• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.