The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.34
no.2
/
pp.291-302
/
2010
This study details the actual wearing conditions and favored design of ready-made pants for obese women, particularly for those in their twenties and thirties. The actual problems that customers feel and the preferred design of pants were suggested based on the survey and from the standpoint of consumers. The findings of the survey are as follows. The actual wearing conditions in the survey, 80.5% like wearing pants. The main reason to prefer pants is that pants are more convenient for social or professional work activities. The main reason to avoid wearing pants is that the pants (in general) do not mask an obese body shape. The most favored was Denim/Elastic and the second most favored was Cotton/Elastic from the survey. On average, elastic materials are preferred over non-elastic materials. The reason was the comfort in wearing and convenience in social or professional activities that could mask obesity. In terms of the style, the most favored was blue jeans and the second favored was semi-formal. A straight-silhouette is the most favored as it was able to help mask obesity. The most favored position for the waistline is 4 cm lower than the natural waistline. The most favored pant length is where the pants slightly touch the floor when they stand with shoes on. For obese women the pants development that covers the weak points of the body shape giving, which is comfortable and active are desired.
The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.
Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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v.15
no.10
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pp.2157-2163
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2011
In this paper, we designed 2D, 2.5D cloth design system and a 3D cloth animation system. They make the 3D cloth animation possible by using coordinate points extracted from 2D and 2.5D cloth design system in order to realize a system that allows customers to wear clothes in the virtual space. To make natural draping, it uses for description the mesh creation and transformation algorithms, path extraction algorithm, warp algorithm, and brightness extraction and application algorithms. The coordinate points extracted here are received as text format data and inputted as clothing information in the cloth file. Moreover, the cloth file has a 2D pattern and is realized to be used in the 3D cloth animation system. The 3D cloth animation system generated in this way builds a web-based fashion mall using ISB (Internet Space Builder) and lets customers view the clothing animation on the web by adding the animation process to the simulation result.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.8
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pp.1275-1287
/
2006
This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.
The purpose of this study was to examine the cases of the family head's costume culture and to apply them to field experience education of adolescent's home economics subject. To examine the family head's costume culture, women in the family head in the Hampyeong area, Jeollanam-do were selected and interviewed. The focus of examining the family head's costume culture was on the life story of the family head, the reason to wear or possess such costume, and a motive of making. The findings of the head family's costume culture suggests that the head family of the Mos of Hampyeong had unique shroud making and custom. Also it was found that the eldest daughters-in-law of the Lees of Hampyeong have horizontally exchanged the information of the family head's costume with village women of the same family. They have initiated their costume culture directly through their daughters and it had the great influence on after-ages. The learning program for youth to experience the head family's costume culture consisted of four subjects:(l)Educating the family head's traditional living culture including etiquette training, (2)head family village walk, (3)experiencing the family head's clothes life including natural dyeing and sewing, and (4)a field trip of Hampyeong Local Life Culture Museum. For a model experience of the family head's costume life culture, three families with middle and high schoolers participated in 8- hour experience learning program. To examine the effect of learning program to experience the family head's costume culture, youth and their parents who participated in the program were asked open-ended questions, which included the content validity of experience learning, impressive experience, model experience level(difficulty), and expected effect after a model experience. As a result, their responses were found positive.
Reason for contemporary ethnic-look's remarkable world popularity is viewed as due to counteraction of disordered world conditions such as war, terror, and economic depression. These conditions led people to desire the returning to primitive human society where freedom and peace are preserved. The background of ethnic look emergence is influences of post-modernism, eastern and western culture hybrid, and ecology. This study will mainly focus on the analysis of present ethnic fashion trend and, with following to this, their images will be analyzed and categorized. The result of ethnic trend, especially that of Asian's and African's, from 2000 to 2005 is like this: representative Asian ethnic fashion tendency is focusing on Japanese and Chinese. In Japanese style, oversized silhouette was derived by Kimono and wide belt was appeared by influence of Kimono's Obi. Chinese ethic style are analyzed as adapting feministic silhouette and details from Chinese traditional clothes, Chipao. Additionally, in some of the Chinese ethnic-look, there are mixtures with Japanese, North American, and African's images. Mixing with pop images and ancient ones are also emerged. In the African ethnic look, people used colorful cloth and new materials which is considered as integration of primitives and modern science. From the study, it is possible to conclude that current modern ethnic fashion can be defined as blends with one country's image to the other, mixture with new technology, and acceptance to the multi-national folk fashion. These trends are widely revealed and extended in the world fashion. In the following result of the analysis, there were four outstanding images lying underneath in the present ethnic-look. That is eclectic, traditional, natural, and mysterious images.
Wild ginseng production is increasing due to forest recovery for last 30 years. Total number of Symmani (traditional mountain ginseng digger) was 558 in 2001. Provincial distribution of Symmani in 2001 was highest in Kangwon $(32\%),$ next in Choongbook $(21\%)$ and least in Jeonnam $(0.7\%)$ and Kyoungnam $(0.9\%).$ Age distribution of Symmani was $33\%\;for\;fourties,\;32\%$ for fifties and $20\%$ for sixties. There were 8 persons in eighties. Symmanies are still keeping traditional ritual for mountain god serving clothes of colored ribbons and foods. Increased production induced open market system from underground dealing of mountain ginseng. Korea Mountain Ginseng Association established mountain ginseng assessment committee with professional Symmanies in 2001. From September to November in 2001, 987 roots were requested for quality assessment to the committee and 476 roots $(48\%)$ were passed and graded and others were rejected. Highest frequency of rejection was foreign origin. Pass rate was highest $(74\%)$ in Choongnam suggesting best place for quality. Number of collected roots in each province was positively correlated (p=0.05) with number of Symmanies. There are 3 quality groups of mountain ginseng, Heaven (pure natural), Earth (from seeding of wild ginseng) and Man (from seeding or seedling of wild ginseng with slight environmental modification). The relationship between price and age was polynomial in high quality root, Heaven, Earth and seed long head of Man group, and linear in low quality group, seedling long head of Man. The best one in 2001 was 26 g, 124 years old and sold with 109 million won. Quality criteria are age, shape, weight, color and healthy outlook. Fine roots are criteria for health status of roots and taproot is criteria for efficacy and called as medicine barrel. The implication is that ginsenosides have rarely been experienced for efficacy. The quality criteria of cultivated ginseng were originated from those of mountain ginseng. It is unique for mountain ginseng that only fresh one can be on market. Since quality criteria of mountain ginseng must be based on the efficacy experience it is well expected that present criteria might almost be established at the age of Shinnong Materia Medica.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.23
no.4
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pp.57-71
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2021
The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.
This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.
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