• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2004

The various colors are used in our whole life as much as the modern society is called "the age of colors". The colors in the hair style express the individual taste, personality and the psychological condition, and play an important role as a visual language. The western people, who has thought that the blonde hair is a symbol of beautiful woman from the ancient times, has tried to get the blonde hair continuously even though they had not the technique of hair dyeing. On the other hand, the korean people whose hair color is usually dark brown or black, enjoy a various hair color due to the development of dyeing and decoloration technique. In this study, I deal with the yellow hair style, the most prevalent color which is an important means of communication in the our times.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.153-163
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• 1981

Since Korea opened the door to the Western World, traditional costume has changed. The factors of change are as follows: 1) Cultural diffusion by the cultural contact is the foundamental factor of the costume change. 2) The government made edicts of clothing reform. The formal dresses of government official were simplified several times, the edict was issued for men to cut off their hair, and military uniform and government officials' dresses were west-ernized. 3) The diffusion of modernized education by the missionary school accerlerated clothing change. Students were ahead of the abolition of Suege-Chima (which is a sort of veil used to conceal woman's face). 4) The change in the activity of women in society made the women's dresses more convenient for action. 5) The open class system and social agitation speeded up the rate of change. During the Yi Dynasty class distinction was rigid, but the government made the laws which abolished the class distiction.

• 수완나부미
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.49-88
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• 2020

Two utilitarian and symbolic objects associated with womanhood in Cambodian culture are the stove and the pot. The pot is a symbol of both the womb and female sexuality; the stove is a symbol of gendered feminine labor. This article argues that the sexist representations of the Khmer female body by modern Cambodian male artists demonstrate an inherited legacy of Orientalist stereotypes. These images were formed : under French colonialism and often depict Khmer women as erotic/exotic native Others. Starting in the 1970s, however, if not earlier, Cambodian women began to question the gendering of social roles that confined them to domestic space and labor. This form of social questioning was especially present in pop songs. In recent years, contemporary Cambodian woman artists such as Neak Sophal and Tith Kanitha have made use of rice pots and stoves in their art as freighted symbols of femininity. Neak created an installation of rice pots from different households in their village, while Tith rebelled against this gendered role by destroying cooking stoves as an act of defiance against patriarchy in her performance art.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권45호
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

