• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 2005

Information sources about Mongolian pigtail of 13-14C are relatively rich. But it was difficult to estimate the shape of the pigtail in detail with the descriptions in historical writing or travel books only, and paintings were neither enough to observe the beautiful shape of the pigtail closely on the whole because the portrayed characters were always wearing their hats. However, the authors could trace the detailed shape of the pigtail of 13-14C through close investigation into Mongolian stone statue of the period. In conclusion, the authors performed a comparative study by historically comparing the historical writings, archeological materials, ethnological materials and figurative arts featuring medieval Mongolian pigtail. And the authors paid careful attention to the meaning of those materials to the hairdo history. Historically nothern minority races have become assimilated with surrounding races in language, culture and customs through long economical and cultural exchange, and today their national traits gradually fade away by globalization. But each minority race still stands independently and maintain its own traditional culture. only recently began the study by Korean researchers on Mongolian pigtail, and there is still much to be discussed in ethnological issues such as racial pedigree.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.243-258
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• 1999

This is a study of CHOK-DU-RI(族頭里) a black crown-like headpiece worn by woman on formal occasion in Chosun Dynasty and has succeeded until now. CHOK-DU-RI was originated by BOKTAK worn by Mongolian noblewomen and inflowed to the last period of Koryo dynasty under occupation of Yuan. The documentary records of O-JU-YON-MUN-CHSNG-JON-SAN-KO( by Lee Kyu-kung CHUNG-JANG-KWAN-JON-SUH by Lee Tock-mu and KO-SA-TONG by choe Nam-sun verify CHOK-DU-RI is a custom of mongolian fusion that was affected by KO-KO of Yuan and was formed. Ko-Ko is the same as BOKTAK. It is assumed KO-KO is a borrowed name as its transcription varies. The name was given according to its appearance which is certified by the record CHANGCHUN-CHIN-IN-SEO-BANG-YU-RAM-KI. It says that it can be simply named KO-KO as its edge is alike ad goose or a duck. In addition KO-Ko was called CHOGTAI in case of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR. CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR, CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which provd CHOK-DU-RI was originated in Mongol. The shape of BOKTAK is very high and wided toward the top with the top with the angle getting more pointed and a feather stuck on the side. But its height got lower and its size smaller as it did gradually Koreanized to a CHOK-DU-RI. The use of CHOK-DU-RI has been settled since the last period of Chosun Dynasty. It came to stay as a popular custom when King Young-jo and Jong-jo wanting to do away with the corrupt practice of KA-CHE encouraged women at that time to do their hairs with CHOK-DU-RI instead of KA-CHE. It is as follows the classification of CHOK-DU-RI. First classified by a use group is divided into ceremonial use such as the seven treasures CHOK-DU-RI and jeweled CHOK-DU-RI. Hereby it is assumed that CHOK-DU-RI was used regardless of fortune. Secondly it varies by its type of frame. There are SOM CHOK-DU-RI OHT CHOK-DU-RI and O-YOM CHOK-DU-RI a kind of SOM CHOK-DU-Ri formed a base of O-YOM-MO-RI. The third group by jeweling has WHE-BONG CHOK-DU-RI and TA-BONG-CHOK-DU-RI JEwele CHOk-DU-RI can be still seen being commercially lent and worn by the brides at nuptical ceremonies performed in tradition of fashion and when worn bya bride as she gives her parents to her parents-in-law.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.15-42
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• 1991

A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.

• Journal of The Korean Society of Grassland and Forage Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.347-358
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• 2004

In Mongolia which consists of nomadic populations, horse has been loved by nomads and considered most important transportation means. Horses have been used when they were making long journey looking for new plain ground for grazing. Therefore, horse is closely connected with Mongolian nomadic culture. In Korea, too, horses had been considered one of most important means for transportation and military. The symbolism of horse that is represented in both Mongolia and Korea is Heavenly Horse which communicates with the God and it was sanctified as a Sacrificing Horse which was sent to God for sacrifice, and it was even worshiped as Divine Horse, the diety. As is the case of two of Mongolian customs associated with Mongolian language are 'the ceremony of horse's giving birth her young' and 'the ceremony of letting the mare go where it was before', all the cases are related with cattle's milk. The ceremony of 'horse's giving birth her young' is the ceremony where people hope that they would see the young can grow well which were born in early summer thus increasing the numbers of horse. To go with this, they perform a ceremony of Chachal in which they sprinkle the best quality white milk which is the symbol of good luck and hope they would produce plentiful of dairy products. The ceremony of 'letting the mare go where it was before' is also the ceremony where people hope to have many new born young horses thus produce more dairy products and Airag for the next year as milking is no more available for that you. Since the unified Silla Era, Koreans have performed a sacrifice rituals to horse in auspicious day. It's purpose is to see their horses get no disease and bear as many youngs as possible. The Back Ins Je, one of well blown festivals in Jeju Island, was originated from people's wish to prosper in stock farming. It can be said that the custom of Korea and Mongolia related with horse's giving birth was originated from the wishes to god for fertility and fecundity. On top of that, while Mongolians sprinkled horse's milk both on the ground and to the air hoping they would have increased houses and, thus, secure many dairy products, Koreans wish that they would see the increased number of horses and their healthy conditions through heavenly rituals.

• Archives of design research
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.117-142
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• 1997

This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various patterned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions appeared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was carried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of prefume case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investigate the practical and decorative side of perfume case with the general examines of perfume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfume through smoke which is for ceremony of religion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through perfume-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with changing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practical side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substitute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pattern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased the decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influened in devlopment of the perfume case design with matching the modern fashion.