• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1054-1065
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• 2006

This study aims to provide basic data conducive to developing popular and international products by analyzing the mechanism, factors and design of ethnic sports fashion incorporating ethnicity and sports sense that may satisfy the physical and psychological needs of modern humans who tend to seek 'well- being'. The methodology includes literature reviews and positivist study, and visual materials include domestic and foreign fashion magazines, newspapers, fashion journals, ad photos, collection photos, and internet that cover colors, materials, detailed sports fashion design that are considered to have an ethnic image. Its scope is limited to the period from 2000 through 2005 S/S. The results of study are as follows: First, sports fashions through incorporation of sports emotion and fashion, mixes and matches existing formal wear, casual wear, or leisure wear with sportswear, or introduces and utilizes materials, details, accessories, or image from sportswear. Second, 1) from the changes by year in sports fashion, ethnic images were strongly expressed by the influence of naturalism in the early 1990s, and functional sports fashion has been fused with ethnic image with functionalism becoming stronger and wellbeing trend expanding from the mid 1990s through 2000s. 2) The cause of ethnic image in sports fashion included hybrid, multi-culturalism, and naturalism. Third, the ethnic images revealed in the sports fashion designs of Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Y3 are simple and unique based on functionality and activism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.101-109
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• 2011

The present research aims to suggest the design of a new direction that copes with the changing environment. For example, the design for outdoor wear can be made through various methods that allows it to be worn for anytime and anywhere. Also, the research aimed to seek a development direction of outdoor wear design with environment-friendly expanded function that handles unpredictable environmental changes. The analysis of this research is as follows. First, it can be said that the trend of the outdoor wear design according to climate and environment changes is a design that seeks an efficient and rational role in functional aspects such as complex multi-functionality and minimum decorations as well as enhancing economic efficiency. Second, the outdoor wear design provides the optimal climate for the human body even in a continuously changing artificial environment. Its easy and comfortable function also helps to keep defense from possible risk elements. Lastly, this research seeks interactions among design, the body and environment. It also tries shape change using buttons and zippers, etc. according to expansion of a structural form of clothes as multi-functionality and versatility tools, and seeks a design form that can be reconstructed. The research that geared toward environmental changes should be further progressed in order to produce apparel that have efficient adaptability of any climate situations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.200-212
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• 2009

Since the late of 20C, contemporary fashion have becoming enlargement between role and function of fashion through the combination and the deconstruction among various different spheres. Because multi-functional and trans-formal fashion transforms and extends original space and role toward any other fields through the morphologic and structural combination, this has been freed form the representational function pursuing more simple morphologic imitation, and becomes to change the space that is able to 'becoming' of Jill Deleuze. This paper intends to make a comparative study between the representation phenomenon about simple morphologic imitation of existing fashion design, and the becoming phenomenon of fashion focused on the change toward any other different object. This studies' conclusion as follows. 1) First representation imitates a lot of nature forms that are able to be restored any fixed form and picture. 2) Second representation is the representation of representation that re-imitates imitated object and art work. 3) Ontalogical becoming is classified with depaysement, self-presentation of fashion, morphing, and becoming the nature as a element.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1045-1050
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• 2008

Developing of high technology, productivity of the fiber product has being rapidly increased and also various kinds of advanced treatment process lead consumer's needs to more high functional, clean and healthy goods. Moreover, increasing in the concern of eco-friendly material and processing, it has been getting popular that the dyeing method like as using natural dyes is more eco-friendly and natural-friendly treatment process. The method, used in this study, adhesion by binding with micro-capsulized natural material to fabric has low change in quality by external influence and high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when it dressed. Also it has wide application from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is development of multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Scutellaria baicalensis on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dye ability was arranged mostly low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip-dyeing PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness was arranged some different grade by each condition but mostly high achievement and the micro-capsulized PET was more improved than regular dip-dyed PET.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

