• Title/Summary/Keyword: Modern Functionalism

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The Impact of Functionalism on Changes of Women's Sportswear - Focusing on the first half of the 20th century - (기능주의가 여성 스포츠웨어 변천에 미친 영향 - 20세기 전반기를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yu-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.43-59
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    • 2010
  • In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

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Study on the Characteristics of Western Rocker style In Early 20th Century (20세기 초기 서양 흔들의자의 양식적 특징)

  • Lim, Seung-Taek
    • Journal of agriculture & life science
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    • v.45 no.6
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    • pp.21-32
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    • 2011
  • This research is intended to study literatures relating to western rocking chairs style in early 20th century in order to provide basic data of designs for rockers of today in Korea and investigate characteristics of rocking chair from academic, formative and pragmatic perspectives. During the first half of 20th century, western rocking chairs (1925~1945) embodied actively the simple functionalism concept that furniture design must follow functionality considerations. Therefore, bare wood rocking chairs were without any surface decoration and tubular steel frame rocking chairs often included black leather upholstery in a bold attempt to express exposed structure. And the fact that tubular steel produced such lightweight furniture was crucial importance. Many Modernist designer created curvaceous lines of new pattern changes in their furniture. The structure of Modern rocking chair became all-important, for stylistic as well as functional reasons. Designers equated exposed structure of tubular steel and wooden frame with integrity and rationality and create an equalitarian style of design. Especially, designers in the early 20th century did use various brilliantly colored upholstery and wooden frame with simple forms of modern characteristics.

The Influence of Socialistic Ideology on Modern Architecture - Case Study of Bruno Taut - (사회주의 이념이 근대건축에 미친 영향에 관한 연구 - 브루노 타우트의 사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Doo-Soon;Jung, Jae-Won
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.7-19
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    • 2013
  • The formation of modern architecture during the Weimar Republic in Germany is seen through the works by Bruno Taut, one of the leading architects during that period. Through the extensive literature readings on Bruno Taut and critical analysis of Bruno Taut's ideologies, his works and the circumstances that he was in, the contention of this paper is that the root of modern architecture has less to do with functionalism and new technologies, but more to do with need to express new ideologies and expressions of their view of a new society. Although the socialistic idea did not account for sole reason for influencing their architecture, it did play a considerable part in deciding what architectural expressions are preferred. For this discourse this paper limits Bruno Taut's years from 1913 to 1932 prior to his exile from Germany; 1913 to 1923 being the years that constitute theoretical activities and 1923 to 1932 being the golden years for social housing when he participated on many public housing projects. It was during this period that his architecture put importance of practicality, and utilitarian; however the transition was not an abrupt departure from his expressionistic architecture but an inclusive act on his part.

Park Kilyong's Functionalist Theory of Architecture in the Mid-1930s and Critique of Gyeongseong (Seoul) Buildings (1930년대 중반 박길룡의 기능주의 건축론과 경성건축 비평)

  • Kim, Hyon-Sob
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 2023
  • This research aims to investigate Park Kilyong's architectural theory and critique of Gyeongseong (Seoul) buildings, expressed in his 'Overview of Modern Buildings in Gyeongseong' and 'Critique of Gyeongseong Buildings' (Samcheolli, Sept. and Oct. 1935); and 'Architectural Form of the 100% Function' and 'The Modern and Architecture (1)-(4)' (Dong-A Daily, 28 Jul. to 1 Aug. 1936). As a result, it is confirmed that Park had the functionalist theory of modern architecture, which suggests that Korean architects of the Japanese colonial period were accommodating the contemporary trend of world architecture. However, Park shows his fundamental limitations in the fact that the main content of his articles was a verbatim translation of two Japanese references (Kurata, 1927; Ishihara, 1929) without proper indications. Despite the limitations, his texts are still meaningful since he formed his own architectural theory on the basis of what he translated; and indeed his critique of Gyeongseong buildings, however simple, was based on the theory. This research makes a critical analysis of Park's functionalist theory from both the 1930s' and present points of view and compares his commentaries on Gyeongseong architecture with those by Ko Yu-seop (1932) and Hong Yunsick (1937), illustrating how Korea perceived architecture and modernism in 1930s.