여성의 인권과 권리가 상승된 현대사회는 남녀평등이라는 원칙 아래 사회의 모든 분야에서 여성과 남성을 차별하지 않고 동등하게 대우할 것을 요구하고 있다. 현대사회에서 남녀평등을 말하기까지에는 그 이면에 페미니즘이 있다. 페미니즘은 여성과 남성의 권리와 기회를 평등하게 만들기 위해서 진행되었으나 역사적으로 사회활동과 정치참여를 남성이 주도 해왔기 때문에 여성권리의 주장과 실현을 목표로 발생하였다. 본 논문에서는 이러한 페미니즘을 영상미디어 콘텐츠인 애니메이션을 통해 연구해보고자 한다. 주지하다시피 미디어는 각 시대의 이데올로기가 반영됨으로써 그 시대를 비추는 거울과도 같다. 그런 의미에서 영상 미디어의 대표적인 장르인 애니메이션에서 나타나는 페미니즘의 경향을 연구하는 것은 시대의 경향을 이해하는 과정에 있어 매우 유의미하다고 할 수 있다. 본 연구는 페미니즘적 경향이 확연히 드러나는 두 편의 애니메이션 "소녀혁명 우테나"와 "겨울왕국"을 분석하였다. 두 애니메이션에는 마녀로써 객체화 된 여성이 주체적인 여성을 만나 자기주도적인 선택과 행동을 하는 캐릭터의 변화를 담고 있다. 이를 통해 현대사회에서 보여지는 포스트페미니즘의 주체적이며 자아 성취적인 경향을 확인할 수 있었고, 이를 기반으로 앞으로 나타날 페미니즘의 변화상 역시 예측 가능하였다. 본 논문의 한계로는 페미니즘에 관련된 애니메이션의 자료를 찾기 쉽지 않았다. 한국에서도 이와 관련된 학술대회가 개최되었고 인터넷 상에서 많은 해석이 있었지만 본 연구에 부합되는 자료가 적어 아쉬움이 남았다. 이는 다음번 연구를 통해 더 심화시키고자 한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.679-694
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to develop a logo type for a new fashion brand and to present design cases that apply the relevant logo type to suggest an advisable direction for logo design. This study analyzed the logo designs of domestic and foreign fashion brands and used the data to develop a logo type for a brand name that reflects the concept of the newly launched brand, in addition to presenting the relevant design process and method. Besides a literature review, this study conducted case analyses of domestic and foreign fashion brand logos. This is an empirical study in which researchers developed a logo type and presented designs that applied it. The research results are as follows. The brand name of the new L Fashion brand in Korea is 'LEAY'. This study developed a logo using the initials L, E, A, and Y, each standing for life, love, and liberty; esteem, eternity; act, art; and youth. The Caslon type font, which evokes a casual yet modern sentiment, was used for the design. Cleats and zippers, which are decorative subsidiary materials used in labels, tags, shopping bags, clothing, and props, were applied in the design of the developed logo type. All design cases was produced into articles. The case of fashion brand logo design and development presented in this study implies that the development of fashion brand logos and the logo-applied product design must be tied to the launching and planning process; thus, logo development must be based on the brand concept in relation to the market entry strategy that satisfies both producers and customers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.163-174
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to review the features of eroticism expressed in men's fashion, to explain psychological and social contexts which engender eroticism and to analyze in what way eroticism is portrayed in men s fashion in this context. Eroticism as the metonymy of forbidden sexual desire, has been embodied mostly in visual forms such as picture and photo. From a psychoanalytic view, the context in which eroticism is formed can be explained by primary narcissism and fetishism. Primary narcissism is the feeling of satisfaction with the self in which the subject who is admiring and the object of admiration are one and the same. Accordingly, in order to give rise to eroticism, both subject and object have to exist. Fetishism, the metonymy of castrated penis, is also one of the factors to produce eroticism. Metaphorically seen as a woman who has a penis, a man who dresses in the same manner as a woman dresses can be a source of eroticism to gays. From a sociological view, the context in which eroticism is fostered depends on the dynamic relations among social powers. In these relations, who is a subject or who is an object has been continuously changing. In the Post-modern culture appearing in the late 20th century, power begins to take various forms, and gays and women who had never been subjects begin to make man an object of eroticism. The other point is that social morality, ignoring desire itself, objectifies sexual desire and seeks to remove It by exchanging it for objectified symbols. The design elements provoking eroticism in men s fashion are exposure and decoration. In particular, models in exposure and decorative fashion have been objectified through the methods of fragmentation rather than showing the whole figure or removing a person s individuality or will,.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.12-19
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• 2006

As an exhibition designer, clothing and furniture designer, and woman architect in Germany during the 1920s and'1930s Lilly Reich was an important pioneer of modern design and one of the most respected practitioners. In spite of that she has been until recently known primarily for the work she produced in association with the architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, because his fame has overshadowed her own contribution. For the first time only after her own works have been presented by MoMA in 1996, her artistic world could begin to be illuminated. This study discusses not only her collaboration with Mies van der Rohe, but also her own work as an individual artist. The aim of this study is concentrated on two aspects, which have been unexplored in the history of architecture and interior design. One of them is related to her effort, the essential elements and principles of the exhibition design disciplinarily to stand and through this the methodological basis of exhibition design to found. Another aspect is the contribution to the functionalist architecture by keeping in harmony the standardization and the individualism. This study is purposed to re-actualize the interior-architectural ideas of Lilly Reich into the present context through the consideration on the collaborations with Mies van der Rohe and her own works and to illuminate her complementary efforts to the functionalist architecture.