This study classified the new fabrics of apparel Which was published in the domestic magazines newspapers since late nineteen-nineties and analyzed the characteristics of each new fabrics. We propose the recent trend of the development of new fabrics and therefore, predict the new fabric trend of the future. The new fabrics of apparel were classified as, 1. Sanitation and health promoting new fabric. 2. Aesthetic promoting new ones. 3. High functional new ones. 4. Natural fabric oriented new ones. 5. Pro-environmental new ones. The developmental trend of future new fabrics were predicted as followings 1. The pursuit of development of Pro-environmental textile materials 2. The pursuit of development of health enhancing textile materials 3. The pursuit of development of easy-controlling textile materials 4. The pursuit of development of long lasting-comfortable textile materials 5. The pursuit of development of high-aesthetic textile materials 6. The pursuit of development of textile materials Which have the advantages of the natural fabrics Conclusively, the new fabrics of apparel will be developed as the one which has above complicated multi-function and chaotic ability to fitting to environmental change.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1010-1017
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• 2013

Current global textiles and fashion industries have gradually shifted focus to high value-added, high sensibility, and multi-functional products based on new human-friendliness and sustainable growth technologies. Textile design CAD systems have been developed in conjunction with computer hardware and software sector advances. This study compares the patterns or images of actual woven fabrics and virtual fabrics prepared with a textile design CAD system. In this study, several weave structures (such as fancy yarn weave and patterns) were prepared with a shuttle loom. The woven textile images were taken using a CCD camera. The same weave structure data and yarn data were fed into a textile design CAD system in order to simulate fabric images as similarly as possible. Similarity Index analysis methods allowed for an analysis of the index between the actual fabric specimen and the simulated image of the corresponding fabric. The results showed that repeated small pattern weaves provide superior similarity index values than those of a fancy yarn weave that indicate some irregularities due to fancy yarn attributes. A Complex Wavelet Structural Similarity(CW-SSIM) index resulted in a better index than other methods such as Multi-Scale(MS) SSIM, and Feature Similarity(FS) SSIM, across fabric specimen images. A correlation analysis of the similarity index based on an image analysis and a similarity evaluation by panel members was also implemented.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.420-430
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• 2007

Noting that there is an increasing trend of the so-called 'neo-single life style' among women these days, this research aims to make a product development for these neo-single women in this era of families of a single member by analyzing their concepts and characteristics. We payed a particular attention to the data from such sources as newspapers, magazines or the articles in the Internet. The essence of our research lies in the analysis of target market, in the suggestions in the brand planning and product development and in the designs of fashion and interior products for them. The result of this research is as follows. First, it turns out that these neo-single women enjoy a kind of multi-mixing code lifestyle rather than showing a preference for a particular brand. For this reason, we have decided to pursue a multi-concept brand fonn as a right direction for brand planning for them. Second, as for a philosophy behind the brands, we suggest a concept of 'small utopia' for neo-single women and express such as new aristocracy, happiness and pleasure. Third, we adopt 'YOU' as the name of the brand as it reflects their various life styles and characteristics. Fourth, as for the product development of F/W in 2007, we have decided on 'Minimal Natural' as it mixes up the concepts of the controlled beauty of sophistication and multi-functional elements and 'Modern Primitive' as it expresses the ethnic elements on modern images having craft factors and modern images. We have performed concrete tasks in creating images, coloring, making fabrics for each theme. Fifth, we have chosen and suggested other products that are suitable for these neo-single women who seek for multi-functional but simple kinds after surveying a wide range of products in magazines or in the Internet.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.600-615
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• 2009

$21^{st}$ century post digital society orients co-existence, fusion, and blurring boundary than conflict, differentiation, and boundary, and makes a try liberal combination of various different objects. Furthermore, radical development of science and digital equipments offer technical possibility that could combine various fields. Hence, many different departments demolish their boundary, and combine for development of multi-functional and complex shape's products. For job-nomads, fashion attempts to combine with architecture, furniture, daily necessities, and digital equipments spontaneously. This paper aims at consideration about the blurring phenomena expressed in complex fashion space of $21^{st}$ century throughout empirical fashion photographs analysis, which show combination among fashion and various different fields. Blurring boundary phenomena of complex fashion space are classified with 4 parts as follows as: 1) furniturizing, 2) wearable dwelling, 3) lumiduct, 4) becoming fashion. Each parts are examined 8 aesthetical characteristics such as movement and lightness, hyper-link and openness, immateriality and inter-activeness, and diversity and ambiguity. $21^{st}$ century fashion has changed more simple and light, and creates new form throughout combination with many other fields, and enlarges its function and sphere. I think this paper would help certificating practical use of fashion space as multiple and complex space, and makes contribution to forecast about fashion development of the future and offer inspiration about creative and innovative fashion design.