulose fibers such as cotton, linen and rayon to diversify color gamut of natural dyes. The color mixture was tried with two different methods. The first process was that cellulose fibers were dyed with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution, and then dyed 1 to 4 times with Indigo. The second process was dyeing 1 to 7 times with Indigo, followed by dyeing with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution. K/S value of the dyed fibers with one colorant and color mixture increased in the order of linen, cotton, rayon. It was also found that the first process could give higher K/S values than the second process.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.04a
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• pp.102-104
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye was prepared by extracting from Polygonum tintorium, precipitating with calcium hydroxide, and dried. Dyeing was carried out using sodium hydrosulfite as a reducing agent for the prepared natural indigo powder. K/S value, color property, and colorfastness of dyed fabrics were investigated. Optimum dyeing conditions obtained were 60$^{\circ}C$, 20min. Regardless of indigo dye and sodium hydrosulfite concentration, Munsell hue of dyed fabrics was PB color. Compared to the dyed fabric with both sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulfite, those with sodium hydrosulfite only showed higher color strength(K/S value). Colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed high rating except of wash/dry cleaning fastness of silk fabrics dyed low color strength.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.