Image of Perfect Gentlemen in Fashion (의상에 나타난 Perfect Gentlemen의 이미지 연구 - 19세기 영국을 중심으로 -)

  • 이의정;양숙희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.411-421
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    • 2000
  • Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

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A Study on Hans Scharoun's Architectural Characteristics of Berlin Philharmonic Concert Hall (베를린 필하모니 콘서트홀에 나타난 한스 샤룬의 건축적 특성 연구)

  • Chu, Beom;Kim, Hong-Gi
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.16 no.2 s.61
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    • pp.24-31
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    • 2007
  • Berlin Philharmonic Concert Hall is one of most prominent architecture of Hans Scharoun, which is known as the fine combination of the functionalism as an important factor in modern architecture and the hi-developed technology Moreover, the plan and spatial planning of the concert hall is famous for its evolutionary approach compared to other traditional concert halls. The objective of this paper is to examine forms and organic system of functions of this concert hall in order to re-evaluate it's historical meanings in our modern architecture history, The current study will also look into how the personal background of Hans Scharoun has influenced his design in various ways, especially the inside of lobby and auditorium of Berlin Philharmonic Concert Hall.

Application of Fractal Geometry to Architectural Design

  • Lee, Myung-Sik
    • Architectural research
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.175-183
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    • 2014
  • Contemporary architecture tends to deconstruct modern architecture based on rationalization just like reductionism and functionalism and secedes from it. It means change from mechanical to organic and ecological view of the world. According to these changes, consideration of a compositive relationship presented variety and complexity in architecture. Thus, the modern speculation based on rationalism cannot provide an alternative interpretation about complicated architectural phenomena. At this point in time, the purpose of this study is to investigate the possibilities of the fractal as an alternative tool of analysis and design in contemporary architecture. In this study, two major aspects are discussed. First, the fractal concepts just like 'fractal dimension', 'box-counting dimension' and 'fractal rhythm' can be applied to analysis in architecture. Second, the fractal formative principles just like 'scaling', 'superimposition trace', 'distortion' and 'repetition' can be applied to design in architecture. Fractal geometry similar to nature's patterned order can provide endless possibilities for analysis and design in architecture. Therefore further study of fractal geometry should be conducted synthetically from now on.

