Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.1
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pp.183-190
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2016
A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.
This study compares and contrasts Freud's "work of mourning" which mostly appears in his memorable essay "Mourning and Melancholia" and Derrida's theory of mourning which appears in various works such as MEMOIRES for Paul de Man, The Work of Mourning, and others. Freud maintains that the mourner begins to sever emotional ties to the lost object through a labor of memory and eventually completes the work of mourning. It is a "testing of reality" that motivates the mourner to begin to relinquish emotional attachment to the lost object. Derrida, however, challenges Freudian work of mourning by saying that true mourning lies in "respecting the Otherness of the Other." Derrida suggests that Freud's "normal work of mourning" is "unjust betrayal" of the lost object because it "kills" and "devours" the other and thereby makes it part of the self. So he proposes that work of mourning has "to fail in order to succeed": "success fails" and "failure succeeds." There is an enormous, even epistemological, chasm between Freud who states that mourning, "however painful it may be, comes to a spontaneous end" and Derrida who states that "mourning is interminable. Inconsolable. Irreconcilable." and "I mourn Therefore I am." The former is the voice of "testing of reality" and common sense whereas the latter is that of utopian ethical vision. Yet neither seems to get the upper hand and they are kind of forced to maintain an ongoing dialogue with each other, for true mourning seems to lie somewhere in between.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.32
no.10
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pp.1595-1607
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2008
The purpose of this study is to find the reason why the National Mourning Dress System of the Joseon Dynasty had been established although the General Mourning Dress System had exist through research of three things; differences of each social class, changes of the National Mourning Dress System by the age and differences between the National one and the General one. The methodology which is adopted for this study is comparative analysis by social class, period and age from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty and the Orye-e. And this study is focus on the women's dress. The results of this study is as follows; Firstly, some mourning dress items had been different or not used by class. Secondly, although there had not been a great change, some dress items had been disappeared or used irregularly. And Naemyoungbu Naekwan's mourning dress had been changed by the age. Thirdly, The National one was more extensive in wearing and applied differently by class compare to the General one. Also it had an additional rule according to the period, duty and place to Naemyoungbu-Naekwan and Naemyoungbu-Goongkwan. The National one had been established by ruling class of The Joseon Dynasty who had tried to keep the Confucian standard and perfect social status system. And it is supposed that the National Mourning Dress System had not been a great change because the ruling class' will had not been changed.
Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.
Purpose: Pediatric palliative care is a rapidly developing multidisciplinary approach that supports children with life-limiting conditions and their families. However, there is limited evidence on how to effectively support bereaved parents and siblings. The purpose of this study is to explore the therapeutic impact of art therapy for bereaved families, in accordance with John Bowlby's four-stage theory of mourning. Methods: This single-case study employed the consensual qualitative research method. Art therapy records of bereaved families were reviewed individually, and records from one case were selected. Verbal statements made during the art therapy sessions and photocopies of the artworks were analyzed to understand the mourning process of the family. Results: A total of 113 statements and 12 artworks from 19 art therapy sessions were analyzed. As the art therapy progressed, each family member exhibited a pattern of engaging in more positive and healthy conversations in daily life, demonstrating the final stage of mourning: reorganization and recovery. The family dynamics also revealed that they reconstructed their inner world and redefined the meaning of loss, which is the final stage of mourning. The art therapy provided a safe environment for the family, allowing them to fulfill their wishes and regain the strength needed for recovery. Conclusion: This study suggests that art therapy supports bereaved families in alleviating their psychological difficulties, engaging in a healthy mourning process, and functioning as members of society. Further research is needed to better understand the effect of art therapy as a bereavement support tool in pediatric palliative care.
This paper explores the work of mourning of 9/11 in the United States, focusing on the project of building the National September 11 Memorial managed by the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation(LMDC) and the War on Terror declared by the George W. Bush administration in the wake of 9/11. This paper first looks at the project of building the Natioanl September 11 Memorial and considers what was at stake in achieving this project. It also examines the limitations of the project. This paper argues that, in spite of the efforts to mourn the victims in significant and meaningful ways, the work of mourning in the memorial project fails at least in two respects. First, the memorial project "began so soon" right after 9/11 that the victims' families were not given enough time to mourn their loved ones. Second, the project were permeated with American nationalism and patriotism, which made the 316 non-American victims of 9/11 invisible and forgotten. Then, it goes on to examine the War on Terror because the War on Terror epitomized the failure of mourning due to these causes. In his address to the nation delivered on the very day of 9/11, President George W. Bush stated that "America was targeted for the attack because we're the brightest beacon for freedom and opportunity in the world" and that the terrorists failed to threaten America into chaos. He also stated that America is in "the war against terrorism." These statements were a futile reassertion of the illusion of American invulnerability and a prohibition of mourning in favor of violent military responses to 9/11. American nationalism also underlies Bush's official naming of September 11 as "Patriot Day." The victims were sacrificed because they were at the site when terrorists attacked, which implies that their death had nothing to do with American patriotism. Naming September 11 as Patriot Day was an act of imbuing the absurdity of the victims' death with a false meaning and an act of forgetting the non-American victims. The failure of the work of mourning of 9/11 consisted in the inability to recognize human vulnerability and interdependence and the inability to mourn not only American victims but also non-American victims killed in 9/11 and the War on Terror. A meaningful and significant mourning could be possible when we realizes that all human beings are exposed to one another and their lives are interdependent on one another. September Eleventh Families for Peaceful Tomorrows well demonstrated this kind of mourning. When most Americans supported violent retaliations, Peaceful Tomorrows made pleas for nonviolent responses to 9/11. Turning their grief into action for peace, its members work "to create a safer and more peaceful world for everyone," not only for Americans. Their effort to mourn in meaningful and nonviolent ways delivers the message that a disaster like 9/11 should not happen anywhere.
