• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.