• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.217-228
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• 2001

This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.