• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.588-594
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• 2016

The outer clothing of shaman that are put on while performing current gutgeori is lacking in form and composition, diversified with kinds. Above all, name of shaman clothing is not unified, accordingly, there's a big difference from traditional Gutgeori, which was definitely divided in the role of outer clothing of shaman in respect of function and role of Gutgeori. Here, this research attended a site that performed Gutgeori based on the advanced literature research data research and analyzed the state and name of outer clothing by conducting a survey and interview investigation. Survey was conducted during 2 years from 2014 to 2015 classifying Gutgeori of Seoul, Gyeongsang, Honam, Jeju, Chungcheon. Research results are as follows. First, lots of outer clothes were put on along with shamanism type in Seoul, accordingly, names were diversified. Name of outer clothing was not unified by focusing on level of divinity or behavior of Gutgeori, with no consistency being mixed. Second, name was not consistent even the outer clothing of the same type shaman along with the region, sometimes put on in different meaning, accordingly, called in different name. Combination of such name of shaman is determined to be a big reason of lack of accurate information on shaman clothing and genealogy of name of shaman clothing in shamans, as the initial research on shamanism was conducted by folklorists in advance.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.219-238
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• 1998

For the purpose of this Study, the situation of Korean costume properties in the collection of overseas museums was investigated through correspondence, interviews with their curators and persons in charge and survey. As results were made about the situation of museum science (conservation) and practical utilization of costume properties. So, the study result were drawn as follows : Krean costume properties unexplaind of 'Korean cultural Properties' could be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York(135 pieces), the Brooklyn Museum of New York(20 pieces), the Newark Museum of New Jersey(15 pieces), and the Victoria Albert Museum of London(100 pieces). Korean costume properties in the collection of over-seas museums mostly fall under the rang of period between the 19th century and the early 20th century and are classified into everyday clothing, wedding costume and armors for the most part. In 1900s, museum in several countries began to collected Korean cultural properties through foreign missionaries or diplomats as well as merchants or travellers in who bought Korean objects. Recently, scholars, traditional Korean costume designerss and diplomatic and consular offices in overseas have donated our Korean costume to many foreign museums. Korean costume properties were largely on display in the dependent display of folklore museums or in a part of exhibition gallery for Asian culture and there were the separate exhibition rooms in museums in the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Austria, Japan and the United States America. But the size and level of display room for Korean cultural properties is one third as large as that for chinese or Japanese cultual properties. It was found in this study that the traditional Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums was largely recorded only as general items rather than given their proper names. The typical example of misnaming included bridal's Kimono for Wonsam(원삼) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yeonroksaek-bumunsajeokori for Dangeui(당의) and Jissan-gryongwonmunsadurumagi for Kongdali(동달이) in the Okura collection of the Tokyo National Museum, and so on. And the Victoria Albert Museum modified the way of wearing Daenim(대님) and the National Museum of Ethnology in Osaka seemed to misplace the ornament of Keanggi(댕기) on Mubok(무복) and Josunjuk(조선족: Chinese-Korean) Museum also misplace hansam(한삼). On the one hand, the Newark museum of New Jersey mixed Chinese armor with the Korean one and the Photohraph of King Kojong(고종) with Chinese one. It is corrected to publish and disseminate the book concering Korean costume in order to inform foreign museums of thed proper names and wearing method of our traditional costumed. The repair of costume before cleaning in the process of conservation treatment can prevent damage likely to occur as the properties of fiber itself are weakened in liquid. It is recommended that western 8-figure stitch and tacking stitch is added to Korean traditional stitching method. Museums in the U.S.A and the U.K are concerned about the aftermath of cleaning it-self, specially conservation treatment may exert on remains and predominantly use the vacuuming method to remove dust or bits of straw before the exhibition beings. But in case of Korea, the dry cleaning and wet cleaning method are used according to the nature and state of a sample costume. This comprehensive cleaning method is gradually developing scientifically but it is expected that those concerned will make a chemical analysis of the solvent to be used and also the more precise test of costume properties will be conducted before cleaning them. A partial study was made here because the scope of study was too broad and vast. It is expected that more studies will be conducted concerning our costume culture under the long-term plan and active support at the government level.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제42호
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• pp.233-256
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• 2021

이 글은 황해도굿춤의 특성과 의미를 살핀 글이다. 먼저 황해도굿춤의 특성을 다음과 같이 정리하였다. 황해도굿춤의 모든 굿거리 등장하는 일반적인 춤은 '거상춤 - 도무 - 회전무'로 순차적으로 이어진다. 반주 장단은 거상장단, 춤장단, 연풍장단이다. 황해도굿춤 중 신령의 특성을 나타내는 무구를 손에 들고 추는 춤은 춤장단에 맞춘 도무와 연풍장단에 맞춘 회전무와 춤사위가 동일하다. 무구 이름이나 무복 이름, 신령 이름을 사용해 굿춤 명칭으로 사용할 수 있지만 춤사위의 독자성은 없다. 황해도굿춤 중 벅구춤과 삼현춤은 독자적인 장단인 벅구장단, 삼현장단을 사용하고 있어 춤사위의 독자성이 인정된다. 황해도굿춤은 장단과 긴밀한 관련성을 가진다. 황해도굿의 연행에서 장구재비와 만신의 조화는 절대적이다. 장구 연주가 만신의 굿 연행을 받쳐주지 않으면 굿의 연행이 순조롭지 않아 혼란이 발생하고, 만신의 굿 연행이 장구 연주를 따라가지 못하면 굿은 단순해진다. 황해도굿춤의 성패를 결정하는 가장 핵심적인 요소가 장구이다. 굿을 맡을 때 장구재비와 일정이 맞지 않으면 굿날을 다시 잡을 정도로 만신은 장구재비와의 호흡을 중요하게 여긴다. 그리고 황해도굿춤은 결례에 따라 차이가 있다. 하지만 결례에 따른 장단과 춤의 차이는 무형문화재로 인해 사라지게 된다. 결국 무형문화재 지정이 모든 황해도굿춤의 특성을 사라지게 한 것이다. 결례 구분이 모호해지고, 자신이 학습한 굿의 계보에 대해서도 관심을 갖지 않는다. 결례에 따른 춤의 구분이 중요한 것이 아니라 무형문화재 제도에 따른 춤의 구분이 중요해졌다.