• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.588-594
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• 2016

The outer clothing of shaman that are put on while performing current gutgeori is lacking in form and composition, diversified with kinds. Above all, name of shaman clothing is not unified, accordingly, there's a big difference from traditional Gutgeori, which was definitely divided in the role of outer clothing of shaman in respect of function and role of Gutgeori. Here, this research attended a site that performed Gutgeori based on the advanced literature research data research and analyzed the state and name of outer clothing by conducting a survey and interview investigation. Survey was conducted during 2 years from 2014 to 2015 classifying Gutgeori of Seoul, Gyeongsang, Honam, Jeju, Chungcheon. Research results are as follows. First, lots of outer clothes were put on along with shamanism type in Seoul, accordingly, names were diversified. Name of outer clothing was not unified by focusing on level of divinity or behavior of Gutgeori, with no consistency being mixed. Second, name was not consistent even the outer clothing of the same type shaman along with the region, sometimes put on in different meaning, accordingly, called in different name. Combination of such name of shaman is determined to be a big reason of lack of accurate information on shaman clothing and genealogy of name of shaman clothing in shamans, as the initial research on shamanism was conducted by folklorists in advance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.219-238
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• 1998

For the purpose of this Study, the situation of Korean costume properties in the collection of overseas museums was investigated through correspondence, interviews with their curators and persons in charge and survey. As results were made about the situation of museum science (conservation) and practical utilization of costume properties. So, the study result were drawn as follows : Krean costume properties unexplaind of 'Korean cultural Properties' could be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York(135 pieces), the Brooklyn Museum of New York(20 pieces), the Newark Museum of New Jersey(15 pieces), and the Victoria Albert Museum of London(100 pieces). Korean costume properties in the collection of over-seas museums mostly fall under the rang of period between the 19th century and the early 20th century and are classified into everyday clothing, wedding costume and armors for the most part. In 1900s, museum in several countries began to collected Korean cultural properties through foreign missionaries or diplomats as well as merchants or travellers in who bought Korean objects. Recently, scholars, traditional Korean costume designerss and diplomatic and consular offices in overseas have donated our Korean costume to many foreign museums. Korean costume properties were largely on display in the dependent display of folklore museums or in a part of exhibition gallery for Asian culture and there were the separate exhibition rooms in museums in the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Austria, Japan and the United States America. But the size and level of display room for Korean cultural properties is one third as large as that for chinese or Japanese cultual properties. It was found in this study that the traditional Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums was largely recorded only as general items rather than given their proper names. The typical example of misnaming included bridal's Kimono for Wonsam(원삼) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yeonroksaek-bumunsajeokori for Dangeui(당의) and Jissan-gryongwonmunsadurumagi for Kongdali(동달이) in the Okura collection of the Tokyo National Museum, and so on. And the Victoria Albert Museum modified the way of wearing Daenim(대님) and the National Museum of Ethnology in Osaka seemed to misplace the ornament of Keanggi(댕기) on Mubok(무복) and Josunjuk(조선족: Chinese-Korean) Museum also misplace hansam(한삼). On the one hand, the Newark museum of New Jersey mixed Chinese armor with the Korean one and the Photohraph of King Kojong(고종) with Chinese one. It is corrected to publish and disseminate the book concering Korean costume in order to inform foreign museums of thed proper names and wearing method of our traditional costumed. The repair of costume before cleaning in the process of conservation treatment can prevent damage likely to occur as the properties of fiber itself are weakened in liquid. It is recommended that western 8-figure stitch and tacking stitch is added to Korean traditional stitching method. Museums in the U.S.A and the U.K are concerned about the aftermath of cleaning it-self, specially conservation treatment may exert on remains and predominantly use the vacuuming method to remove dust or bits of straw before the exhibition beings. But in case of Korea, the dry cleaning and wet cleaning method are used according to the nature and state of a sample costume. This comprehensive cleaning method is gradually developing scientifically but it is expected that those concerned will make a chemical analysis of the solvent to be used and also the more precise test of costume properties will be conducted before cleaning them. A partial study was made here because the scope of study was too broad and vast. It is expected that more studies will be conducted concerning our costume culture under the long-term plan and active support at the government level.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.42
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• pp.233-256
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• 2021

The purpose of this article is to understand the characteristics and meanings of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum, or shamanic ritual dance. First, the characteristics of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum are summarized as follows. The regular dances that appear in all pieces of Gutgeori or the tune of Gut of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum feature Geosangchum, followed by domu and heojeonmu in the sequential order. The accompaniment rhythms are Geosang rhythm, Chum rhythm, and Yeonpung rhythm. The dance featuring mugu, or shaman implements held on shaman's hand as part of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum, which symbolizes the characteristics of deities, is the same as domu aligned with the dance rhythm and the whirling dance aligned with the Yeonpung rhythm. The name of mugu, mubok (shaman clothing) and/or deities may be used as the name of Gutchum but there is no originality of Gutchum. The Beokgu Chum and Samhyeon Chum as part of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum use Beockgu Jangdan and Samhyeon Jangdan, which deserves to have their originality acknowledged. Hwanghae-do Gutchum is closely related to the rhythm. The harmony of janggu player and a female shaman is essential in practicing the Hwanghae-do Gut. If a janggu player fails to perform to properly support the gut practice of a female shaman, the shaman is not able to proceed with a smooth practice and causes confusion. On the other hand, if the gut performance of a female shaman fails to catch up with the performance of janggu, the gut becomes plain and simple at best. Janggu is the single most important element that determines the success or failure of the Hwanghae-do Gutchum. A female shaman takes the harmony and collaboration with a janggu player so seriously that she is willing to reschedule the practice of gut if its schedule does not match that of the janggu player. The Hwanghae-do Gutchum is largely dependent on gyeolrye. However, the difference between the chum and the rhythm caused by gyeolrye has disappeared due to the intangible cultural assets. That is, designating an intangible cultural asset has resulted in eliminating all distinctive characteristics of Hwanghae-do Gutchum. With the distinction of gyeolrye becoming vague, they have lost interest in the genealogy of gut they have learned. It is no longer gyeolrye but the intangible cultural property system that serves as an important factor to distinguish chums.