The mourning and grief practice richly registered in Shakespeare's Hamlet is one of the abiding themes that critics have been fascinated with. This paper attempts to take a fresh look at the issue by building its arguments on Benjamin's insight that the modern art (mechanically) reproducing the exhibition value brings about the destruction of the ritual value and favors the conditions of melancholy. Instead of taking for granted that Hamlet's performance of grief is fundamentally different from those of other characters such as Gertrude, Ophelia, and Laertes, this paper argues that Hamlet's performance comes to be recognized masculine and different from others, only because he presents himself to be so through his theatrical performance as well as his princely power that the subjects (others in the story) ought to ascribe to. To prove this point, this paper closely analyzes Hamlet's rhetorics and the ways he constructs his mourning self, which is emblematic of the shift in art history that Benjamin has characterized with the terms of "ritual value" and "exhibition value." In conclusion, this paper suggests that Shakespeare's Hamlet marks the change of the historical horizon, a permanent removal from the past in which the ritual value had been once protected, pushing us to a new age to live with melancholy and the disconnection from things and their muted language.
Korean adoptee narratives have proliferated over the last ten years as adopted Koreans have begun to represent their own experiences of violent dislocation, displacement and loss in various forms of literary and artistic works, including poems, autobiographical works, novels, documentaries and films. These narratives by Korean adoptees have intervened in the current diaspora discourse to question further the traditional categories of race, ethnicity, culture and nation by representing the unique experiences of the forced and involuntary migration of adopted Koreans. For a long time, the adoption discourse has been mostly constructed from the perspectives of adoptive parents. Therefore the voice of adoptees as well as that of the birth mothers have not been properly heard or represented in adoption discourse. According to Hosu Kim, the U. S. adoption discourse, feeling pressured to deal with the stigma of the commodification of children, changed from viewing the adoptees as children who had been rescued from poverty and abandonment to considering them as a gift from the birth mothers. With the emergence of the gift rhetoric in transnational adoption, the birth mothers erased from adoption discourse have begun to be acknowledged as one of the central characters in the adoption triad. If Korean adoptees are the "the ghostly children of Korean history," the birth mothers are their "ghostly doubles" who "bear the mark of a repressed national trauma." Somebody's Daughter represents the female experiences of becoming an adopted child and of being a birth mother. In particular, the novel makes a birth mother, the forgotten presence in adoptee narratives, into a central figure in the triangular relationship created by international adoption. The novel historicizes the experiences of a Korean adoptee growing up in America as well as those of a mother who had suffered silently from feelings of unbearable loss, guilt, grief and from unforgettable memories. In addition, narrating the birth mother's story is a way to give humanity back to these forgotten women in Korean adoption history. Revisiting the site of loss both for a mother and a daughter through the novel is an act of collective mourning. The narratives about and by Korean adoptees force Korean intellectuals to reflect seriously upon Korean society and its underlying ideology which prevents a woman from mothering her own baby, and to take an ethical and political stand on this current social and political issue.
Since Plath killed herself in 1963, the theme of death has become one of the central motifs and allusions in her work. The biographical emphasis continues to blur the boundary between the artistic world and the material world. While approaching Plath's work from the perspective of personal experience, the objective of this paper is not to suggest that we encounter Plath's personal voice and emotions directly in her work. Rather, I emphasize how Plath's work of mourning is substantiated in the act of writing. Plath protects herself from the unnamable or the existential void by writing poems. She shows the way in which art or writing enables the subject to confront traumatic memory. While the death drive propels Plath towards destruction, artistic formation serves to alleviate her psychic crisis. What I shall suggest in the paper is how works of art lead the melancholic subject to challenge traumatic events. Plath herself suggests the therapeutic power of language. Plath's hostility toward women as well as men situates her work nearer to the Kristevan psychoanalytic theory which examines depressive anxieties intrinsically linked to the loss of maternal objects. Kristeva's particular focus on the concept of "death-bearing mother" or the unnamable offers a fruitful reading of the representation of infantile fantasies, sexuality, anger, and ambivalence toward lost loved object which clearly dominates most of Plath's poems. Kristeva elaborates mourning and melancholia through the framework of signification and it is of especial relevance in deciphering the recurring death drive and melancholic rage in Plath's work. Melancholic subjects in Plath's work are characterized by an amorphous state, occupying a borderline state regulated by the death drive.
조선은 의례를 국가통치수단으로 적극 활용한 국가였으며, 이는 "세종실록" "오례" 와 "국조오례의"로 대표된다. 그런데, "세종실록" "오례" 와 "국조오례의"에서 국왕 상장례 절차는 모두 수록하고 있는 반면 세자의 상장례에 대해서는 언급하지 않고 있다. 때문에, 조선의 세자 상장례는 조선 최초의 세자 상장례인 의경세자 상장례를 참고하여 진행되었다. 의경세자 상장례의 기본 절차는 국왕 상장례를 따르고 있었으나, 같은 국상이라 하더라도 세자는 왕위계승자의 신분이었기 때문에 국왕과 차별을 두어야 했다. 따라서 세자 상장례는 국왕 상장례에서 한 등급 낮추어 진행되었다. 의경세자의 상장례는 비록 국상 차원에서 이루어졌지만 그 절차 속에 일반 종친 혹은 대부 상장례의 요소들이 확인된다. 이것은 세자의 지위가 사망을 통해 변하고 있음을 시사하는 것으로 국왕과 세자의 차별을 부각시켜왔던 세조대의 고민이 반영된 것으로 보인다.
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