• 디지털융복합연구
• /
• 제16권12호
• /
• pp.593-602
• /
• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 적색계 천연염료를 이용한 견직물의 무매염 염색을 다룬 국내논문들을 고찰하여 무매염 염색의 염색성을 알아보는 것이다. 연구대상인 천연염재는 자색 고구마, 봉선화, 오디, 광나무 열매, 구아바 잎, 단삼, 히비스커스 꽃, 복숭아나무 전정가지로 총 8가지이다. 염색실험의 결과는 색차식에 의하여 $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, C 및 ${\Delta}E^*$와 Munsell표에 의한 H V/C, Kubelka Munk식에 따라 K/S값을 산출하여 표면색을 측정하여 살펴보았다. 염색실험 변인은 염액농도, 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색반복횟수이며, 변인의 변화에 따라 염색성과 색채특성을 알아보았다. 문헌고찰 결과, 염색실험 변인은 견직물에 대한 천연염료의 염착성과 상관관계가 있을 뿐만 아니라 적색 발현에도 상관관계가 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 천연염색 과정에서 환경오염을 일으키는 반복적인 염색이나 매염제 사용 등을 하지 않아도 적색이 다양하게 발현되고 염색성도 우수할 수 있음을 보였다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권3호
• /
• pp.380-390
• /
• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.371-381
• /
• 2010

The pine needles can be used for four seasons in normal living and it can be taken friendly everywhere as it is distributed over 50% in Korea. The pine needles consist of vitamins, protein, minerals, essential oil and enzyme related to antimicrobial activity. It has effect like high blood pressure, neuralgia and hanged over by terpene, glucokinin, rutin, apigenic acid and tannin. Also the extract of them can be used for dyeing of fabrics. However, the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the volatile components of the pine needles extract and functionality. The pine needles extract was dyed into various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool and soybean) and mordanted with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe and Sn. The extracted aroma compounds were compared by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The major volatile compounds of pine needles verified by using SPME were alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, beta-phellandrene, caryophyllene, ethanon, benzen. A total of 15 compounds were identified by using the SPME fibers. In the UV-visible spectra, the maximum absorption of wavelength of the pine needles ethanol extract appeared at 460, 630nm for chlorophyll component and at 237, 281nm for tannin component with the pine needles distilled water extract. Most of sample showed high antibacterial effect in none mordant but wool fabric showed high antibacterial effect in mordants. The result of UV block test showed a superior ability of blocking ultraviolet ray infiltration in all sample.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.825-833
• /
• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• 한국작물학회지
• /
• 제58권2호
• /
• pp.113-118
• /
• 2013

본 연구는 자색 옥수수 부산물인 옥수수 줄기와 잎을 이용하여 염액을 추출하여 여러 가지 염색 조건에서 염색정도를 관찰하고 자색옥수수 부산물의 염료로서의 가능성을 타진하여 이용성 증진을 위한 기초자료를 제공하고자 실시하였다. 1. 자색 옥수수 추출시 pH에 따른 흡광도의 변화가 없으므로 자색 옥수수 색소 함량을 측정하기 위하여 UV 흡광도를 측정할 때 520~560 nm를 이용하는 것이 효율적일 것으로 생각된다. 2. 자색 옥수수 잎 추출물로 염색한 silk와 cotton은 pH가 높아질수록 직물의 밝기와 적색도가 낮아졌다. 줄기 추출물의 경우에는 뚜렷한 경향을 나타내지는 않았지만 pH 값이 높아질수록 밝기와 적색도가 높아지는 경향을 나타내었다. 3. 농도에 따른 직물의 염색 정도는 silk와 cotton 모두 농도가 높아질수록 밝기는 낮아지고 적색도는 증가하는 경향을 나타내었다. 4. Silk와 cotton은 일반적으로 염색시간이 길어질수록 명도가 증가하고, 적색도는 감소하는 경향을 나타내었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권7호
• /
• pp.55-62
• /
• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.11-19
• /
• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• 보존과학회지
• /
• 제31권3호
• /
• pp.299-308
• /
• 2015

본 연구는 1996년 천안시 유량동에서 출토된 분홍색 단령의 염료 동정을 통해 조선시대에 사용된 적색 염료를 실증하기 위한 것이다. 이를 위해 유물에 사용된 염료를 추출하고 이것을 당시 염색에 사용되었을 것으로 추정되는 적색계 염료(홍화, 소목, 꼭두서니)에서 추출한 염료와 함께 고성능액체크로마토그래피분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 유물에서 추출한 염료와 홍화염색포의 추출 염료는 같은 시간대인 17.5분에서 피크가 나타났다. 이때 자외/가시선 분광 분석 결과는 두 시료 모두 519nm에서 최대흡수파장이 나타나 기존 홍화의 홍색소 분석 결과와 같은 것으로 조사되었다. 또한 negative ion mode에서 질량분석을 실시한 결과 유물과 홍화 염색포에서 추출한 염료 시료는 carthamin의 분자량인 910을 나타내는 m/z 909에서 같은 시간대의 피크가 확인되었다. 이와 같은 결과로 이 분홍 단령 직물을 염색하는데 사용된 염재는 홍화인 것으로 동정되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권9_10
• /
• pp.1408-1417
• /
• 2007

In Korea, to deal with the housing needs of the elderly, the government operates free nursing homes and residential homes. And to deal with the needs for daily necessities, imported products or products for the disabled have been supplied for the elderly. The government has recognized the importance of silver industry in this rapidly aging society and has established strategies to vitalize industries related to seniors to deal with the seniors' need for food, clothing, and shelter. This study examined the necessity of nursing home gowns, and the development of nursing home gowns that are environmentally friendly, beautiful and functional for the new silver generation. For this study, literature review and Internet search were conducted regarding the status of silver fashion, necessity of nursing home gowns, emergence of new silver generation and change in lifestyle, and value and utilization of natural dye and traditional patterns. To produce nursing home gowns, fabric was dyed using fermented indigo dying, and 3 styles of nursing home gowns for each gender were designed in consideration of seasons. Lastly, these gowns were evaluated by fashion experts, medical personnel, hospital gown and silver wear experts, and natural dye experts. The results showed that the traditional Korean designs developed in this study were excellent and the fermented indigo dye was appropriate for the nursing home gowns. The development of nursing home gowns in this study will be utilized as basic material for the development of silver wear and nursing home gowns to improve the quality of life for the seniors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제9권2호
• /
• pp.145-150
• /
• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.