• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1595-1607
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the reason why the National Mourning Dress System of the Joseon Dynasty had been established although the General Mourning Dress System had exist through research of three things; differences of each social class, changes of the National Mourning Dress System by the age and differences between the National one and the General one. The methodology which is adopted for this study is comparative analysis by social class, period and age from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the Orye-e. And this study is focus on the women's dress. The results of this study is as follows; Firstly, some mourning dress items had been different or not used by class. Secondly, although there had not been a great change, some dress items had been disappeared or used irregularly. And Naemyoungbu Naekwan's mourning dress had been changed by the age. Thirdly, The National one was more extensive in wearing and applied differently by class compare to the General one. Also it had an additional rule according to the period, duty and place to Naemyoungbu-Naekwan and Naemyoungbu-Goongkwan. The National one had been established by ruling class of The Joseon Dynasty who had tried to keep the Confucian standard and perfect social status system. And it is supposed that the National Mourning Dress System had not been a great change because the ruling class' will had not been changed.