A Destructive Method in the Connection of the Algorithm and Design in the Digital media - Centered on the Rapid Prototyping Systems of Product Design - (디지털미디어 환경(環境)에서 디자인 특성(特性)에 관한 연구(硏究) - 실내제품(室內製品) 디자인을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim Seok-Hwa
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
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    • v.5
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    • pp.87-129
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this thesis is to propose a new concept of design of the 21st century, on the basis of the study on the general signification of the structures and the signs of industrial product design, by examining the difference between modern and post-modern design, which is expected to lead the users to different design practice and interpretation of it. The starting point of this study is the different styles and patterns of 'Gestalt' in the post-modern design of the late 20th century from modern design - the factor of determination in industrial product design. That is to say, unlike functional and rational styles of modern product design, the late 20th century is based upon the pluralism characterized by complexity, synthetic and decorativeness. So far, most of the previous studies on design seem to have excluded visual aspects and usability, focused only on effective communication of design phenomena. These partial studies on design, blinded by phenomenal aspects, have resulted in failure to discover a principle of fundamental system. However, design varies according to the times; and the transformation of design is reflected in Design Pragnanz to constitute a new text of design. Therefore, it can be argued that Design Pragnanz serves as an essential factor under influence of the significance of text. In this thesis, therefore, I delve into analysis of the 20th century product design, in the light of Gestalt theory and Design Pragnanz, which have been functioning as the principle of the past design. For this study, I attempted to discover the fundamental elements in modern and post-modern designs, and to examine the formal structure of product design, the users' aesthetic preference and its semantics, from the integrative viewpoint. Also, with reference to history and theory of design my emphasis is more on fundamental visual phenomena than on structural analysis or process of visualization in product design, in order to examine the formal properties of modern and post-modern designs. Firstly, In Chapter 1, 'Issues and Background of the Study', I investigated the Gestalt theory and Design Pragnanz, on the premise of formal distinction between modern and post-modern designs. These theories are founded upon the discussion on visual perception of Gestalt in Germany in 1910's, in pursuit of the principle of perception centered around visual perception of human beings. In Chapter 2, I dealt with functionalism of modern design, as an advance preparation for the further study on the product design of the late 20th century. First of all, in Chapter 2-1, I examined the tendency of modern design focused on functionalism, which can be exemplified by the famous statement 'Form follows function'. Excluding all unessential elements in design - for example, decoration, this tendency has attained the position of the international style based on the spirit of Bauhause - universality and regularity - in search of geometric order, standardization and rationalization. In Chapter 2-2, I investigated the anthropological viewpoint that modern design started representing culture in a symbolic way including overall aspects of the society - politics, economics and ethics, and its criticism on functionalist design that aesthetic value is missing in exchange of excessive simplicity in style. Moreover, I examined the pluralist phenomena in post-modern design such as kitsch, eclecticism, reactionism, hi-tech and digital design, breaking away from functionalist purism of modern design. In Chapter 3, I analyzed Gestalt Pragnanz in design in a practical way, against the background of design trends. To begin with, I selected mass product design among those for the 20th century products as a target of analysis, highlighting representative styles in each category of the products. For this analysis, I adopted the theory of J. M Lehnhardt, who gradated in percentage the aesthetic and semantic levels of Pragnantz in design expression, and that of J. K. Grutter, who expressed it in a formula of M = O : C. I also employed eight units of dichotomies, according to the G. D. Birkhoff's aesthetic criteria, for the purpose of scientific classification of the degree of order and complexity in design; and I analyzed phenomenal aspects of design form represented in each unit. For Chapter 4, I executed a questionnaire about semiological phenomena of Design Pragnanz with 28 units of antonymous adjectives, based upon the research in the previous chapter. Then, I analyzed the process of signification of Design Pragnanz, founded on this research. Furthermore, the interpretation of the analysis served as an explanation to preference, through systematic analysis of Gestalt and Design Pragnanz in product design of the late 20th century. In Chapter 5, I determined the position of Design Pragnanz by integrating the analyses of Gestalt and Pragnanz in modern and post-modern designs In this process, 1 revealed the difference of each Design Pragnanz in formal respect, in order to suggest a vision of the future as a result, which will provide systemic and structural stimulation to current design.

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A Study on the Emotion Design appeared in Modern Furniture Design -Focused on the analysis of Salone del Mobile 2005, 2006- (현대 가구디자인에 나타난 감성디자인 연구 -2005, 2006 밀라노국제가구박람회를 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.31-38
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    • 2007
  • The most important issue of today in design genre is the comprehensive design that overcomes the limitations of the rational and logical designs of functionalism that has had influences in entire 20th century and encompasses even the emotional aspect of humans. The emotional design factors in furniture designs will be analyzed in order to analyze their effects and values on the consumers of present times. The emotional uses of the patterns with the motive of nature expressing papers, flowers, wood textures, natural phenomena etc as they are and the colors with the vivid feeling of primary colors represent more dynamic and cheerful life style and the designs are characterized by the warm primary colors that give the feeling that the nature has been transferred to the designs as it is. Diverse materials such as leather, fur, fabric and the materials with soft and flexible feeling such as silicone material have been used more widely and they are used as the materials expressing freedom not being formalized. The designs that can produce diverse spaces desired by users by gathering unit modules can be said to be the outcome of the emotional designs combined with the needs of modern peoples that aspire their own designs.

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Primitivism Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대복식에 나타난 원시주의 양식 -원시주의 미술의 조형성과의 비교를 중심으로-)

  • 하지수
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.21
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    • pp.193-206
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    • 1993
  • Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.

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